Tallshiptragic
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Everything posted by Tallshiptragic
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Just as Jan described. It's to stop glue fixing the structure to the deck during the build as this is the piece that comes off for access to the hull. -
Work started on her stern this evening. Slowly but so far I'm happy wth the look and positioning of things.
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- sergal
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G'day Chris, you're doing a marvelous job on a very imposing vessel! Enjoying watching your build.
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A small update today. I've worked on the stem head. Because I extended the height of the forepeak deck the stem head of the kit keel is too low. This is also incorrect on the sergal kit which depicts the bowsprit running directly above the stem head into the forepeak deck. In fact the Sovereign's bowsprit ran at an angle to the stem head, inserted the deck on the starboard side of the stem. So I've had to make one. There is a carving of a crouched lion, tamed and a Cupid riding it which Sergal has supplied correctly matching that of the Van der Velde drawing. However sergal has it sit on a 'housing' that surrounds the bowsprit and not on the stem head as depicted by Van der Velde. So using some pine I've cut a stem head to suit and carved a scroll on the forward facing part of the stem to match that of the Van der Velde sketch, and used the provided lion and Cupid from sergal sitting ontop. As this stem piece is where the main stay wraps around, the piece is pinned as well as glued into place for extra footing. Stem painted black, scroll and lion gilded.
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Looking great! And an interesting vessel to choose to build. I built this kit quite a few years ago and until my recent and current built of my Sovereign it was my favorite build and by far the nicest kit I've built. I'll follow with interest
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Absolutely. I believe most of the parts to be laser cut so the fit won't be an issue with the decks at all. Usually when I build my RC boats for the same reason as you I have to wait for motors, running gear etc so in that time I build up the superstructure. Keeps you building while waiting for other parts to arrive
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This is a perfect time to finish the outer hull. If you can avoid fitting the decks, get the hull finished so when you add the RC gear you can also ballast the ship, I use lead sheet and ball bearings (in bags) to get the model to the waterline. With the open hull it's the best time to be able to get to all the areas. Once you have the correct trim with your ballast those can be epoxied into the floors of the hull also. Keep in mind the batteries the large 12v or 6v kind are quite heavy so will make up the most of your ballast.
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Pour some resin into the space below that flat piece to coat or fill if needed. Is that for the rudder or prop nozzle supports?
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Yep that's the one and your Trinidad is looking good red was a good choice also.
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A little off track haha sorry, this pic with you at the museum.
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Absolutely, they're redbox - never heard of them myself. Just looked them up online and they're all over eBay quite cheap and whole assortment of figures.
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Thanks mate haha Being on leave since the 24th of April... the kids are at school and the gf at work during the day it's just me and the dog, so I get a solid 6-8hrs when I'm in the mindset. Plus I'm just having a real blast with this build, it's like a good book you just can't put down. When I'm not building I'm thinking about how to go about the next step. Oh and just another pic, I was at my local hobby shop - luckily it's only a 5min drive from home- and found three sets of 1/75 16th and 17th century English sailors. 32 sailors a set in 8 different poses, climbing rigging, hauling lines, lazing around, officers yelling orders... at $3.50 a box I grabbed all three so have a crew of 96 sailors haha
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That Prins Willem model looks like the RC one on YouTube?!? If I had a Lorry Van I'd be be tempted to build an RC square rigger also.
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The waterline has been bugging me, so I had to fix it. It's quite obvious the waterline as Van der Velde had seen her was white or at least a painted lighter colour up to the actual waterline. In Van der Velde's sketch she rides low in the bows yet the 'white paint' is clearly seen just above the water especially at the stern. This also matches the colour painting of the Sovereign by Jacobb Knjiff, with what appears to be a royal yacht alongside her. Oh and just another example to help me was an article from a 90's model boats magazine of the sovereign built by Chris Watson - Caldercraft and now Amati mode designer. Im much happier with it now and it also shows how close those gun ports were to the water!
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Just came across your build and what a lovely surprise. Always liked this model and class of ship. Very well done.
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AK interactive weathering paints are amazing stuff! I use a lot on my modern builds. Originally armour and aircraft but they have special naval and ship weathering paints- rust, salt stain, oils and grime typically found on ships as well as a battle damage range for exposing flaked paints which actually flake paints.
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I agree with Popeye and forgot to mention it myself. Use a good quality car bog on the outer hull before resin. Take your time and allow each bit to dry well and sand. You'll end up with a lovely smooth 'steel' hull
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G'day hennie, not sure what path you're contemplating with the sovereign but just for you're interest I've added a couple sketches to show the main changes I made to mine to modify her. These will need to be taken into consideration before planking etc so thought I'd point them out to you. As I've made my gun decks straight and not following the sheer line (the false decks for the half guns are still fine, however you need to adjust the position of the wood blanks to take the barrels.) All upper decks, f'cstle, half deck, quarter deck need to be laid level so trimming of the frame notches are required here. Only the poop keeps the original incline. The forepeak deck is raised by 7mm total height including deck planks. Staying with the upper decks, the quarter and poop will need to be trimmed down to match the stern facia if you're changing this to match the Ley painting. Also the frames 10-12 will need to be faired quite a bit to suit the new run of the planks. (This is only the upper parts of the frames from the middle wales. Below this the hull I haven't changed) brings me me to the stern. The whole face is reduced in width and taper. The curve of the transom is changed from a large curve and a smaller curve above to one continuous curving transom. And the overhang of the stern galleries are removed. Sergal builds the stern as a wrap around gallery connecting with the quarter galleries so another thing to keep in mind if you want to modify. Hope it's not too daunting! Below a couple sketches, the black shows roughly the sergal hull - the redmy modifications
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Hi frozen, with the fiber glass resin I would suggest once the hull is sanded and smooth the give the outer hull a couple of light coats of resin first. Let dry properly and a light sand in between coats, this will make the hull nice a solid and then resin the inside of the hull. This is how I build my large RC ship hulls. Also when the hull is done and you lay the decks down again give these a coat of resin also especially at the joins with the hull. The resin will ensure better chance of the deck and hull not parting after years of use on the water as well as ensuring its waterproof. If you're patient you don't need to use cloth just a few light layers of resin. Below is a photo of my 1:72 Australian AWD HMAS Brisbane and my 1:72 Arleigh Burke class DDG in progress.
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Janet, your snake is looking brilliant!
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Thanks again guys for checking in and the comments I find it both humbling and encouraging to get these. Hans, you're father might have met or seen mine onboard! The Willem Ruys was interesting in her hull design as originally she didn't have and bilge keels what so ever. This is why she had such a pronounced tumblehome. The design also had automatic pumps which would pump sea water between the sides of the hull to counterbalance roll to try to limit roll while at sea. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this was revolutionary for her time. As a not she was also the first passenger liner to have her lifeboats hung low as is now the norm. After she had her first major refit where her after superstructure was extended to enable more cabins and air con for cruising, they installed fin stabilizers on her hull.
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I don't ever remember mamoli producing a Sovereign kit only Sergal. I still have my fathers catalogues from the 70's and 80's haha Are your decorations not real bronze? My sergal pieces are but saying that my kit is of the 80's vintage possibly late 70's judging by the box art and instruction booklet.
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