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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. That really looks good Ben. I cant wait to see it defined with the window in your planking. chuck
  2. Looks very good. I would fair a bit more on those bow fillers judging from how that batten run off them. You need just a wee bit more so you dont have a bump in your planking along the aft edge of those fillers. Chuck
  3. Mike ....all that time was so well spent. Your hull looks great. Taking your time always pays off in the end. Can you post a photo of the entire hull as well? Chuck
  4. Materials list chapter three..... I am starting to put these together this weekend and should have them available next week sometime. Lots of laser cut parts and even though some are small parts the laser is set on a very slow speed and low power to etch and cut these details. These are some sophisticated little parts like the molding and scrolls.... There will be a mixture of Boxwood and Cedar parts. All Strip wood is included. Hopefully I didnt forget any or the numbers I kept track of were correct. The Cherry version will follow shortly after. Materials List for Winnie third.pdf
  5. That looks pretty good to my eye. Just have to clean up more of that char. Very nice!!! I also see some additional fairing needed on those port frames. But it is shaping up nicely.
  6. I just use gutteman polyester thread. I get 100 weight thread the same color at any craft store. For thinner ropes you can use fly tying thread.
  7. Yes Jeff certainly spoiled us all. I miss the service every day.
  8. No unfortunately in the USA there are no longer sources for milled strips of Boxwood, holly or Swiss Pear. There are only a few businesses left and they are all outside of the USA. I am afraid that the only way folks are going to get stripwood like this moving forward is to invest in a good hobby saw like the Byrnes and buy sheets to mill your own strips. Not only is it cheaper but after a short time you will get really good at it. you can find domestic stuff like basswood or cherry but the sizes are limited. Taking your models to the next level means learning how to use a saw like the Byrnes saw to rip your own strips. Its not a good business to be in and it is unlikely that anyone will jump into this space to replace hobbymill.
  9. Dont forget to check out the many photos of the contemporary model posted in out gallery. They are located in the contemporary model section of the gallery.
  10. It looks very good. Your care in planning has paid off. It is important at this stage and she looks great!!!
  11. Wouldnt this make an excellent model project or even a kit maybe? I believe she launches on Feb. 20th. Please visit their Facebook page....really great stuff on there. Chuck
  12. That looks really good. Nicely done. That type of planking with all of those tabs is not the easiest thing to accomplish. Yours looks neat and tidy. Chuck
  13. I made it curve up just a little because I would avoid a completely straight horse. Just for aesthetics. There is no curve towards the transom. It is always equal distance from the transom.
  14. Very nice progress. That is some neat and tidy craftsmanship. Those parts can get tricky to make and install.
  15. Really looking good. Dont be afraid to sand the heck out of that planking. Get it nice and smooth.
  16. Thank you all for the kind words!!!! and Likes!!! I think its time to move inboard and get some work done.
  17. Its nylon or plastic so All of the traditional methods wont work. You need to heat it up and hang a wright on the end.
  18. Try not to over think it. Never got any bubbles. Not even a little bit. I just use a glue stick. Works perfectly. Make sure no lumpy glue. Stick it on. Its really that simple. For a finish I spray them with matte fixative and let them dry before cutting them out. if you are curious....print one out and glue it to some scrap as a test. It should answer all your questions. Spray mount would also work but less open time. With the glue stick you can move it around and slide it before it sets.
  19. thanks guys. Its not too tough Bob. Its about the same difficulty as my other designs like the long boat. Just bigger with more parts. no more difficult to build in my opinion...but i am probably not the best person to ask since I designed it.
  20. The stern transom details are now completed....along with chapter 3. I still have to finish writing it though. Then I will start getting the laser cut pieces together for you folks. The columns were added to finish it off. These were done exactly like those on the quarter galleries. The outside face of each upright between the windows were painted blue first. I was careful not to get the paint on the sides of the uprights. The top and bottom of each column was was cut to length from a strip of 3/32 x 1/32" boxwood. This strip was first scraped to create the profile needed (all those steps in each base and top). Once I cut and angled each piece I used a needle file to also shape the ends to match the profile. Then the center fluted column which is laser cut and etched was glued between them. I just removed the char and then tweaked the length for a tight fit. Lastly, the two small figures were glued to the front of those wider columns. That really finished the look of the stern. I am quite happy with the results so far. The color of the resin was tinted a bit as previously mentioned. Chuck
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