ccoyle

The broken tip of a fiberglass fishing rod made perfect turnbuckles for one of my models.

I knew you were from Jersey, Chuck, but it was novel nonetheless to hear the accent for the first time. (Notice that's a smiley face, not a laugh-y face.)

I would be leery of one. First of all, for me personally, I would hate the pistol grip. That just seems like it would be a much less precise way of maneuvering the tool versus either a grip-less version or something like a Dremel Flex-Shaft. Second, the reason why it probably gets mixed reviews is because it's made in China, and unfortunately Chinese-made rotary tools have a long record of mixed-bag performance. There's a reason why rotary tools are almost universally referred to as 'Dremel tools' - because Dremel set the standard by which such tools are judged.

My first two wooden models were Midwest kits, first the lobster smack followed by the Chesapeake Bay flattie. Midwest, IMO, makes the nearest thing to a foolproof beginner's kit.

Discussing instructions can be a bit of a quagmire, because with few exceptions, the instructions from any one manufacturer are not all up to the same standard. The one exception I know of is Midwest; their instructions are extremely thorough, but their kits are not traditional POB kits. Some manufacturers, like AL and OcCre, rely heavily on photo-illustrated guides. We have mentioned many times on MSW how Caldercraft instructions evolved over time, from spartan to more detailed. And, as mentioned, MS instructions, are sort of cookie-cutter in style - plus, they usually assume a considerable degree of prior knowledge on the part of the builder. The exception to the MS instructions are, of course, those written by Chuck, which are very detailed. By all means, if instructions are important, avoid the big Italian boys (Corel, Amati, Panart, etc.) like the plague - their translated instructions are usually laughable. The exception to that rule is Amati's Victory Models line, whose instructions are written by their in-house designer, Chris Watton, a native English-speaker. But, to be truthful, it is really not as essential these days to have exhaustive instructions as it might have been in days past. The two biggest challenges to a new POB builder are 1) fairing and planking a hull and 2) rigging. You completed the Jolly Roger, so you probably already have experience with rigging. That leaves building the hull - and there are considerable resources for the novice here at MSW in the form of planking tutorials (available on the NRG main page) and build logs. To me, a larger issue to consider when choosing a first POB kit is not necessarily the instructions, though those are nice, but rather choosing a subject that is likely to ensure success. The KISS principle really applies here - a less complex hull, less planking, less rigging, and less guns will all make a first POB project more readily achievable. And nothing will breed success like success. So take a look at some of the kits of smaller vessels with relatively simple rigs, e.g. cutters, schooners, et al. And then have fun with it! EDIT: Don't be a hard-sell on small kits! For an extra, and rewarding challenge, try super-detailing one of the smaller kits. Take a look at what some of our members have done with Caldercraft's Sherbourne, for example.

Brian, the scoring is not deep - just through the outermost layer of ply.

Thanks, SG, for adding these early-phase photos. Ah, that brings back memories. Yes, I think I even still have this model around somewhere - oh, yes, there it is over in my display cabinet, still looking like it did three years ago. Well, no need to comment much on the photos, as all the newer build logs chronicle these early steps of the build process. The only things I will mention, for the sake of new Fly builders, are 1) notice the deck planks beneath the forward hatch - that deck shows on the finished model, and the instructions don't mention any deck planking; 2) the paper forward screen bulkhead template (no screen bulkheads are provided for in the kit); and 3) the scoring on the plywood gunport pattern - scoring the outside of the curve on the patterns make them much easier to bend. Cheers,

You can throw them in my current ('current'? really??) build log, if you like. Afterwards, I can add some commentary.

Here's the list of links to Fly build logs. The last one is by some doofus who started his almost nine years ago and keeps letting other projects get in the way of finishing it. Martin W Vitus aliluke Padeen DiKri ccoyle

I use a headband magnifier almost 100% of the time at my bench now - at the ripe old age of 51.

Have you considered looking into paper (card) models? There's far more kits of merchant vessels available in card than in any other medium. Card is also probably the cheapest medium to work in - something to consider on a student budget.

Galo, Ask yourself: 1) What kind of ships am I interested in? 2) How much room do I have to work in? 3) How much room will I have to display my finished model? 5) How much do I have to spend (for both kit and tools)? Answering these few questions will give us a much better idea on what to recommend. Regards,

Laughing Whale was purchased by Bluejacket years ago. As stated, some of their designs were/are available under the Midwest brand. Many of the small craft in the Bluejacket lineup are Laughing Whale designs. The previous owner had stated that those designs would be updated over time, but I don't know how many actually were. To my knowledge, the current ownership does not intend to continue with the updating process. I once owned a Laughing Whale kit of the Herreshoff 12.5 - a decent enough kit, but the instructions were nowhere near on par with Midwest. But, unlike Sterling, Bluejacket is still in business, so if you get stuck on a Blue Jacket/Laughing Whale kit, you can probably get assistance from Bluejacket's help desk.

I happen to be reading at the moment Ghost Ship by James Hornfischer. The book chronicles the events of the Battle of the Java Sea and the Battle of Sunda Strait.

Fixed. Looks like you're off to a great start. Are you sure this is your first build??

Fantastic finished product, Jim!

Am I correct in assuming the kit came packaged in a tube? That'd be a first for me.

A waterline marker of some kind is pretty essential for marking waterlines. I have the Amati version, and it does the job well enough. But if you are the enterprising sort, you can make your own, which is what I did for my first couple of models. I got the Amati version because my home-builts weren't very durable.

For tools advice, click here. Have a look at the other resources available while you're there. Be sure to open a build log when you start your model -- that's the best way to get advice and encouragement. Good luck with your project!

I don't carve myself, but I can pretty much guarantee that basswood is not the ideal wood for carving, precisely because it is too soft. It makes great boomerangs, though.

Hello, Jase. The Dandy II is a kit once manufactured by the long-since defunct Dikar company. Billing Boats, Soclaine, and Artesania Latina all still make kits of the same type of vessel. The AL kit can be had new for well under US $100. Given the age of your kit and the availability of newer, inexpensive kits, you might be looking at around US $50 for yours. If you wish to have a crack at selling it, you can post it in the Traders & Dealers section after reading the seller's guidelines. Cheers,

Lionfish, Sanding the hull to its final shape will require, as you have noted, progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Remember, each grade will remove some wood, so don't wait until until you have the correct shape before switching, otherwise you'll end up removing too much wood. Regards,

Small world - my grandparents lived in Stockton and had a loquat tree in their yard. I would think that in Georgia one could keep an eye out for old orchards being rotated out.

Also have a look at Bluejacket for more merchant/historic sailing vessels.

Any of those ships you list is going to be a challenge to finish within a year. As for Caldercraft instructions, the comment about "as good as you can get" certainly does not apply to their early kit offerings. They only started producing detailed instructions on later kits, and the only large model from that period is HMS Victory; even with that one I'm not sure about the instructions. Hope you find what you're looking for!