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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Mike, clean off any paint on the threads for the top. Put a circle of plastic bag material over the mouth of the bottle. Screw the top on and invert the bottle. Use the paint to seal out any air. I've stored Floquil paints for years by doing that.
  2. Cathead, well done. The steamboat looks great. And thank you for showing us a glimpse of history.
  3. I just started to read this today and I'm blown away. Such beautiful workmanship. The carvings are superb! Viele danke.
  4. Like the advice from one of the other threads on this site. Put a nylon stocking down the inlet of your vacuum hose. The itty-bitty parts get caught. Unfortunately, if you're picking up sawdust too, it'll clog up.
  5. Another company from mostly model railroading is Grandt Line. They list nut/bolt/washers, rivets, turnbuckles, hinges and much more: Check them out at: http://grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20details/augmentables.html
  6. George, Dave is located towards the coast. It would take me 6 hours to drive to where he's located.
  7. Interesting tying in the archaeology with your build. Thanks for sharing this.Think I'll follow along.
  8. Greg, go to Ecardmodels.com and look for steam era ships. If you want to read about the actual ships check this site out: http://users.wowway.com/~jenkins/ironclads/ironclad.htm Ecardmodels.com carry American Civil War, European ships and some South American ships, too. They also have loads of other stuff (aircraft, armor, structures), too. The Confederate ships may be a little easier, since they're more flat plates on casements. Some of the Yankee stuff is more rounded (turrets and such) and cutting those parts out is my nemesis. Need multiple sized steel circle templates or a reliable compass with a cutting blade.
  9. Ouch, Jesse! No intelligent fixes for that, short of locking the kitty out of your workshop.
  10. For a much wider selection of decal details check out Archer Fine Transfers: http://www.archertransfers.com/index.html They do rivets, bolt heads, weld lines and many other items. Started to support the Armor folks, but now they do aircraft and model railroad stuff. Check them out. I'm not an owner, but I have used them. They do look good.
  11. Now who would have thunk that? Your first picture was fuzzy enough to not see the actual shape. The second batch was much clearer, but the cap of the main mast? Really? Those picture book instructions do lack a little. I concur with needing extra views since the pictures are tiny, even with good magnification.
  12. Jack, a WAG: maybe the ship's bell? Is there any flare on the narrower end? It's kind of bell shaped, maybe? I stared at the picture for 5 minutes, trying to figure it out. Assuming a fishing boat has a ship's bell. The windlass/capstan handles look like the chain pump cranks on many warships. Look good. :)
  13. Erik, clever ideas with the 2 stands. The up-side down jig looks like your basic 2' x 4".
  14. Back then, those change orders took longer to implement, since all the paperwork and new paints usually moved via surface mail. And then the bases may not have had the correct materials handy to implement the changes. On top of that, the vessel may only get worked on at scheduled intervals. I've read research on the ship's colors during WW II and these changes weren't done very quickly. And having worked for my Uncle Sam more recently, we experienced similar delays with equipment and paint changes. It took four years to get the Viet Nam era paint scheme used on tactical fighters to what some folks called a European scheme. It got rid of the pale gray bellies and wrapped the green and sand colors over the bottoms of our jets. Don't forget, all this stuff is done by the lowest bidder.
  15. Grant, Jack12477 formed some chainplates by curling the brass strips: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11969-marie-jeanne-by-jack12477-artesania-latina-150-scale/page-5 Might that work?
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