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ccoyle

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  1. The short answer to that question is "yes"! Gun barrels can be rolled from paper, scratch-built from other media, or in some cases purchased as after-market accessories in the form of turned brass or aluminum barrels. Generic fittings such as railings and ladders are available as laser-cut or PE sets, and kit-specific detail sets are also available, usually including fiddly bits such as small armament, davits, and such.
  2. 1/250 seems to be the most common scale in Germany, the UK, and the US, while 1/200 is the usual scale in Eastern Europe. 1/400 and 1/350 are also not unusual (JSC has a substantial line of 1/400 kits), and 1/100 is common for smaller vessels. Some card modelers prefer to work in a single scale and will scale kits up or down with a scanner (anyone wishing to do this, though, should keep in mind that scanning a model and then selling the original is tantamount to piracy).
  3. UPDATED JULY 2024 How would you like try building a model for free? Not only that, but how would you like to have as many attempts at completing it as you need without buying a replacement. One of the beauties of card modeling is that you can do exactly that -- build your first model for free, or at least pretty close to free. Many card model designers and publishers offer one or more free model kits. These usually come in the form of a downloadable PDF file. You simply download the file and print the kit on appropriate card stock. Technically the kit isn't completely free, since you supply the printer, paper, and ink, but you probably already have these on hand. One thing to keep in mind when considering a downloadable model is that almost all designs from anywhere other than the U.S. are formatted for A4-size paper. Occasionally designers will make their models available in 8.5" x 11" format, but this is the exception rather than the rule. U.S. modelers will need to scale their models to fit 8.5" x 11" or print the full-size pages in multiple pieces. The latter option wastes some paper and ink on redundant parts. With a free model, if you ruin it during construction, you're not out of a lot of money. Plus, you can simply reprint one or more pages and be right back in action. A WORD OF CAUTION!! Many unscrupulous vendors scan commercially available card model kits and then host the files at third party file sharing sites. Such are not 'free models'. They've been stolen. DO NOT PATRONIZE SUCH SITES! Models obtained from such sites are pirated and thus violate MSW's site guidelines. Besides, designing card models isn't a lucrative business. When you buy card models from legitimate sources, you help out our designer friends, who are often fellow modelers as well as designers. So where can one download some free models? Here are some sites to check out: Models 'n' Moore: This site offers a number of designs by the late Magnus Morck, mostly American Civil War gunboats. Paper Shipwright: Several free models of both warships and working boats. Give them a visit! Back to Part I: What is a card model? On to Part III: Shopping for Card Models
  4. UPDATED JULY, 2024 So what exactly is a “card model”? A card model, or paper model, is simply a model made primarily out of paper. Many modelers are surprised to learn that a ship model can be made from humble paper, but paper as a modeling medium has a long history. During World War II, paper was one of the few resources not heavily regulated due to the war effort. As a result, paper models enjoyed a brief peak in popularity, even in America. After the war, plastic model kits began to take over the market. Paper model kits eventually become scarce, except in the former East Bloc countries. Communism didn't offer much as a system of government, but it did preserve card modeling as an art form, because plastic models were prohibitively expensive. When the Cold War thawed, commerce started flowing between East and West, including CAD technology. Our card modeling friends in Eastern Europe were quick to apply computer-aided drafting to the art of designing card models. As a result, an ever-increasing number of card models became available with better artwork, more detail, and tighter fit tolerances. For the most part, the hobby is still dominated by designers and publishers from the East. Poland, in particular, is home to some of the preeminent publishing houses, including GPM, Modelik, JSC, Orlik, Maly Modelarz, and Kartonowy Arsenal. Germany is another leading producer of card models, with HMV, Moewe-Verlag, and J. F. Schreiber being some of the better-known publishers. Paper has a number of selling points as a modeling medium. Chief among these is that card kits are relatively cheap. The fact that most paper kits can still be purchased for under $20 US, even in 2024, makes them attractive candidates for modelers with small budgets. Paper Shipwright of the UK, for example, offer 44 ship designs in their catalog, none of which has a price tag greater than US$16. Of course, just as for wood or plastic kits, after-market additions can push the price of a card model project up considerably. But even with the cost of laser-cut or photo-etched details thrown in, a card model costing over US$100 is rare. In addition to being inexpensive, paper is versatile. With careful manipulation it can be molded into almost any three-dimensional shape. A third advantage of card models is that they are almost always pre-colored. The color of the finished model is printed right on the paper. Modern graphic design programs allow designers to produce card model kits with exceptionally realistic weathering. Painting or coloring of a card model is usually limited to coloring the edges of cut parts to hide seams. Finally, card models require very few tools to get started. Most people already have the basic cutting and gluing supplies in their house somewhere. One of the most compelling reasons to try card modeling is the wow factor. A card model kit that starts as a set of flat, printed sheets can be transformed into a stunning finished model. There is a learning curve, of course, but hearing someone say, “I can’t believe that’s made out of paper!” upon viewing your finished card model never gets old. An excellent one-stop site to see a variety of completed card models is the gallery at kartonowki.pl. Enjoy! Continue to Part II: Start for FREE!
