NMBROOK
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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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That looks good Ulises Other than either buying some wider lime/basswood strips for the gap or cutting narrow strips from those supplied there isn't much else that can be done .I did wonder if you worked down like normal from the bottom plank down and then notch the planks to suit the metal ports but ensuring you leave two planks gap where the ports are(like Sjors' Mirage) although not necessarily inline with the top and bottom,it would solve the gap problem.Another thing I thought of was to put a vertical strip behind in the middle of the gunports where the hull curves round.This would stop the infill pieces being straight and make them follow the curve.As ever,it is always a battle trying to put ideas in to text,so I hope this is understandable Kind Regards Nigel- 786 replies
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Those blocks look great Michael If I may make one small suggestion.You could counterbore the hole where the knot sits,this would allow it to sit down a little in the cathead.I know not historically accurate and it is obvious you have got the knot as tight as possible for the rope size,just thought it would make the knot less obtrusive.Just an idea and I know it would mean re-rigging the blocks Kind Regards Nigel
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The Bitumen Experiment
NMBROOK replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
That looks great Chris Alex has a post on there describing the technique he uses but the translator makes it almost comical to read As well as 'ageing' it does seem to bring detail out,similarly to a wash in plastic model building.I assume you are referring to Mr Shevelev,the ageing on his 74 looks the business.Incidentally his 74 took a silver at Haydock Park IMBS in the UK this summer(second only to another Russian entry) Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi Ulises I have been following along in the shadows Your build is coming on well,but I can appreciate the problems the gunport design must cause. Sjors has touched on something I have been thinking about.You have probably thought of this yourself.If you place one plank above and one below the metal gunport,you could glue a section of first planking vertically from behind to these planks against the gunport on the opposite side to the bulkheads.This would provide strength to the otherwise unsupported end and give you something to glue that end to.This does rely on access so you may find it easier to do one row at a time as you work downwards with the planking. Kind Regards Nigel
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Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
NMBROOK replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Great work Dave My preferred method for the bowsprit is to drill the correct size hole in a wooden block on the pillar drill at the required angle using the tilting table.This block is then clamped solidly to the bulkhead and deck and I drill the hole through slowly using a cordless drill(lower rpm than mains power).Provided I have coated the area with thinned polyurethane,I don't get any tearing of the planking.This method however is not for the fainthearted . Kind Regards Nigel -
I am glad to see you have decided to continue with this build Mark You have already made an excellent start previously Kind Regards Nigel
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Great progress Nils since my last visit Fabulous work,I do agree with others,without seeing the title,it could be perceived we were looking at a 1/48 scale model. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Bill They are both exactly the same!!! HMS Surprise was never offered as a proper weekly partwork in the UK,so I very much doubt it will be any different for the US.Save yourself a heap of cash my friend and go with Age of Sail.Only downside to both depending on your opinion,no paper plans,the model only comes with an instructional CD for the computer.However the kit can be built into both a large and well detailed model. Kind Regards Nigel
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Your build is coming on fabulously Vince I can foresee it being a couple of years before I reach this stage Kind Regards Nigel
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Nigh on perfect symmetry Bob,fantastic work I would have a go at woodcarving ,you never know unless you try You may even find it enjoyable Kind Regards Nigel
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Good to hear you are back 'at it' mate Life is getting in the way for me as well at the moment,not spending half as much time in the workshop and on here as I would like at the moment Kind Regards Nigel
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This is a very good question Rob.Looking at Goodwin's book and pics of the builders model of Egmont(one of the few Navy board models with accurate framing),I am inclined to say that they follow the axis of the cant frames.Do remember though that the ports will appear shorter in the sheer plan as this is a side view,the hull is curving away from you. Kind Regards Nigel
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
NMBROOK replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Fabulous work Marsalv I do like that you have fitted so many bulkheads,much better for planking than the handful on Caroline I do agree with Mark,it would be a shame to cover that great woodwork with paint. Kind Regards Nigel -
Not necessarily,mine is a 2.5 hp industrial compressor Rgds Nigel
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One thing that is sometimes forgotten and is not mentioned here,make sure you fit a condensate trap between the compressor and brush.depending on the temperatures in your workshop,condensation can collect in the compressors tank resulting in water droplets coming through the airbrush.They are cheap and worthwhile insurance. Kind Regards Nigel
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Apologies for my absence Mark Having now caught up with your log,I have to say wonderful work,she is progressing well Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Harvey I had to pay you a visit when i saw the photo in Latest full profile picture.I could not believe your model started as Corel's kit.Outstanding work and a real credit to you If you do decide to change the chain,I found Aeronaut makes the smallest available unless you raid the jewelry store.I bought mine from the model dockyard,but I imagine Cornwall model boats stock it as well.It also comes pre-blackened. Kind Regards Nigel
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Zheng He's Massive Ship from Ming Dynasty
NMBROOK replied to mkmossop's topic in Wood ship model kits
According to Wiki,one Chi is equal to 333.3mm. Kind Regards Nigel -
Stunning work my friend!!!!Your patience and dedication throughout the trials and tribulations of sorting the armament is outstanding.the end result is spectacular. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Phil My take on it is that there is no internal planking to the inside of the bulwarks.I googled 'open bulwarks' and a similar term is used to describe Titanic's promenade deck.Here the shell plating extends up to the handrail with exposed tee bars to the inside face.The question I am asking myself is that surely if they were completely open they would be referred to as something else. Kind Regards Nigel
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That looks pretty good to me Nick,you have the little curl at the end just right If you were to run it to a point,then you induce plank creep up the stem,which is to be avoided with this style of planking.I would fit the garboard and then work upwards to complete the hull.The planks will look a little like a hockey stick as you work away from the garboard then start to straighten out a little as you meet up with your last plank.You are best to adopt the tape approach for the next couple,just so you can give it a good 'eyeball' before cutting the planks.They want to adopt the slight upward sweep you have on your last plank laid at the bow. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Jack This is true and wearing an ordinary dust mask is advisable,however there are some hardwood dusts just as bad if not worse.I quite often do any large sanding jobs outside and find a mask unnecessary.Unless you inhale the dust,it isn't anymore dangerous than any of the other materials we work with,It is worth mentioning that we have no knowledge as to the resins used in plywood manufacture,it may well be that these are just as harmful. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Jack If all your internal skeleton is hidden,I wouldn't rule out using MDF for everything.The only thing I would suggest is using 6mm MDF for the frames,4mm is far to pliable.Personally,if you stick with plywood,I would change to 6mm birch ply for the frames,it gives a much better bearing surface for the planks.I know the recent builds you have posted have had 4mm bulkheads supplied by the kit manufacturer,but they are working to financial constraints,you can do as you please and make life a little easier into the bargain The only thing I found when working with MDF is that don't use your normal files,it will take forever ,I use the rough permagrit ones,although very coarse they work the MDF easily as it is nothing like normal timber. Kind Regards Nigel
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Antony is spot on!The hinge on your model is a standard Amati fitting,along with the door frame.The only difference may occur is that your hinge has been stamped out and the ones you have bought are photo etched.There is a possibility that Amati has changed their manufacturing technique for this fitting.I would call or email Cornwall Model Boats first and ask them about the first two hinges listed on Antony's linked page.The pictures are from Amati's fittings catalogue and they haven't changed them in many years. Kind Regards Nigel
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