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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. The "like" button seems inadequate for a model of this quality. Amazing work indeed, sir!
  2. I don't think it is too much detail, especially since you are the first to post a log for the sharpie here. I, for one, am enjoying watching your progress.
  3. I think I misread this when I saw it earlier. I'm not sure exactly what you mean here. All planking requires a degree of spiling, which is the process used to shape the planks so that they will fit the complex curvature of the hull. If you attempt to plank an entire hull without spiling, as your post suggests you wish to do (hope I'm wrong about that), you will run into frustration and failure for certain. As another option for hull planking, there is a method described in Frank Mastini's book Ship Modeling Simplified. As the title suggests, Mastini's method is a simplified one compared to actual practice and is designed specifically with beginning modelers in mind. You may be able to get your hands on a copy through your local library.
  4. Hmmm. Hope you get this sorted out. This is one of Chris Watton's early designs for Caldercraft, and you can certainly see how more modern designs, including Chris's later efforts, have evolved in the direction of creating sturdier substructures.
  5. Hello, Adrie. We have a few enthusiastic card modelers in our ranks, including me. What will be your first project?
  6. Just curious about what kit this is (ship and kit manufacturer) for and if it might be possible to post a photo of the relevant section of the instructions or get a quote. I'm wondering if something might be getting lost in translation. Also, the problem you are describing, as I'm understanding you, is a normal part of the construction of certain areas along the hull and requires the use of planks called stealers. I'm pretty sure your book should describe the technique for those at some point. Good luck!
  7. Reminds me of an article I read many years ago about a master knife maker in Japan who rejected one out of every three blades that he forged. The mark of a true craftsman is to not be satisfied with substandard work. I'm not a master craftsman myself ... maybe someday.
  8. Hello, I am glad to see that you have checked back in again. I don't know if you have seen this finished build log for a Scottish Maid (clickable link) completed by another member, but I think you may find it very helpful as you work along. Other finished build logs can also be great learning tools, even if they are not of your particular kit. Regarding support methods, I'm another one of those members who has done his wooden hulls in his lap. Probably not everyone's cup of tea, but it has worked for me so far. Take care!
  9. Very interesting, and I hope we will eventually get to see how she performs on the water. Cheers!
  10. Not sure what you mean by "black rather than blue". As others have noted, content is added rapidly to this site, and your posts, which were made in quick succession, may have gotten lost in the shuffle. I assure you that no one was deliberately ignoring you. However, deciding after less than 24 hours that the site is unsupportive and unencouraging seems like a bit of a rush to judgment.
  11. No problem -- just wanted to be sure you got what you were actually looking for! Cheers!
  12. One of our sponsors, Chesapeake Light Craft, is currently offering free shipping on their scale model kits. These kits are scaled-down versions of their full-size boat kits. A couple have been featured in build logs here on MSW, and they turned out very nice. Check them out!
  13. I'm sure I'm not the only person wondering what "coming" is. Perhaps you meant "coaming"? Or maybe "grating"? If the latter, then yes, you can buy pre-cut strips that can be cut to the proper size. Most model ship suppliers carry them. In Oz, you can get them from Modellers Shipyard. https://www.modelerscentral.com/fittings/gratings/
  14. Very few of us do on our first model! Far more important is whether you make it to the finish line or not.
  15. Your work on the piping and wiring boggles my mind!
  16. Hello, Tomek. Fantastic finish! I didn't think to ask about it earlier, but I assumed at first that this was a Shipyard kit, but then I remembered that they usually publish in 1/96 scale rather than 1/100. Could you fill us in on the publisher of this kit? Cheers!
  17. Speaking of Paper Shipwright, I see that David has revamped his web site. It is much improved in both look and function. AND (best part) he has increased the number of free models!
  18. Drifting a little off-topic here, but I had a distant cousin on the Samuel B. Roberts DE-413 at Samar.
  19. You haven't really "arrived" in this hobby until you stab/slice/impale/gouge yourself with some sharp instrument.
  20. Just out of curiosity, Jack ... I have often thought that this sort of smaller plastic project is the way to go for someone looking to get into the plastic + aftermarket details action. How much did your kit, PE details set, and PE tool set you back? And will this be your first time working with these media?
  21. Is this a double-planked hull? If so, then also keep in mind that what you're adding there is not the true garboard plank -- it's just the substructure upon which to add the 2nd layer of planking. That's where you'll need to pay close attention to actual practice, if that's your goal.
  22. One possibility would be to grind a chisel blade for a hobby knife down to the plank width. Run the blade edge across a permanent marker and then use it to gently stamp a butt joint between planks. The amount of ink transferred would be very small and shouldn't bleed badly.
  23. These are really fantastic looking boats and a great option for folks who don't want to go the scratch route for replacing off-the-shelf kit boats. Great job!
  24. I had the 1/200 Orel card model of Retvizan at one point, but decided to part with it when my stash needed thinning. Orel makes some great models, but their after-market detail sets are PE brass, and I prefer to work with the laser-cut card detail sets produced by HMV.
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