Chuck

Ryland...based on your "liking" of my post about this group build. I have moved your log here. I must now contact Ben to see if he wants to do the same. I figure it will increase activity and the more the merrier.

Here is a PDF of the friezes. I reduced some of the transom images further and it should be good to go. Remember...if anyone needs a further resizing let me via PM. All of the six transoms are different sizes so hopefully out of those posted you will find one you like. Download it below. longboatfreizes.pdf Chuck

I started the main mast first. This was made from boxwood on my prototype but the kit has a supplied dowel. The shape was matched to the plans. The ball truck at the top of the mast was left off until the mast bands were completed first. There were three of them. The two that were used for the blocks were pretty straight forward. I used a brass strip as shown in the photos. The one for the boom was very similar but the small extension was twisted so the holes were on top and bottom. I didnt bother soldering the ends together. I just used CA. It was filed smooth and painted. Works just fine. The Sheaves through the mast were simulated by drilling two small holes first and then carving the material out between them. I usually create a stop-cut first with the point of the blade by just cutting a line on both sides from hole to hole. The material between the two lines is carefully removed and filed afterwards. The iron bands were slipped on the mast and painted black. Then the ball truck was shaped and two sheaves simulated on top. Only one will be used and it will be for the flag halliard. Before stepping the mast the two blocks were attached to the two mast bands. The kit does come with blocks but they are the usual crappy ones. I highly recommend that you scratch these. Boxwood is preferred but any wood will do and they will no doubt be leaps and bounds better than the ones supplied. Only a handful are needed for the entire model. Here is a pic of the blocks being made. Because you only need a few...take your time and there is no need to create an assembly line. When they get done- they get done.

Ryland...it is so great to see the log and your progress. I will be following closely. You have achieved a nice finish on the keel and it will look just great when completed... Thanks for sharing. Chuck

Nope, not me. I have since seen pics of the new ones in position. They actually fit quite well even though there was some shrinkage. Chuck

Congrats on teh promotion....I am looking forward to seeing the longboat take shape. Chuck

I split and moved the discussion to its own topic...I hope I dis this right and didnt lose any in the process....anyway Hope you guys dont mind but it was getting near two pages of discussion on the log. Please continue..... Chuck

No thanks....I prefer to use my Uncle Pauly.... If someone posts something that is copyright...we are really good about that. We almost immediately remove it. I am not worried about that. Most folks are reasonable and after talking to the original author we would certainly remove it. Its folks stealing stuff that hard to deal with...But my uncle said its real easy....he starts with the pinkies. Chuck

Thats not needed...most folks are good people. They wouldnt do those things. Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter. If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up. Its really simple. There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people. If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright. Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds. I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful. But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site. Chuck

Thank you and yes...link away. I shall be adding more today. Chuck

Nope...I can only do so much. Chuck

So your saying that they are not the ones I pictures above??? Those are a perfect fit. Perfect scale and match what a carronade for that period should look like. They are not 42 pounders. they were real tiny 24's. But to each is their own. There was never a screw in the casting...you have to make that part of the carronade assembly. But there could have been shrinkage when they spin cast it. Sorry...but they matched my plans perfectly when I cast them in resin. Send it back Chuck

That looks absolutely fantastic. Wonderful work. Chuck

That unfortunately wont happen. I wish they would though.

Thank you for the kind words Ben....I see one of these kits in your future......

Yes...see the link from Jays post above. http://www.woodcraft...px?query=stains

To finish up the hull before the rigging starts, I added the windless. It was cut from square stock but then shaped with eight side in the center and the ends. The two portions that remained square had some holes in them for the windlass handles. These are actually square holes. After drilling round ones, I made them square by inserting a nail that had a pointy end that was square. Pushing it into the round holes reconfigured them as square with a little coaxing. Handles were cut to length and shaped as shown. There were some knees on the sides of the hull which were cut from 1/32" thick stock. They were positioned on top of the thwarts and against the cap rail. The rudder was cut to shape following the plans and tapered as per typical practice. It narrows considerable as it works aft. It was painted and the frieze details added. The hinges (pintles and gudgeons) are just paper. Then the horse and oarlocks were completed with some black wire. That finishes teh hull and its now onto the masting and rigging. I found this particularly enjoyable as its a simple rig. Chuck

