Chuck

Yes indeed. Luckily our models dont see the outside and any water. The cedar really works well and has a great color that is so complimentary with the use of boxwood. In fact, to point that out, I finished the qgallery on the starboard side. For the most part, all of the wood that makes up what you see on the qqallery is boxwood. It blends really well with the cedar. You get the benefit of the cheaper price so you can use it for planking and frames and other big stuff. Then like done here you can switch to the ever more expensive boxwood for the details and other fittings. In fact, most of the deck fittings and molding will all be done in boxwood. The qgallery roof rail is all laser cut from boxwood. You basically have to evenly space the four uprights which are at an angle leaning aft. There is a nice etched detail on each of them. These are super super tiny at only 1/16" wide give or take and 1/8" tall. Then the top rail is added. This is laser cut with an etched detail along the bottom to give it some depth. I sanded the laser char and rounded off the edges a bit. Then I glued it on top of the four uprights. Yes it a bit longer so you van adjust it to fit your model. Lastly, the three laser cut fancy "flowers" for lack of a better description were glued into the space provided for them. These are fragile. Only 1/64" thick and again soooo tiny. Dont even bother trying to remove the laser char from the edges. They will break. Just glue them in position. That is what I did. This completes all the work for the starboard side as described in chapter 3. Now to repeat this on the port side!!! Left natural and unpainted...just so you can see it. Its too bright for my tastes. I am going with the painted version. The painted version....weathered to look like a slate color....I may still lighten it up a bit. Overall the galleries came out well. But these are tricky with so many complex angles. I definitely recommend buying the laser cut pieces for these even if you are trying to build most everything from scratch. The windows and glazing and the columns with laser etched flutes etc. All of the laser cut and etched scrolls will be included too. The angles are all worked out for you and this will make building the qgalleries so much easier. These parts will be mostly boxwood for the cedar version and cherry for those building it in pear or some other darker wood. Oh and I added a scrap piece of painted strip to show you guys what the cap rail will eventually look like. This will be painted black and glued on top of the sheer much later in the project. After we finish planking inboard. Much later...but it shows how nice it will be finished off. Any questions or comments???

You should be good to go. Everything is shaping up well Rusty. 😊

The resin sets are now available.......The full sets are $120 including the figurehead. Stand alone figurehead will cost $22. I have also decided to ship the thin pieces for the cove like this. They are very fragile. Just use a sharp #11 blade to remove the thin backing. It will slice right off. Dont sand it off......cut it away.

Resin sets are now up on my site for sale. I am also selling the figureheads stand alone. Keep in mind the Christmas holiday so I may not be able to ship until after Xmas now. The admiral is giving me too many Santa Duties. Chuck

For those building in Cherry or pear..... Here is what they will look like with a coat of OLD MASTERS fruitwood gel stain. I STRONGLY recommend that whether you are building in Yellow Cedar, Cherry or pear, that you apply a coat of this gel stain with a brush. Leave it sit for a minute or two. Then buff it off with another soft but clean brush or soft lint free cloth. It really does the trick and creates the finish you want. Below shown against some scrap Pear I had and left on a bit longer to get less contrast.

If you mean the friezes they are in sections on 8 1/2 x 11 sheets. thanks Tim, i should also have have the resin sets up on my site today. So watch for that.

I look forward to seeing a lot more of this project as you move forward. Thank you for sharing it with us.

We have all been there. I might also suggest painting outboard above the top molding. Perhaps a muted blue like the model in the rogers collection. Nobody would ever see your mistake that way.

I just had a conversation with Tom and Ancre. I have been made aware that this arrangement is not yet finalized. But I am very optimistic that it will be in a very short time. So please be patient. There will be an announcement when everything is all wrapped up!!! I think a bit of this got lost in translation. Chuck

The only way to tell for sure is to cit out the stern template and check it against your stern.

Yes there should be a link to view the results....somewhere, but it goes away after voting so I cant tell you for sure.

Thank you very much!!! I have sent you your invite....just accept it and you will have full access. Enjoy the project.

Anytime....keep going!!! Its going to look great.

Welcome to MSW Tom.... Yes indeed this is true...I am very excited to say. 😁 Over the last few weeks I have worked with Tom at CAF to introduce him to Didier Berti of Ancre. It was my hope that if these two could discuss the issues at hand that some sort of agreement could be reached. It has been and I am thrilled to announce that they have formed an agreement which takes both past sales of Ancre related kits and future sales into consideration. I would also like to thank Kerry Jang who was instrumental in this process. With this licensing agreement between Ancre almost finalized, I can announce officially the lifting of the ban we placed on all CAF kits. I also welcome Tom and CAF models to MSW where I expect he will become a cherished member and hopefully sponsor. So if you intend on building any CAF kit please do start a build log and ask Tom for assistance. Here is a link to the CAF website....https://www.cafmodel.com/ This should make it perfectly clear that our main focus at MSW and the NRG was indeed the act of pirating kits and the theft of intellectual property. It was not a vendetta against any individual or country. We have removed all reference to CAF being banned on MSW....Everyone should enjoy building CAF kits and I insist that you start a build log when you get started!!! Everyone....Please join me in welcoming Tom from CAF models!!!! Chuck

No but after printing....spraying and such....and taking photos it will look different than in real life. But you can always import it and alter the saturation and contrast settings in photoshop or something.

