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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Whoa! I didn't realize at first just how large this model is going to be.
  2. This looks to be a decor piece produced in SE Asia. It bears a very slight resemblance to the Swedish warship Vasa, and when I say 'slight', I mean very, very slight. Understand first that these models are mass produced with little regard to the actual form of the ship being modeled. So, for example, the rigging on the model does not conform to actual practice. A lot of ship modeling references will be of limited use in this instance, since scale modelers are generally trying to imitate actual practice. A more general guide to ship models, such as zu Monfeld's Historic Ship Models, might give you a rough idea on how to fix up the rigging. Cannons and other bits can be purchased from ship modeling supply outfits such as Model Expo or Bluejacket Shipcrafters. As to replacing the carved figures, they are obviously hand-carved, so the only way to replace them with something similar is to carve them yourself, and that's no simple task. Good luck to you!
  3. Just remember that any kind of chip board is murder on #11 blades. Another alternative is to laminate regular card sheets together using spray adhesive. A tad less sturdy, but easier on blades and easier to cut.
  4. Yes, you should have fun with this. I have always described Midwest models as being just about as close to fool-proof as a beginner's kit can be.
  5. I can vouch for the quality of the 1/100 HMCS Agassiz. It builds into a very impressive model, especially for fans of the The Cruel Sea.
  6. Can't help you on that one. I've only done one full-hull ship (the Modelik 1/100 HMCS Agassiz), and that was ages ago.
  7. Etna -- then you are truly off the beaten path! I grew up in Humboldt. Used to do a bit of backpacking and fishing in the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountain Wilderness. (Apologies for hijacking Clare's log!!)
  8. So pleased to see someone finally attempting this project! Of course, you already have some experience in this medium, so I expect this one will turn out fine. Enjoy!
  9. Danny, in card model parlance, the 'spikes' are called 'petals'. They are one of the hardest bits to get just right. Nice work!
  10. Bob, check out these builds by Doris. I think Clare and I would agree that next to her work, our models are "not worthy"!
  11. Sapperred1, have a look at our card modeling tutorial. It's not a sailing ship, but it is a free model, and completing some or all of the tutorial will give you a good grasp of the basic card modeling skills.
  12. Oh, Danny, I wish you well on the gap touch-ups. That is something I have not had great success with. The main issue I think is that paints, even though they may be made with a blend of different pigment powders, still give the appearance of being a single, solid color. The printed colors, OTOH, are the result of a four-color printing process, and the perceived colors (such as IJN gray or anti-fouling red) are a trick of the eye. Touch-up paints in my experience never quite match the nuanced shades present in four-color printing. It's part of the reason I prefer waterline models. Nevertheless, I hope yours comes out great.
  13. Ditto what Mark said. Just think of "likes" as people who are enjoying your work but don't feel like they have anything significant to add to the discussion at that point. If you have a general question about some aspect of the hobby (planking techniques, for example), you can try asking your question in the relevant area of the ship modeling techniques forum.
  14. Welcome, Ed. You have a very large task ahead of you, and I wish you the very best of luck with it. Having a personal connection with it will definitely help as a motivating factor. Have plenty of patience! Be sure to start a build log (see instructions here); when you get to the purple words part, use the word RESTORATION in your title. We have several members who are experts in this aspect of the hobby. Cheers!
  15. Halinski are among the very few designers who routinely apply weathering to their designs. It makes a big difference in the appearance of the finished product.
  16. Tiny paper tubes can easily be replaced with styrene rod. Good luck on your model!
  17. Danny, I'm having the same issue with my current Halinski build as well. Thankfully, it's only four pages of parts. I understand the need to shuffle parts around to economize on paper, but it really does seem like at least some of the smaller parts have plenty of room to be placed in a more logical spatial order.
  18. This is actually MSW 2.0. If you've been away for a few years, then you probably missed the Great Crash a couple years back. All the content was lost. Hard to tell by looking around now, isn't it?
  19. For those that are tempted to try paper but would prefer to have more of the fiddly parts in the form of after-market detail sets, you have some good choices out there. Orel, out of the Ukraine, has probably the largest selection of 1/200 pre-Dreadnoughts (and other ships of that era) of any publisher around, and they have an extensive offering of laser-cut formers, PE detail sets, and turned brass barrels. Click here to visit their web site. I have ordered direct from them once before with no problems. The German firm HMV publishes in 1/250 and has a good selection of ships from the Kaiser's Navy. Their details sets are in laser-cut card, which is much easier to work with than brass or nickel-silver, since the parts don't require painting. Their web site is here. There are several eBay shops in different countries that carry HMV products. I have found this a convenient way to buy here in the U.S. There are other publishers with pre-Dreadnoughts in their inventories, but Orel and HMV have the two largest one-stop offerings. As Danny did, it is wise to start with a relatively simple model if you've never worked in card before, as it has its own learning curve, but it is definitely a fun medium to work in.
  20. It is true that there is a bit of a wood bias on this forum, but that's not by design. We encourage modeling in just about any medium, and by posting here you help diversify the content. Refusing to post because of a perception that 'no one notices' plastic models only helps to reinforce that perception. Cheers!
  21. You are now a certified card-carrying member of the card-modeling cohort!
  22. It's one of those "rank has its privileges" things. Shoot me a private message with the new name and I'll fix it for you.
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