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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Canute
    Tru-color is acetone based. Wide range of colors aimed at model RRers. Supposed to airbrush nicely.
  2. Canute
    Len, coming along nicely. The washes work well, don't they?
  3. Canute
    Ron, is the exhaust vent going to be permanently installed in a wall? If it will, put some screen in the vent to keep squirrels and other critters out of your building. Don't ask how I know this...
  4. Canute
    Great looking gear, Michael. I'd love a set.
  5. Canute
    Len, looking good and dirty there. An idea for LED lights inside. Look for yellow-glo LEDs, looks like kerosene lights when lit. May have to go to a train shop that stocks Miniatronics products. For tar paper, cut the strips in 3 or so foot widths. That was a typical size for that stuff. Could also paint some weathered black/charcoal gray paint and lay strips of tissue on the paint. Although, it may look like old canvas with the grain of the tissue. Experiment.
  6. Canute
    What the heck is it, Carl? Your pictures of your progress look very good.
  7. Canute
    Good luck with the repairs, Chris. A wood Yamato to go along with Greg and Carl's opuses.
  8. Canute
    A good hobby shop selling decal sheets most likely stocks the stuff. If you've built planes, trains or plastic ships and applied decals, it's in that area. I've filled an opening of about 3/8 inch square. Much bigger and I'd use clear plastics or maybe microscope cover glass.
  9. Canute
    Well done, Mike.
  10. Canute
    If the window panes are small, MicroScale Krystal Kleer. It's a liquid you run around the inside of your window. Put some on a toothpick, slide the pick around the window edges, slowly remove the toothpick and the liquid should fill the space. Practice before you do it on Chaperon.
  11. Canute
    WOW, night and day there. Well done! :)
  12. Canute
    I've seen Ed's work and can tell you his use of this wood is outstanding. His miniature furniture is second to none.
  13. Canute
    I've used this on wooden model RR structures and it hasn't affected the wood. I do recommend that you test the stains on a scrap of the same wood you want to stain. You can also use India inks in denatured alcohol (found in pharmacies or chemist shops) for stains.
  14. Canute
    Well done, Matt. Superb soldering. And working bilge pumps!
  15. Canute
    The Pan Pastels aren't oils. You can wipe them off if the color doesn't get pushed into the wood too deeply. I remember two sets of chalks, one in greys, the other in browns. We scraped or sanded the sticks get quantities of pastel powder to work with. We should start a new topic for this and not highjack Len's log.
  16. Canute
    Len, take a look at Pan Pastels. Here is one site, aimed at modelers versus the fine arts folks: http://modelingcolors.com/ They stock 2 weathering kits for rust & earth and for greys, grime & soot. I think the armor folks discovered them, but many different areas use them now. The site has a how-to video and basic use instructions. Hunt around on the web for best prices. I am just a satisfied user of this product; no financial interest in this company.
  17. Canute
    Len, coal pile looks good. After it's installed, dribble a few stray lumps in front of the pile. Your firemen aren't neat.
  18. Canute
    Len, looking good. You might want to look at doing some chalking of the white stripe and red lettering. This happens as rain washes the upper level of paint down over the underlying paint. Starts from the full color and then tapers and fades as it runs down the vertical. Look at the white chalking under the lettering and boxes on the black tank body. There is a little brown (maybe rust)under the red generator box, but that color may be from an earlier piece of equipment. I doubt the tank it self is rusting. Look at everything in your environment to see all the weathering that occurs. And take pictures to give you actual examples to work from.
  19. Canute
    Jesse, keep on working on getting better. That's job one.
  20. Canute
    No problem, Len. Like most of us say, it's your boat. Do it the way you like. You're having fun! :D
  21. Canute
    Len, the staining is pretty safe; vinegar is a weak acid. I use a similar mix on wood structures; although I've not used baking soda in the mix. Vinegar and very fine steel wool take a few days to make the mixture. Wait longer for darker coloring. The stain is a little more red, since it's iron oxidizing. I'd age the wood somewhat (light stain) and then weather the paint, like Rossi45 says. That's the surface that's worn away. Wouldn't get too crazy with weathering, except on the outsides of the boat. That would have been the hardest part to maintain. Most equipment was fairly well maintained; the engineers and firemen(coal/wood heavers) took great pride in maintaining their engines and related equipment. Think about railroad equipment. Railroad steam locomotives were pretty shiny and well cared for, until the 1950s when they were phased out. The engine crews oiled and polished anything they could reach.
  22. Canute
    Shackles look good, Jack. GrandtLine makes model RR turnbuckles for 1/48 scale cars, cored for .025 wire. http://grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20car%20and%20loco%20detail%20parts/o%20details/o_box_stock_reefer_tank.html You'll have to scroll down to part # 54
  23. Canute
    The gun mounts look good. No headaches working on them is a good thing. I ran into that some years back, building double hung windows for some houses in N scale (1/160). The magnifying visor works a charm.
  24. Canute
    Just be thankful this is brass. I've done some stainless steel PE and you don't get any redos. Your mastery of the Pontos and other brass PE is outstanding, Greg.
  25. Canute
    I've heard of some Southern "bubbas" drinking turpentine, but... Don't eat those potato chips/crisps while you work. Messes up the super glue.

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