  5. Hi! I see the title of this thread has grabbed your attention. I admit I have a shameless reason for starting this series, and that is to raise the profile of card/paper as a modeling medium here at MSW. Over the years here and at MSW 1.0 a number of people have expressed an interest in trying their hand at a card model, and that's what I hope you will do after reading this series of posts. My goal is to describe the building of a simple card ship model in sufficient detail that upon reading it, anyone can say, "Gosh, I can do that!" And then, perhaps, you will actually go forth and do that! Today's installment, Part I, is a very brief description of card models. As subsequent parts are added, I will edit this post to keep the Table of Contents up-to-date. So, sit back, enjoy the series, and seriously consider taking a trip to the Dark Side of ship modeling! TABLE OF CONTENTS Part I: What is a card model? Part II: Start for FREE! Part III: Shopping for Card Models Part IV: Tools & Other Supplies Part V: Building V108 - The Hull Part VI: Building V108 - The Superstructure Part VII: Building V108 - Armament Part VIII: Building V108 - Miscellaneous Bits
  6. I wasn't even aware they had this kit out. You should do an in-the-box review when it arrives.
  7. That said, let's get this thread back on topic, shall we? If anyone wishes to further pursue the discussion of 3D printing in the hobby, please start up a new thread. Now, back to Chris and his updates!
  8. My vote is for HMS Shannon. She's a Leda-class frigate with historical significance on both sides of the pond (albeit for opposite reasons).
  9. I built the Corel Flying Fish. The only kind thing I can say about it is that I finished it, albeit modified (see here). The fittings were deplorable -- a mishmash of off-the-shelf items that often bore little or no resemblance to any real-life structures. I get the sense that with Corel, you get what you pay for, i.e. more expensive kits are better products.
  10. Adam, I think you got the essence of it correct when you spoke of the question of how much as opposed to what is required for a model. Planking techniques for a cutter are the same as for a ship-of-the-line, but the SOL has much more to do. Same thing for masting, rigging, guns, etc. Some of the skill levels mentioned on kit boxes are questionable, to say the least. Model Shipways' Kate Cory, for example, is described on the box as an ideal first model. Excuse me? Kate Cory is square-rigged, coppered, has a ton of deck furniture, and includes four fiddly little whaleboats. In my book, that's a challenge for any modeler, much less a beginner. To me, the main point is, does a kit include enough elements to make success likely, i.e. detailed instructions, low parts count, pre-cut or pre-formed components, minimal tricky elements and such. Based on those criteria, I have always held Midwest Products kits to be as near fool-proof as beginner's kits can be. Fortunately, we live in an age where even more complex models can be tackled by beginners thanks to some manufacturers paying more attention to comprehensive instructions, newer design techniques, and of course, access to info at sites such as MSW. But for anyone considering one of those newer designs, I would still advise along the lines of "less is more", as in "more likely to be completed". Cheers, Chris
  11. Jason, the upgrade kit consists in large measure of bits that were included in the later Pegasus kit. There are a few minor differences between the two kits, one being the manner in which the quarterbadges are constructed, if I remember correctly. It may be some time before I have any updates -- the main reason I'm not building anything at the moment is that it turns out my wife is allergic to many of the paints and adhesives I use. Still working on a solution for this.
  12. Belco et al, The Black Pearl being Disney's intellectual property, any plans or kits of her must be properly licensed. Since the linked plans in a previous post were hosted at a Japanese-language site, MSW staff cannot assess the legitimacy of those plans, thus the link has been removed. Kind regards, Chris
  13. Chris, If you are looking for some more helpful instructions, you will not find them in that particular kit. Caldercraft instructions have grown more comprehensive over the years, but the Endeavour is one of their early releases. You could try one of their newer releases, such as Badger or Pickle. Model Shipway's Syren, designed by our own Chuck Passaro, also has very detailed instructions. On the other hand, interest in your subject goes a long way in overcoming difficulty, so if you have your heart set on Endeavour, the Caldercraft edition is probably the best offered, and there are resources available here to get you through the build, such as the planking tutorial in the Ship Modeler's Database. Regards,
  14. Chuck, if you enter "Fair American" in the search window, you will find four build logs currently in progress. Good luck with your model!
  15. A kit from Russia, or a Russian kit? There are some legitimate Russian kit designs on the market. We had at least one posted on the old site, and it looked very nice. Also some nice kits coming out of Croatia as well.
  16. I advise NEVER to start a model that doesn't appeal to you -- unless you never intend to finish it. Passion for your subject goes a long way in giving impetus to overcoming challenges during the build. Cheers!
  17. I hope your son keeps up with the modeling. I tried to get my son to have a go at it, but it didn't take. We have other shared interests, just not ship building. Oh, well! Oh, and I loved building in 1/700 back in the day.
  18. Robert, your model looks absolutely splendid! It makes a very strong argument in favor of something I wish kit manufacturers would do, namely offer packages that consist of only the hull former set. Your upgrades are a dramatic improvement on the basic kit, and as you said earlier in this thread, had you known about the existence of pre-milled wood, you would have used that for the entire hull. Seems like a simple enough proposition, doesn't it? Cheers!
  19. All the kits you named are good kits. Badger would be a little easier, of course, having only two masts. The difference in price between Pegasus and Fly is that the former kit includes a number of extra details that are not included in the latter (Fly came off the production line first). Those extra bits can be purchased as a separate upgrade kit for Fly. Otherwise the two kits are virtually the same. Cheers!
  20. So far, all the Snake builds on the forum look like really nice models. This one appears to continue that record. Cheers!
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