ccoyle
-
Posts
9,526 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by ccoyle
-
Hi, William. 1. Use any plastic modeling cement, such as Testors, or CA (cyanoacrylate), e.g. Zap. 2. Just eyeball the thread size, but keep in mind that it's better to err on the narrow side -- looks better on the finished model. 3. The shininess might be due to a releasing agent used in the molding process. It can't hurt to give the parts a wash in mild soapy water, rinse, and dry. 4. There's a wide range of both enamel and acrylic paints available for plastic models. Acrylics are easier to work with, since they are water-based. If there's no painting guide in the kit, then use the box art to get a rough idea of colors to use. EDIT: I see Canute beat me by one minute! Cheers,
-
This is such a commendable task on your part. I wish you every success with it! Ich hoffe, dass es bei euch beide alles gut gelungen wird! Tschuess! -
We've had one or two build logs started for models from this company. Try searching for Mariefried or Bohuslan in the kit logs section.
-
Hi, Auggie. I edited your log title and added the "- SMALL" extension to it. Don't be alarmed -- "small" in this case indicate a model of a small craft, not a small model. Cheers!
-
Feeling overwhelmed is normal; eventually you'll have to choose a technique and have a go at it -- maybe you'll like it, but maybe you won't. All part of the learning curve. For deck caulking -- yes, you can use pencil. If you do a search on "caulking", you'll find many threads whose authors use a variety of methods. Testing your selected method on a piece of scrap and applying your varnish to check for possible smearing would be wise. Plank shift patterns varied by nation and time period. Only the most learned viewers of your finished model will notice whether you used the correct pattern or not. The three butt shift was typical for English ships of that period. The nails you refer to are actually wooden dowels, and the task is called treenailing; search that term and you'll find lots of suggestions. Modelers who use treenailing can either use actual treenails (or trunnels), like the toothpick method you mentioned, or simulate them. Done well, treenailing adds a lot to the look of a model; done poorly, then not so much. Personally, I do not do treenailing on my models, because on actual vessels they weather along with the planking and are virtually impossible to see at stand-off viewing distances. Lots of decisions for you to make -- don't sweat it too much, and have fun!
- 6 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- deck planking
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Ah, but tidbits like this are exactly why we encourage people to come in out of the cold and become registered users!
-
Using the search feature here at MSW I obtained 31 results on the phrase "cast your anchor". Seems they have a hit-or-miss sort of track record and respond best to phone calls rather than email.
-
Fantastic models!
-
Mike makes an excellent point. You'll run into some other situations with this kit where the suggested build sequence will need some careful consideration with regards to later structures and additions.
- 126 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- fly
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
This tid-bit of info might be too late for you, but those "lateral planks" are a kit feature that is designed to divvy up the planking into zones -- supposed to be easier for beginners. They're not a historical feature. You can leave them out if you want to.
- 126 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- fly
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Welcome, Gunnar. The short answer to your question is yes, all of those methods will work. To some degree you will need to experiment and see which method you like best. The porosity of the wood you use for decking will affect how well those techniques that require a liquid medium (e.g. paint, markers) will work. Holly is a popular wood for decking, but since I tend to stick with kit materials, I will let some of our more knowledgeable members give you advice on that topic. Cheers,
-
You would think, but compared to La Couronne, Wasa, or Wappen von Hamburg, it is in fact lower-end for a European kit. Still, think of all those niggling little design and/or manufacturing errors as opportunities for creative problem solving!
-
Based on my very limited experience with Corel (one kit -- woo-hoo!), this is not likely to be the last difficulty you encounter. Of course, such problems exist in just about any kit, but Corel in particular seem to put less effort into their lower-end offerings compared to their top-of-the-line models.
-
Bit out of the way for me, but let me know if you ever do a show somewhere on this side of the pond.
-
Feedback will likely do little good. The reason for that is that these companies tend to do a single print run of the product, and when that is sold out, that's pretty much all she wrote. Off the top of my head I don't know of any instances in which Halinski has done a reprint. They do, though, offer corrected parts, but these are printed as part of some subsequent offering of a different subject. Not exactly convenient, but that's the way they do it.
-
Hi, Quincy, and welcome. The San Juan Nepomuceno is a substantial undertaking! Right away I can see some potential for problems with your planking technique. Fortunately, we have some resources here that can help you out. Check here to find some PDF planking tutorials, and be sure to start a build log so that you can get some more tips, advice, and encouragement. I hope this turns out to be an enjoyable hobby for you for many years to come. Cheers!
-
Kopeikin, The Swan-class were English ship-rigged sloops of the late 18th century. The Fly and Pegasus models offered by Victory models are of this class, though in 1/64 scale. 1/48 is the scale in which many admiralty board models were built.
- 6 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- swan
- sixth rate
- (and 4 more)
-
Normally we don't allow topic bumping, but I think this topic merits an exception. I edited the title to hopefully entice a few more nibbles for you.
-
Yep, these are great kits, and sadly Midwest is no longer making them. Our loss.
-
Another trick I used for tracking parts is to separate numbered parts from their sheets and sort them into zip lock bags, numbers 1-50 in one bag, 51-100 in another, etc. Works for people who dread spreadsheets. :-)
-
Yep. Thanks for fixing!
-
Sunbeki by palandoken - FINISHED - 1/60
ccoyle replied to palandoken's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Merhaba Adam! Bu harika bir gemi modeli! Görüntüleri bizimle paylaştığınız için teşekkür ederiz. Eğer yapabilirsem, bu sadece bir ingilizce forum olduğunu hatırlatmak isterim. Google gibi bir çevrimiçi çevirici kullanabilirsiniz (bu, bu mesaj için yaptığım şey). Mükemmel olmak zorunda değil. Anlam yeterince açık olacak. Şerefe! -
MS Katy of Norfolk kit issues and parts replacement
ccoyle replied to kearnold's topic in Wood ship model kits
Welcome to the world of kit-bashing, even if entering unwillingly! Even many of the newer POF Model Shipways kits were designed so that much of what would have been included as pre-made parts in a typical Euro-kit has to be made from scratch in the MS kit. I can tell you from experience that that was certainly true for the POF version of Katy. Have no fear -- you can do this!- 14 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- schooner
- katy of norfolk
- (and 4 more)
-
Balsa in Shipmodels
ccoyle replied to F24Steve's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yep, what Russ said. I'd be interested to see how your experiment unfolds.
Our Emblem ®
