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Everything posted by ccoyle
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And that is very typical of Model Shipways designs. You have acquired a useful skill!
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- model shipways
- katy of norfolk
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Welcome aboard! Yes, modeling is a bit of an addiction, but with some professional therapy, most modelers can manage their habit. Ha -- just kidding! Once you are hooked, it's hopeless. 😉
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I agree! I bet there's a lot of orphaned models out there hoping that Mike will stumble upon them. 😉
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Weathering has never been a strong suit of mine. I prefer to leave things in the bright.
- 179 replies
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- shipyard
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Progress for Day 5. Another aspect of this kit that is very card-like is the need to laminate parts. The four stringers in this first photo are each laminated from three parts. And some more false decking. A few more bits need to be added to the hull before planking can start.
- 179 replies
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The Mamoli product line is now produced by Dusek Ship kits. Daniel has made refinements to each kit prior to re-release.
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Nope. The false deck halves will not fit if accidentally reversed.
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Very nice work, Danny. I have the MV Schwan II kit in my stash.
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So, I was in the process of gluing up the interlocking parts of the false deck & hull formers and having a devil of a time trying to get the forward false deck pieces to snug up properly. Then I noticed that there were two deck tabs that had no corresponding slot in the longitudinal former. So first I checked the instructions ... ... and yep, there's supposed to be a slot. But, here's a shot of the deck tab, deflected about 2 mm down, and there's no slot there. Since the deck was already partially glued in, I had to use a ball cutter in my Dremel to remove the tabs. Not a big deal, but kinda strange.
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Hi, Chris. I checked out the site, too. As others have pointed out, it's a new site with no established reputation, and they sell (or at least list) knock-off merchandise. That's enough for us to pull the welcome mat for them at MSW and advise our members to take their hard-earned cash elsewhere. But thanks for bringing the site to our attention! Cheers!
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I agree with the previous posts -- that is a very respectable first model. Welcome to the forum!
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There's no denying, though, that having the plywood pre-cut by laser is the easiest way to cut the stuff. 😉
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And here's the hull skeleton after another evening's work. The kit is designed with pretty tight fit tolerances, as evidenced by my experience with the previously-mentioned misaligned false keel component, which was by only off by about 0.5 mm. Before gluing in bulkheads willy-nilly, I decided to check whether the misaligned part would really affect the positioning of the last bulkhead (#24). It did, so I had to remove a little sliver of wood with a chisel to get the bulkhead to slot in correctly. The end of the false keel itself will be covered over by additional parts later. After correcting that bit, I glued in the bulkheads. The parts have their numbers laser-etched on them, so I removed the entire set from their plywood sheet and prepped them all, so that I could do the gluing of the whole set at one go. Laser-etched tick-marks on the outer edges of mated parts allow for precise alignment. The false deck is only dry-fitted at this point. As Chuck S. will likely attest, this is essentially a card model done in plywood. The construction method is the same as seen in many full-hull card designs. Cheers!
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Hi, Kurtis. As a wee correction, 74s were generally considered 3rd-rates. You are correct about the guns -- heavier guns were carried on the lower deck. There wasn't a standard for the size of guns though, and they varied from one navy to another and over the course of the ships' histories. As a rule of thumb, 74s would have carried 24-32 pounders on the lower gun deck, 18-24 pounders on the upper gun deck, and 6-12 pounders on the forecastle and quarterdecks, although these were often replaced by carronades once those came into use. Cheers!
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New Young Model Builder from Minnesota LOOKING FOR ADVICE
ccoyle replied to Kenna's topic in New member Introductions
I can't speak to the quality of Panart's plans, but Cornwall Model Boats has an excellent reputation within our community. Model Shipways has the Dusek kit on sale now. -
Beginner's build: Bluenose from Amati
ccoyle replied to MichaelHall's topic in New member Introductions
I don't know if you have your heart set on a Grand Banker, but have you checked out the new zulu and fifie kits from Vanguard Models? They're designed for beginners and incorporate all the latest design features. -
Either of those will work, as will a number of other glues such as contact cement. Personally, for such decorations I would use a non-water-based glue such as the contact cement or spray adhesive, simply because water-based glues will tend to warp the paper, though if the strips are small then that shouldn't be much of a problem. I would probably also seal the paper parts with some matte clear spray to give them a bit of protection.
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Beginner's build: Bluenose from Amati
ccoyle replied to MichaelHall's topic in New member Introductions
A schooner with sleek hull lines (i.e. not bluff-bowed) is a great beginner project, but I think that the Amati kit is in 1/100 scale if I recall correctly. Some modelers find that a fiddly scale to work in for wood models. As a new modeler, you would probably find 1/64 scale or larger easier to handle. -
Well, here we are back at it. I decided to skip doing a turn on a card model and instead roll with the wood momentum and go straight to Wütender Hund (hereafter referred to as "WH"). I won't do an unboxing here, as I did a complete review of this kit in the reviews section. It is the first wood offering from the Polish firm of Shipyard, who are well-known for their excellent line of tallship card models. Clare Hess is currently working on a very similar cog model, also from Shipyard -- although its name is different, it is more or less the card version of this kit. So, I didn't make very much progress on Day 1, getting only as far as removing the longitudinal profile former and gluing up the parts that form a false keel. I noticed after the glue had already set that one of the parts is slightly misaligned, so I may have to debond that part and reposition it. One thing to watch out for on Polish kits is that left and right parts are marked L and P, not L and R. L does in fact indicate left, same as in English; to remember that P is right, I always think of it as the Greek letter rho, then it makes perfect sense. As you can see, the box is quite large -- too big for my modeling area. And the exciting work of Day 1. The cutting mat is a little less than 12" wide, so you have an idea of how big the finished model will be. TTFN!
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M-50 Israeli Sherman - FINISHED - MP Models - 1:35 Scale
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Craig, my paternal great-great-grandfather was born and raised in Gaffney here in the Upstate, but was living in Mississippi when the "Late Unpleasantness" broke out. He enlisted in the 9th Mississippi, which was training in the Florida panhandle when he was discharged for "debility." He made his way back to SC and enlisted in the 18th South Carolina; when the army reorganized in 1862, his company elected to join the Palmetto Sharpshooters, with whom he served from Frayser's Farm until The Wilderness, where he was captured and afterwards spent a year as a guest of the Federal Government at Fort Delaware. My maternal 3x-great-grandfather was in the 39th Georgia, captured and paroled at Vicksburg, then fought in the Atlanta campaign until he was wounded (permanently crippled in one arm) and discharged. Ironically, Confederate Memorial Day is still a government holiday in SC, so my wife got this past Monday off, but not me, and she hasn't got a drop of southern blood in her -- unless we're talking about southern Norway. Back to the topic, though -- the Israelis quickly mastered the art of armored desert warfare, and their tactics and skill made their Shermans more than a match for the Egyptian T-34/85s they encountered in the earlier conflicts.
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