Jump to content

Canute

NRG Member
  • Posts

    6,135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Canute

  1. Beautiful job there, Piet. The diorama is exquisite.
  2. Julie Mo, the Titebond III is pretty watery as it comes out of the bottle. It is a water-proof glue, meant for outdoor use. I pour a bit on a plastic sheet and then daub it onto the boards. Like Druxey says, clean up with water and a paintbrush. I'm in the midst of building a 1/24 scale grist mill, complete with a water wheel, for my railroad club's garden railroad. How long are the planks you're gluing up?
  3. The model railroading community thinks of them as some kind of modeling Taliban. To me, many of their weathering techniques are overdone. Work from photos to do a good job there. Your work is very impressive, Dave. It's unfortunate that the IPMS folk fail to appreciate it. Their loss...
  4. Great looking sail, Mobbsie. Take your seamstress out to dinner, soon. And kudoes to Carl/Cog, too.
  5. Slog, they'll do just fine. Forming the parts requires tons of patience, which you show to a high level. I'm learning lots of small things viewing your photos. Thanks.
  6. Nice cutting technique there, Slog. Will help with Choctaw.
  7. Slog, good thoughts on the various glues out there. I've also tried the yellow glues; they seem to tack up faster than the white glues. With all glues, the trick is to only apply where you need it. I need more practice there. You don't want to see the interiors of some of my railroad builds.
  8. Never knew civilian Stratocruisers had jet engines outboard, like the KC-97s
  9. You may want to look for Canopy Cement - model airplane folks use it to fasten canopies. It appears to be a thickened white glue that dries clear. Holds well and won't mess with your glazing materials.
  10. I have an AL Nina in the stash, so I'll be watching your build, Joe.
  11. Slog, I'm going to hang here, too. Your techniques are very handy for this novice.
  12. Keith, an airbrush lays down the thinnest coat of paint. The brass, or sometimes stainless steel, needs to be as clean as possible. A white or light gray primer helps, too. Especially for translucent colors like yellows and reds.
  13. Mick, great idea with the bending station. I've tried Chuck's heat only method and it works well. Your galley looks great.
  14. Pulling up a chair also. I have a certain fascination for this particular ship.
  15. Wow, what cramped conditions! All four of my grandparents came over from Europe in the 1870s and 80s; I hope the conditions had improved by then. They all wanted a shot for their families, so I guess the trip had to happen. Not like jumping on a jet and getting there in hours instead of weeks. Thanks for the history lesson, Frank.
  16. That's the cleaner I've been using, Jack. Good stuff.
  17. Ditto for me Grant. The flooring looks excellent and I really dig the dash and lights. Makes it "pop".
  18. Jack, nice little trick there keeping the brass stanchions attached for the inversion. She's looking sweey.
  19. jack, your Skipjack is progressing nicely. Well done on those rails and the centerboard rigging.
  20. Mike, I've found that with aging eyes, I could only work on smaller scale projects (N-scale double hung and glazed window frames ) for about a half hour. I'd put that down and work on bigger scale projects. And I use an Optivisor & magnifier lights, with extra lighting. It's the small size of the stuff and the heightened concentration. Of course, right now I'm building a 1/24 grist mill for our garden railroad.
×
×
  • Create New...