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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Lead corrosion and lead free soldering
kurtvd19 replied to modeller_masa's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Stay-brite is lead free. And it is as easy to use as common solder. -
Lead corrosion and lead free soldering
kurtvd19 replied to modeller_masa's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
As the needed temperatures are much less a soldering iron can work if it delivers enough heat. I have used it with both a torch (that I am very comfortable with) and resistance soldering but because I have the small torch and the resistance soldering unit I haven't tried it with a soldering iron myself. It comes with a liquid flux but I usually use a common past flux - Nokorode is on the work are now. Parts must fit well it doesn't fill gaps. The advantage is that it is easier to use than a true silver solder. I have used stay-brite on parts that just wouldn't hold up to the temperature needed for silver solder. Stay-brite really works more like a common soft solder than silver solder but doesn't fill gaps. I used to silver solder everything - and I got real good at it. I had some parts I thought would possibly melt if I used a true silver solder and somebody told me about stay-brite. I tried it and it worked great. I have used paste silver solder and found it worked fine for some work but it still needs higher heat than stay-brite. Use what is easiest to use and works for the job. I wouldn't use anything but true silver solder if I was still doing radio control boats where rudder and other moving parts need a lot of strength. I defy anybody to break a good joint made with stay-brite on a static model - I sure can't put enough tension on a rigging line to break a stay-brite solder joint. Kurt -
Lead corrosion and lead free soldering
kurtvd19 replied to modeller_masa's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I don't think there will be a problem with that small amount BUT there are lead free solders that are not silver solder requiring high heat. stay-brite by J W Harris Co is lead free, it blackens like silver solder and has a high silver content. I have used it and it has replaced true silver solder in all but rare cases in my shop. Nothing we do with scale models requires the strength of a true silver solder. Look at Jeweler supply outlets - there are lead free solders that are easy to work with. Kurt -
Clay's articles appeared in eight articles (as a practicum) in Seaways' Ships in Scale magazine during all of 2005 and early 2006 and in the"Nautical Research Journal" article -Summer, 2004; Vol 49, #2. The NRG has the entire series of reprints in a book put together by Clay - Building the Continental Navy Brig Lexington – A Practicum by Clayton A. Feldman, MD: A step-by-step practicum, including detailed plans, construction photos, drawings and diagrams on building a plank-on-bulkhead model in 3/16” = 1’ scale with a hull length of 16-inches. Dr. Feldman’s extensive research on the Lexington that was published in our Nautical Research Journal is also included. The cost is 39.9 + shipping (about $5) on a CD or flash drive. Available from the NRG Store - link at the top of the MSW home page. All that said I agree with Druxey - fiction but pretty. Kurt
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Making extremely tiny fittings
kurtvd19 replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Pat: Are you doing the casting or farming it out? -
I know I have the stains to mix up more. I will check ASAP if I have any mixed and let you know.
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Elijah: I will check if I have more stain mixed - if not I wrote the mix proportions down so can do up some more. Kurt
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The IPMS Journals have ads in the back from members willing to do such builds.
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The C/A glue from CLC is mfg by Bob Smith Industries in Ataskadero, CA. They make the best C/A products in my opinion. They put the customer's name and logo on the bottles thus the CLC name and logo on the bottle. Bob Smith Ind also makes/supplies the fine tip applicators - the only way to even consider applying C/A directly from the bottle. The Bob Smith C/A glues are available from many places - just look for the stores name on the bottle - the Bob Smith logo is on the bottom of the label on the back side of the bottle. Their accelerator is the only accelerator I have ever used that doesn't leave a white residue after use. Kurt
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Bob: Sorry, but there doesn't appear to be anything other than the index to each of the books contained in the collection as shown below. The only detailed index is for the Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768 on page 59. Kurt Progressive Scratch-Building in Ship Modeling TABLE OF CONTENTS. Introduction………………………………………………4 Building the Bermuda Boat Corsair……………………6 Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768………….54 Building the Fair American……………………………189 Completing the Fair American……………………….262 Fair American Photo Album………………………….335 Fair American Plan Sheets…………………………...354
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Eric: Similar to what you tried - here is a photo of Chaperon on a series of timbers like used in a shipyard. You probably saw this photo before.
- 599 replies
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Don's book is available from Amazon and many other places for anywhere from $4.99 to $26.00 in hard and soft cover and both new and used. - this book is 138 pages - not likely to be available other than as a hard copy from a book vendor. There are numerous planking tutorials here on MSW under Modeling Techniques at the upper end of the home page. Kutr
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I just checked the 3 small drill presses I have here. I own the Micro-Lux Variable speed drill press. The column is 16" long x 1 3/16" dia. - it is solid steel and screws into the base plate. The solid steel column is mentioned in both this variable speed unit and the 3 speed units descriptions on the Micro Mark web site. The other two were owned by Steve Wheeler and will be sold to benefit the WI Maritime Museum. One is a Proxon unit. The column is 17" long x 3/4" diam - it is solid steel and screws into the base plate. It is tapped top and bottom about 1 1/8 deep - certainly a metric thread so I didn't check the size. The Proxon web site lists the column height as 12" - so this is the column that Steve replaced with the longer 16" piece. It is rock solid even with the longer column. The other that Steve had is a no-name Chinese unit with a 12" long x 1 3/16" diam tube. It is held into the base with a set screw. It is very solid but not anyway near the quality of the other units though I think it would meet the needs of 90% of modelers who are not tool junkies - it isn't pretty but Steve remarked that it did a good job when he used it. Kurt
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I have used the Thread Magic product for several years - don't remember exactly when I started to use it. When using bees wax it didn't always adhere to the line evenly and I was always having to drag the line across or through the bees wax multiple times to get good coverage and then between my thumb and index finger to work it into the line. None of this is necessary with the Thread Magic.
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Congratulations on a great model. I like all the extra details you added.
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2020 NRG Conference
kurtvd19 replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Mike: As a NRG member you should have received an email last week - a constant contact email with other news too - about the cancellation. I was just reminded to make the announcement here - forgot about it totally with all the rest of the stuff happening. Like the Manitowoc cancellation. Kurt -
2020 NRG Conference
kurtvd19 replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
The conference reluctantly had to be cancelled due to the COVID-19 virus. We have confirmed with the museum and we will be rescheduling on (approximately) the same dates in 2021. Venue will be the same and the speakers we had confirmed are all on board for 2021. Kurt -
Mini Table Saw recommendations
kurtvd19 replied to captainscott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One thing about a Byrnes saw is that it can be used outside the shop. I have a full size table saw and a good chop saw - both are heavy and when I had to do the window, door and baseboard trim in a home and shop addition I cut all the Red Oak trim - some of it 3/4" thick using my Byrnes saw in the room I was working on at the time. Saved a lot of walking and with a carbide blade it cut the Oak like butter.
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