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Everything posted by Canute
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Julie Mo, the Titebond III is pretty watery as it comes out of the bottle. It is a water-proof glue, meant for outdoor use. I pour a bit on a plastic sheet and then daub it onto the boards. Like Druxey says, clean up with water and a paintbrush. I'm in the midst of building a 1/24 scale grist mill, complete with a water wheel, for my railroad club's garden railroad. How long are the planks you're gluing up?
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The model railroading community thinks of them as some kind of modeling Taliban. To me, many of their weathering techniques are overdone. Work from photos to do a good job there. Your work is very impressive, Dave. It's unfortunate that the IPMS folk fail to appreciate it. Their loss...
- 962 replies
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- sovereign of the seas
- ship of the line
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Great looking sail, Mobbsie. Take your seamstress out to dinner, soon. And kudoes to Carl/Cog, too.
- 129 replies
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- armed launch
- panart
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Slog, they'll do just fine. Forming the parts requires tons of patience, which you show to a high level. I'm learning lots of small things viewing your photos. Thanks.
- 244 replies
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- borodino
- dom bumagi
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Nice cutting technique there, Slog. Will help with Choctaw.
- 244 replies
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- borodino
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Slog, good thoughts on the various glues out there. I've also tried the yellow glues; they seem to tack up faster than the white glues. With all glues, the trick is to only apply where you need it. I need more practice there. You don't want to see the interiors of some of my railroad builds.
- 244 replies
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- borodino
- dom bumagi
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You may want to look for Canopy Cement - model airplane folks use it to fasten canopies. It appears to be a thickened white glue that dries clear. Holds well and won't mess with your glazing materials.
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- Idea
- Bright Idea
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Slog, I'm going to hang here, too. Your techniques are very handy for this novice.
- 244 replies
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- borodino
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Keith, an airbrush lays down the thinnest coat of paint. The brass, or sometimes stainless steel, needs to be as clean as possible. A white or light gray primer helps, too. Especially for translucent colors like yellows and reds.
- 75 replies
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- scharnhorst
- dragon
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Mick, great idea with the bending station. I've tried Chuck's heat only method and it works well. Your galley looks great.
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- washington
- galley
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Pulling up a chair also. I have a certain fascination for this particular ship.
- 75 replies
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- scharnhorst
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Wow, what cramped conditions! All four of my grandparents came over from Europe in the 1870s and 80s; I hope the conditions had improved by then. They all wanted a shot for their families, so I guess the trip had to happen. Not like jumping on a jet and getting there in hours instead of weeks. Thanks for the history lesson, Frank.
- 649 replies
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- dunbrody
- famine ship
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Best Paint Brush?
Canute replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
That's the cleaner I've been using, Jack. Good stuff. -
Ditto for me Grant. The flooring looks excellent and I really dig the dash and lights. Makes it "pop".
- 339 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft
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Jack, nice little trick there keeping the brass stanchions attached for the inversion. She's looking sweey.
- 250 replies
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- willie l bennett
- model shipways
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jack, your Skipjack is progressing nicely. Well done on those rails and the centerboard rigging.
- 250 replies
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- willie l bennett
- model shipways
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Mike, I've found that with aging eyes, I could only work on smaller scale projects (N-scale double hung and glazed window frames ) for about a half hour. I'd put that down and work on bigger scale projects. And I use an Optivisor & magnifier lights, with extra lighting. It's the small size of the stuff and the heightened concentration. Of course, right now I'm building a 1/24 grist mill for our garden railroad.
- 143 replies
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