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NMBROOK

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Everything posted by NMBROOK

  1. Truly outstanding work on the ship's boats Grant!!! I will gladly admit,the pic with the four in your hand just blew me away! Kind Regards Nigel
  2. I am glad you got it sorted Dave and they look fabulous The fact it has made the job easier is also a plus Kind Regards Nigel
  3. Fabulous work Dave I love the scratch deadeyes Just one small point,the ones fitted are upside down,the point should face the channel at the bottom and the shroud at the top.Sorry to bring the bad news but I thought it was best mentioned now rather than later when you have more fitted Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Your fish davit looks the business Michael I love the accompanying reference pics with your posts You shouldn't have any issues with milling your knightheads,just keep the cuts small in depth as I assume you will be using the 1mm cutter.Thinking through your dimensions thoroughly enables use of the xy table dials to the full and is much more accurate than working to pencil lines.It is just a case of setting the cutter edge to the edge of the workpiece and let the dials do the rest.The main thing to watch for is allowing for half the cutter diameter where necessary and remember to work centre to centre for the slots I find drawing it out on paper and writing how many millimetres between each cut on the sketch invaluable,i.e. the distance on the dials,doing it whilst milling adds to the confusion and mistakes been there done that Kind Regards Nigel
  5. Fabulous work mate!! I wouldn't envy the sailor whose job it was to shimy along the bowsprit Kind Regards Nigel
  6. Hi Karl Your carving is just the icing on the cake of what is an exemplary piece of model building Kind Regards Nigel
  7. Thank you Nils I am working on Mordaunt as well as Royal William There will be an update when I have reached the point of symetry and new things start to happen.I can't believe how long it takes to lay a deck with curved and tapered planking Just three plank runs left to finish the deck now,but at around four hours per run and limited time on an evening,things are slow.I have also decided how I am going to make the scratchbuilt pear gratings so they will feature in the next update I just have to decide whether to go for Ebony or Pear combings,the main deck will feature profiled Ebony combings to match the black ones on the contemporary model. Kind Regards Nigel
  8. That looks fantastic Marsalv !!I assume you are using a hypodermic needle to 'drill' the treenails.Excellent work Kind Regards Nigel
  9. Hi Bill With your woodworking experience I would give serious consideration to using the real deal.I used to shy away from Ebony after reading all the 'negative press' but one day I thought I would give it a go as a bit of a challenge.Now I have sussed all the little idiosyncrasies of working with this timber,I do actually find it both a pleasure and rewarding to work with.Just a thought my friend. Kind Regards Nigel
  10. Excellent work mate and some fabulous pictures I agree,the rigging will make an even bigger impact to an already stunning model. Kind Regards Nigel
  11. I suggest you give this company a call.They specialise in partworks that have been discontinued.They don't list the Endeavour but it must be worth a go,even if they haven't got the one you want,they might know where you would find it.Another option is Ebay,many issues come up for sale on there. http://www.partworks.co.uk/index.html Kind Regards Nigel
  12. Fabulous to see the first build on here to use Dr Mike's hull construction technique. After watching the DVD,I did wonder whether Dr Mike had these boards made for him or laminated them himself.Standard furniture boards are full of knots,the boards he used were completely knot free.I think it would be advisable to apply knotting solution to these to prevent them shrinking.I think the the main advantages for this technique,especially as he sells his models,is that it is both fast and accurate.The saving in man hours greatly outweighs the wasted material.He also builds two identical models in tandem to offset additional draughting time. Kind Regards Nigel
  13. Bandsaw blades are resistance welded together,I am a coded welder and trust me when I say that Resistance welding is miles apart from MIG(metal inert gas) welding that you are referring to.I wouldn't attempt to rejoin a broken blade with a MIG welder. Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Thank you Michael Like Buck,I can appreciate the frustration that this build has caused in the past.However I think you can draw from the experience in that you have learned that you enjoy another pastime.That of historical research.It isn't every builders 'cup of tea' but it can be as enjoyable as the build itself if you are that way inclined. Besides your next project you have stashed ,the only advise I could offer looking into the future is to seriously consider scratchbuilding.I think this way you can enjoy the research and start from a blank sheet of paper with having to redo someone's inaccurate kit design.You certainly shouldn't have any reservations about your ability,I am confident you would excel with whatever vessel took your fancy. Enough waffle from me I look forward to seeing more updates of your Wasa Kind Regards Nigel
  15. That looks spot on Michael Like Ferit says,sometimes we can't see the wood for the trees when we get wrapped up making these details.Looking at your recent pics reminds me of the great amount of work you have put into your model and what a joy and privilege it has been to follow your journey.I look forward to continue following along with the rigging and masting Kind Regards Nigel
  16. Great link Michael,the same article was in one of the Nautical Research Guild's Journals this year. Kind Regards Nigel
  17. I would give serious consideration to waiting for Amati's Victory to hit the shelves in 1/64.This will certainly 'trump' all others as the leviathan of model ship kits.There is also the fact this will probably be one of the most advanced wooden kits on the market when it is released.It's development is shown in the Amati and Chris watton thread if you haven't seen it already. Kind Regards Nigel
  18. Thank you very much indeed Tom for you kind words I do plan on returning to this model,possibly over the Christmas period.Everything is so involved with this build,I just can't do a bit now and then and life is hectic at the moment.A two week holiday from work with a little festivity,but a lot of modelbuilding should remedy that Kind Regards Nigel
  19. That is a very generous offer Omega.I would have said yes as I would like to build a model of Lennox,however it will be a long while before I start anything else.It would only be fair to let someone else have them who would put them to use quite a bit sooner. Kind Regards Nigel
  20. My pleasure Michael,sometimes it is only a case of a second pair of eyes Kind Regards Nigel
  21. I shall ask the million dollar question Chris Once you have this technique sussed,do you not fancy using it on your Confederacy?In theory as your model is finished in Tung oil already,it would be an ideal candidate. Kind Regards Nigel
  22. Hi Captain Al My first concern was that there wasn't enough fairing to bulkhead one at the bow as so much 'square' edge remains,however looking at the new set of pics I am not to sure,your battens do follow a nice line.I think hooded drop planks are the answer.If you click on my Sovereign build(link on my signature)on page one you will see several of these employed side by side.What I do recommend is that you try and get some infill into the bow in the remaining space you do have.To do these on a single planked model with minimal support is a nightmare.Bearing in mind that one drop plank takes two planks width down to half a plank width,I think this is doable,just will take a little patience. Kind Regards Nigel
  23. This is a wonderful little model Omega1234 Having built the Airfix Prince many,many moons ago,I can appreciate how small,small actually is When it comes to wood,I think 1/72 is about as small as I dare go I do have Richard Ensor's fabulous book and recommend it to anyone who wants to add another to their library. Kind Regards Nigel
  24. What I did glean from Alex was that,other than the fact he uses a waterbased stain to make the shades of pear much more uniform(the orange hue on Cumberland)prior to applying anything else,he applies beeswax first before using the Bitumen solution.Applying the solution without reducing the absorbency of the Pear can result in a very patchy finish.This is similar to what you are doing Chris by applying two coats of Tung oil before adding the bitumen.I wish you all the best at getting this process 'nailed' Chris,the effect is well worth it Kind Regards Nigel P.S.Mitchel,the only photos I have seen are of the Russian 'road trip' ,lots of pictures of sights,not so many of the models.
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