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Everything posted by Canute
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Denis, you may want to try Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement. I think it has MEK or Methyl-ethyl ketone. Works best on bare plastic, since we're welding the parts.
- 133 replies
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- jeanne d arc
- heller
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Like Carl says, I'd use a hot iron with a sharp point, unless you have a very small torch. I've only done electrical soldering, so favor rosin core solder. It needs some cleanup. There also acid flux, which requires better cleanups. A big torch might melt away the fine brass PE. I'm sure a lot of guys will fill you in on soldering technique. This is how I'd do it. Tin your soldering iron after cleaning the tip. Put a bit of solder on the tip to tin it. Nice shiny tip means good heat transfer. Clean and flux your joint. Shiny brass, then apply your flux. Apply the heat to the joint, then touch the solder to the joint. Try not to apply the solder to your iron tip. Heat on one side, solder on the other. Move the solder away and check that you get a shiny looking solder joint. If it's not, you made a cold solder joint, which is weak. Reapply heat and have your solder handy. Make sure you get a shiny joint. Clean up the joint; I might dip it in vinegar to remove the rosin and brush clean any excess solder. You may want to practice on some frets before launching into the FuMo 25, 26 and 27.
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Do you prep the PE in any way before painting? Some brass may have a coating that can chip when the parts get bent.
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Spent some time this past weekend working with some weathering tools. A soft lead pencil, say a 4 or 5, can add some definition, like OC said. Also used some watercolor pencils in various shades. Found out that Faber Castell pencils are a little softer than Prismacolor. Black and Burnt Umber are good for dark on light shading. And you can take it off with white vinegar or water. The vinegar will flash off/dry faster.
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Eric, being an ACW Brown Water Navy fan, I'm in, too. Will follow with interest.
- 599 replies
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Like Jack says, gloss coat where you want the decals. Cut the decals as close to the color as you can and put it in some water. The decal slides off and you take a fine implement to lift the decal from the water and place it where you need it. Coat it with Microset and leave it alone. The decal may pucker up; don't touch it. After it dries check for silvering (where air gets trapped under the decal). Prick a few holes in the silvering and reapply the MicroSet. After all traces of silvering are gone, clean up any watermarks and apply a gloss coat.
- 8 replies
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- decal
- weatherring
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Denis, nice work reviving an old kit. I like the various work arounds you've used to correct deficiencies in the fittings.
- 133 replies
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- jeanne d arc
- heller
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A wise man! May you live long and prosper.
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Carl, I suspect they've had their feet and lower legs lopped off to fit the seats. A sharp sprue cutter or whatever Doctor Grant deemed appropriate. Model railroaders do the same thing for populating passenger cars.
- 339 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft
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Eric, same plans, but some folks like to read plans ahead of time to see if they like the kit and for scratchbuilders to purchase and build a ship based on those plans.
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It looks to be a good start. Nice that they've included the strips for the seams. Where did you go in Italy?
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Sopwith F.1 Camel by jablackwell - Model Airways - WOOD
Canute replied to jablackwell's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
John, my sincere condolences for your loss. He's in my prayers. -
Pinta by jct - Shipyard - 1/96 scale - CARD
Canute replied to jct's topic in - Kit subjects built Up to and including 1500 AD
Jay, I'd like to join up and follow along. This build looks pretty straight forward; I'm sure I learn some new techniques. -
WOW, he's a monster, Dan. (German ships were/are termed a he) I'll be in the crew for this one, too. And Happy Birthday, mate!
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Well done, Danny. Excellent work and many nice tutorials. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to your Bismarck build.
- 295 replies
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- amatsukaze
- halinski
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Elijah, your corner jig and plastic polish hit the bullseye. Good work. As far as a plexiglass glue, look for Plastruct Plastweld (white label) or Weldene (orange label). Also Ambroid Proweld (white label). And they will glue Plexiglas or Lucite. Read the labels, these use chloroform as their base. Means they are "hot" or work fast. So work outside; don't want to tick the rest of the family off when using this stuff. Good luck.
- 701 replies
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- phantom
- model shipways
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