russ

Ron:

I guess I took what I did on a drafting board (self taught draftsman) and began doing it in the CAD program. I have not gotten into 3D, although it sounds fascinating. I think the 2D three view fairing process is something in my comfort zone.

Russ

I have been using CAD for about 10 years. I spent years before that drawing by hand, using pencil and vellum. While CAD allows for a neater and more accurate drawing, there is no substitute the hard work of fairing. I use waterlines, buttock lines, and diagonals to make sure that the hull is faired. It is a tedious process of going back and forth from body sections to sheer profile to half breadth, over and over, checking waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals. Move a little here, move a little there, go back and recheck, re-measure, look at the lines, and then when you are really certain that it all looks good, save and walk away, then come back tomorrow and check it again.

One book that I found very useful was Howard Chapelle's Boatbuilding. One chapter takes you through the layout and lofting, step by step of a small sailing craft. I also got a lot from reading Underhill's Plank on Frame Models volume 1. There are other books out there, but those are two of my favorites.

Russ

Your metal work is very nice. The pumps are amazing. Well done.

Russ

Your bow sprit and spritsail yard look good. Nice work.

Russ

The deadeyes and lanyards look good. Nice work. Final tensioning later is a good idea. Things are likely to move around a bit between now and then.

Russ

I will be starting a build log in the next week or so for a Biloxi fishing lugger. Almost ready to make some sawdust.

Russ

Give it a try and see what you get. I used oak and maple and I had decent results.

Russ

So long as you can find some close grained material, maple should be okay.

Russ

Steve:

Your model is coming along well. Nice work.

Basswood is soft enough that it is liable to split. Any wood might split because you are making a piece in which some part of it will be have to shaped/sanded across the grain. That is what you having trouble with. A harder wood like cherry or boxwood will be less likely to split. Mahogany and walnut will most likely not work well as they are rather open grained. Beech would work, as will most other close and fine grained nut woods.

Years ago I made a scratch built cross section model and used crooks from smaller tree limbs to make my knees. It worked out very well and looked much more realistic. Without a table saw to slab off the thickness you need, it might not work for you.

Russ

Ken:

The deck details look great. The rigging details are very nice. Great work.

Russ

The fascia will look very good. Nice shape.

Russ

The yard, sail, and rigging look really good. Very good work.

Russ

Jack:

The drooping chain is actually not far from how it really works. Under sail, there is pressure on the mast and sails that will cause the bowsprit to work a bit so a little slack in the bobstay is to be expected. The slack will be taken up under pressure as the bowsprit works under sail.

Russ

The deck and timberheads look good. The outboard trim seems like it has a nice even curvature. That looks good as well. Nice work.

Russ

Nice looking figurehead. Well done.

Russ

The deck is looking really good. Nice work.

Russ

The winch and chain look great. Very nice work.

Russ

I agree that the carved work is better left off or at least minimized. I like the idea of the arch board over the windows, but this is a purely artistic idea. It is your ship.

Russ

Very nice work so far.

Russ

Rail stanchions are great. Nice work.

Russ

Nice work. You can recreate the entire piece in wood if you like.

Russ

Excellent details on the foredeck. Very well done.

Russ

Looks good. That is a nice piece of work on a complicated bit of machinery.

Russ

She looks great. Wonderful details.

Russ

I think it looks pretty good. There is always something that we think can be better in our models. That is a natural reaction. Good work.

Russ