Thanks Pat...yes it was a fun build. I added the front for the locker in the cockpit next. Then I spaced the thwarts according to the plans. The thwarts had scribed grooves down each side as the NMM model showed. The center thwart also has a different shape. Its wider overall and is shaped in the center to support the mast. Around the mast are four belaying pins I turned from boxwood by chocking them in my dremel. The iron work on this thwart was just paper strips. With all of the thwarts in position it was easy to determine the shape and size of the cockpit seats. The seats on each side were added first. Then a thin strip was added between them against teh transom. The locker lid was last to be added. The hinges are just stiff paper card painted black with a piece of wire to simulate the hinge pin.

Looks great so far. I am so glad you are enjoying the kit. Please dont hesitate to ask me any questions. I have all of my prototype pictures and they are larger and in color. If you need to see any I would gladly post here. Chuck

It was time to add some inboard details. The floorboards were first. These were pre-bent so they would lay against the bottom of the frames nicely. Then the two platforms were added. I glued some planks together edge-to-edge and then cut the proper shape using the plans as a guide. I simulated the caulking between the planks with a pencil so they could be seen better. The two platforms were notched along their sides to fit snug against the inboard planking and frames. The risers are the long timbers that stretch from bow to stern on the inboard sides of the hull. The thwarts (seats) will rest on these risers. It was important to make them the same height port and starboard so the seats werent noticeably crooked when I install them I nice detail on the risers was the addition of scribed grooves. This was shown on the NMM model so I included it. They were made by running a sharp awl down the timber with a steel ruler as a guide.

Next up was to add the cap rail. I like to press a wood sheet against the model and trace the shape of the open hull. Then I add an extra 1/32" to account for the overhang outboard. Then i measure and draw another line inside of that one to create a pattern 1/8" wide or there-abouts. I cut it out on my scroll saw and glue it on. It looks awful at this stage. But then I go back and file the edges so they are uniform outboard and inboard. I tried to create a 3./32" wide cap rail or just a hair narrower than that. Finally the friezes were added. These were printed on my ink-jet after scanning my master. It was sparayed with some hairspray as a fixative. Once the friezes were in position I used the bottom edge of the paper as a guide to add a strip of 1/32 x 1/32' molding. Then it was time to paint. The inside was carefully painted as shown in the last few photos above. It was finally starting to look like a boat. Although I like the natural painted planking on the exterior, I thought I would try painting it tallow to match the NMM model. I think it ads some interest so i decided to keep that look although many might prefer to leave planking natural.

Then it was time to file the center of each bulkhead free. I used a file rather than a saw because I found that the saw teeth pulled the wood and it split the top of the frame. Filing it with gentle pressure was easier for me. Then the inside of the hull was faired so the frames were quite thin. I noticed a lot of glue smears on the inside of the planking between the frames. This looked sloppy so I used a curved Xacto blade to scrape it clean. It really worked well. Then a coat of Wipe on Poly was brushed on.

To start the planking, I added two strips on each side along the sheer. This stabilized the hull. It was pretty amazing how sturdy the whole thing got. Then I just continued down the hull with a few more. Then I switched directions and started adding them from the keel upwards. I met somewhere in the middle to finish the hull. The strips were pre-bent to fit the hull both edge-wise and to conform to the bow and stern shape. When it was all done, I added teh stern post. Then it was time to treenail. I treenailed the hull using some Elmers wood filler. To help keep the treenails lined up I used some tape. I ran the tape down the hull being careful to line up one edge on the center of a frame. This was a challenge but I could hold the hull up close to teh light and see through the planking. Then I marked the locations of all of the frames based on the shadows that shown through the planking. I drilled some tiny holes (#78 drill bit) and then filled them. After sanding the hull I applied some wipe on poly

Roger!!!! So great to hear from you . I was actually trying to reach you so I could welcome you back. So happy you are posting some log images of your Syren. Wonderful news. Chuck

Just use the upload feature here. It works a treat and its free. Chuck