Jump to content

KeithAug

Members
  • Posts

    3,298
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by KeithAug

  1. 13 hours ago, Rick310 said:

    I am responsible for at least 1gift on my own.

     

    2 hours ago, FlyingFish said:

    so I'm completely stuck now.

    Don't buy bathroom scales. About 40 years ago I bought some for Christmas and the divorce proceedings went a long way before she forgave me! Every time I go out to buy her a present she reminds me of the experience.

  2. Thank you all for taking an interest in my minor operation. I decided to make hay while the sun shines so I cut some wood

     

    I printed and cut out the frame templates and then glued them to the 1/8" birch ply sheets. I glue them using Pritt Stick which I find adequately secures the paper while making removal acceptably easy. The sheets are 12" x 48". I did a few arrangements to try and minimise the wastage. There are 41 frames plus the stern keel piece. I didn't print the bow keel piece because my short term memory failed.

    DSC02410.thumb.JPG.82f0baf30779384ae73e06eb8550053a.JPG

    I then separated all the frames using the hand held jig saw. 

    DSC02411.thumb.JPG.b531667b9522afbdeda0e783d8bfb648.JPG

    So now I have 42 pieces of wood ready for the scroll saw. I get to use the scroll saw in anger about every 4 years and I have to go through the learning curve each time. It isn't worth making a start however because all the lines a fuzzy. Hopefully they will become much clearer in due course.

     

    Tomorrow my daughter is taking me Christmas shopping to ensure that Santa has an adequate pile my wife. Hopefully I will buy the right things and as a result I will make it through to the New Year without too much grief.

     

     

     

     

  3. 3 hours ago, Mirabell61 said:

    but it is not easy to predict exactly where the edge (bulwark to deck edge) will be laying,

    Nils - I find that the problem with scratch builds is that everyone is an experiment. I have often thought that it would-be better to build each model twice and eliminate all the inaccuacies that inevitably occur in the first version  - unfortunately life is too short.

  4. Thank you all for the good wishes re my eyes. The first one is bing replaced on Monday so I am trying to make a bit of progress before I am banned from the workshop. They do one eye then the other after 4 weeks presumably to make sure the first one works before attempting the second. Anyway I have to avoid housework / shedwork for 2 weeks after each replacement. My wife doesn't trust me to be sensible so I expect to be under close supervision for a while. 

  5. Great Model George. I spent an enjoyable afternoon visiting her about 30 years ago. Unfortunately I now live at the other end of the country. I remember the huge transverse beams designed to take the pressure loads from the ice pack. They crossed the hull in the accommodation areas at a most inconvenient height. She is well worth a visit but Rockville is more than an afternoon trip away. Good luck with the build.

  6. 6 hours ago, KeithAug said:

    It would be good if you were able to supply more detail on your build / soldering sequence.

    Sorry Valeriy I should have been clearer. I was referring to the bulwark not the deck plates.

     

    4 hours ago, wefalck said:

    need a lot of surface treatment to look smooth like the original metal.

    Eberhard I agree but plasticard is always an option. Also I have found paint finishes on brass to be a bit problematic as in my experience the brsss doesn't take the paint evenly and when dry flaking tends to be a problem. It may be that I haven't prepared the surface correctly.

  7. 1 hour ago, Valeriy V said:

    The bulwark is welded from parts and its half is installed on the forecastle.

    Valeriy - As Eberhard says - I must do more brass work  to develop my skills. Very inspiring. It would be good if you were able to supply more detail on your build / soldering sequence. I'm interested in how you make the later joints without unsoldering the earlier work?

     

    Also it would be interesting to know why you chose brass for the deck planks rather than something else e.g. very thin birch ply or even card?

  8. Well I suppose it's about time that I started to make some sawdust, even though it is only the building board. It will be 5" wide by 6' long by 3/4 inch thick. The hull beam is about 9" so the sides will overhang. The length is about 6" longer than I need.  The board will be made from 2 pieces of MDF fixed end to end. This is because I don't have a 6' piece handy, however it does ease the machining on the mill which only has a nominal capacity of 18".

     

    I started by cutting two board to give a combined length of 6'. I also drilled two/three 10mm holes in each board to take the bolts for clamping the boards to the mill table,

    DSC02387.thumb.JPG.62ec5a433f3076df363faf8d5d0e0aff.JPG

    I then routed a 1/4" longtitudinal slot in each side of each board 1/4" deep. 

    DSC02391.thumb.JPG.10dbbc44fba6063da7458aeb6336289d.JPGBoth slots were cut from the same datum edge to ensure the top and bottom slots aligned.

    DSC02388.thumb.JPG.265bfa045bb969d0bf6a1a8920a090e6.JPG

    I then cut 2 wooden blocks to fit tightly in the mill table central slot and hammered them in place. I then drilled each block with a 1/4" hole using the same X axis setting.

    DSC02392.thumb.JPG.0e3b2ce50dfb733313f1f3448f463760.JPG

    Once drilled each block had a 1/4"diameter peg inserted.

    DSC02393.thumb.JPG.9c1d9e3309b4e510d851ebf58a55a50d.JPGDSC02394.thumb.JPG.2c50d2de36bebb42dfd7e0d636d894c5.JPG

    These pegs fit into the lower slots in each building board, allowing the board to slide in the X direction while maintaining it at right angles to the table. This then allows the board to be cut over a much greater length that the limitation of the 18" X axis travel of the mill. (The mill table X axis handles however have to be removed for the longer of the 2 boards).

    DSC02395.thumb.JPG.901b5af94fc47a0d5af2788c62150d04.JPG

    The frames are going to be cut from 1/8" ply (because I have some left from a previous project). So slots are cut across the board 1/8" wide by 1/8" deep by 5" long. The mill Y axis travel is 6" so the 5" board width is a convenient size.DSC02398.thumb.JPG.59c0e2da77c3d2ab4e69429455fc23f3.JPG

    DSC02401.thumb.JPG.6277b56a5a513879f3ee5973f420a332.JPG

    Once cut the boards were cleaned up and aligned against a 6' straight edge. Side pieces were then glued in place to join the boards.

    DSC02403.thumb.JPG.65d8f90011e2c232d5547cdcf834a9c5.JPG

    The upper central slot then had 1/4" strip wood inserted to locate the central notch in the frames.

    DSC02406.thumb.JPG.d8df6d95575830943ba936cdace0e6e0.JPG

     

    This might all seem to be overkill but it does make the task of keeping the frames aligned and at right angles very simple. The sharp eyed among you will notice i have numbered the slots with the frame numbers. Hopefully I will put the correct frames in the correct slots.

     

  9. 21 hours ago, TBlack said:

    Take all the time you want,

    I don't have a lot of choice art the moment Tom. I'm waiting for cataract surgery on both eyes and struggle with accuracy when cutting out stuff. I will have about 8 weeks off from dust making once the surgery takes place, in the mean time I eagerly await the appointment. Im actually looking forward to getting it done but may be less enthusiastic once I see myself in the mirror. At the moment I delude myself that I am still a bit of a catch 😁. It is good to think that at least one of the problems of aging can be reversed. 

×
×
  • Create New...