This is where the planking went astray.... You can see where you made the plank come to a point back there instead of following the run of the wales. If you dont want to tear it all out I suggest you just add another strake to bring it in line with the transom and use a copy of the plan to establish the correct sheer line. Also the rabbet around each port should have been so much smaller which would of enabled you to raise that strake just a tiny bit more.

That is the color....it might just print differently on everyones printer. Also my the photos may look different of my model because of my camera settings. But no I cant change it because each piece is frieze is made up of several images strung together which would take hours and hours to redo and change....either in color or size. So everyone will have to import them into a program if they want to change it. I wont have the time or desire to custom alter the friezes for everyone. What you see took about 100 hours to create over many weeks. Chuck

Wonderful model. Its very graceful and elegant. Well done.

You are probably right. I have til the weekend to decide as i wont have time till then to finish up the qgallery rail.

You guys are supposed to help make that decision easier...lol. It looks evenly split.

Its not the design....its all you. The design only goes so far.

Nicely done Ryland. That is not an easy part of the project. Those wide floorboards are tough and you executed them perfectly.

I also want to thank Simon Stephens at the National Maritime Museum for getting me these great photos of the contemporary model. He is the curator of ship models there. I wouldnt have been able to recreate the friezes like this without his help. Thanks Simon!!! 😊

A small update.....the starboard side is almost complete (for chapter three anyway). I just want to add that fancy rail on the top of the qgallery. But today I finished the friezes and molding on this side. Remember, the middle molding goes on first. It is a scraped 3/32" wide molding. It establishes the proper sheer run. Then you can add the friezes above and below that molding strip. You should do this without the qgallery roof glued into position. It is done this way so the roof can cover the friezes (be glued on top of it) and you will get a nice clean edge. This way you want have to cut the frieze around the roof and shingles. The lower molding is also scraped in the traditional way. It is also 3/32" wide. It has a different profile than the middle molding. Check out the images of the contemporary model in the gallery before you make your scraper for the molding. You can cut the short lengths that need to be added between each port. In addition, you will need to cut the frieze around each port. I found this easier to do after the frieze was glued on. Use a very very sharp xacto blade. Go slow!!! Then finally, locate the fixed blocks which are now covered by your frieze. To do this, poke a drill bit through the sheave holes from the inboard side to puncture the frieze. Then carefully cut the frieze away to reveal the sheave slots. I ran a sharp pencil in the sheave slot to clean it up and make it neat. It also darkens the sheave. Then glue the top frieze into position. Try and locate the seams between each segment over a busy part of the design. This will help hide it. You would be very hard pressed to find it on my model. The frieze will not go all the way to the sheer. It will be about 1/16 - 3/64" below the shear. This is to accommodate the top run of fancy molding. This molding is not scraped. It is laser etched and cut for you from boxwood. I did this so I could also match it to the scrolls (volutes) along the waist. I think it looks pretty good and mixing traditional scraped molding with a laser cut one is a good approach. Much better than using a laser cut molding for every occurrence. Be very careful with the scrolls when you sand them....they are fragile at only 1/32" thick. The first thing you should do is lightly sand the top surface with some 320 grit sandpaper. Then remove them from the sheet. Use a light touch and then remove the laser char from the edges. As you do so, remember to support the scroll between two fingers so it doesnt break along the grain. Again use a light touch. Dont try and clean the char in the inner edges of the swirled scroll. It will break. To finish them up, round off the top and bottom edges. The same can be done with the lengths of laser cut molding so they match the scrolls and can be glued together so you cant see the seams between them. Dont try and scrape the char from the laser etched grooves. It just wont work and if you just leave it as is t will look great. This is what I did with mine. When its all done...this is how it should look at the bow. Take note of where the molding ends. Once I finish the other side, I will paint the bollard timbers black. You could do this ahead of time as well. Probably easier that way. Everything above the bottom molding will be painted black. You cant really tell the difference between the laser cut and etched molding and the scraped molding in that close up!! Its just a little darker where the char sits in the grooves. Lastly...at the stern, notice on the contemporary model that the top molding does not extend to the transom. The blue of the frieze extends right up to the shear. The black cap which we will add later will sit on top of the shear. The molding ends at the rail on the qgallery roof. Which I will add next. ANY questions or comments??? I dont think I forgot to mention anything.....remember....a light touch when sanding those scrolls....really. And I still havent decided on the roof color for the quarter galleries....but I have to decide so I can add that rail. By the way, I havent even started on the port side yet. So lots to do before I start working on the stern.

Looks very good