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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. There are too many contemporary models that show this feature for it to be incorrect. In fact, You would be hard pressedto find any where the the horse goes over the tiller. I have only seen one.. The way I understand it, this is the way they did it up to around 1780. And after that they switched to make the horse go over the tiller. Prior to that it was done both ways. It is odd but I find it hard to believe every contemporary model is incorrect.
  2. Thank you very much...I will certainly add it to the database as well. Chuck
  3. It is absolutely correct historically..... Take a look at the contemporary model images I posted.
  4. Yes ...just butt it against the stem. Also, since you will be painting the wales, teh butt seams wont show through. At least like I usually paint them. That is your choice actually. You can plank in individual segments or with one continuous strip. It just depends on whether or not you want to paint it so the seams show through or not. For example....see my Winchelsea model...no butt seams show up at all. In fact, when its all painted with the final finish you probably wont be able to even see the individual strakes. Its just a personal preference thing. Chuck
  5. It looks very good Bob. The skeleton is the most difficult part. Once you start putting the skin on those ones she will be a most enjoyable project. Chuck
  6. I would stagger them accross two bulkheads in the standard four butt shift pattern. But dont do it at every bulkhead...stagger them at every other bulkhead so the distance between each plank butt is not too close. You can see on my Winchelsea that in each new strake the butts are shifted to the next second bulkhead edge. Rather than use the very next one...this would have made the butts to close to each other in each strake. I hope that makes sense.
  7. Looking good!!! Enjoy the pinnace model. I am building one again as well. Or trying to find the time. Building it in all holly. I hope you enjoy it. Chuck
  8. Thats looking fantastic so far....really clean rigging so far.
  9. Dont put so much pencil graphite on teh egde. You only need a light shading. If you want it darker......shade both edges of the joint. I notice that folks will really make it dark and heavy....no need to do that at all. Chuck
  10. Fantastic work so far. Its really most important to just give it a try and stick with it. Many dont even try to line off the hull or shape their planks. Having tried it you are half way there. Its now only a matter of finding those little tricks and techniques that will work best for you personally. The principle is there and I am sure you will find your own process to do it. Mine is just one of many. I think you will have a new outlook on the planking process once this hull is planked. You will soon be telling yourself how ludicrous it is to double plank a hull. Why do the job twice? If you can just take your time and do it well the first time around. Chuck
  11. It really turned out beautifully. I do hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. It was a fun project. Chuck
  12. That cut out is for a window with simulated frames. It was my homage to David Antscherl after being inspired by his Resolution model. This one is actually done in all basswood. Here are some images of the prototype under construction.
  13. You should keep those safety timbers on at all times...no reason to remove them until you are done planking above the wales....TRUST ME....you never know when your sleeve will get caught on one of them. Just having them in place keeps your loose clothes from catching on them. It also helps strengthen the whole thing when it comes time to flip the hull over from time to time. Nice work so far...
  14. Try this site....Its the same blocks and deadeyes as Jerzy. By the way....Jerzy's site is now back up but nothing is in stock...maybe someone bought him out??? http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/accessories/index.htm Chuck
  15. Looks like a fantastic start although I know you have been a busy man with all of the planning and preparing up to this point. Chuck
  16. Thats too bad....I know Sam worked really hard on that kit. I do hope that all of the issues get worked out soon. I would imagine it would stand a better chance if you folks with a kit would post this info on the Essex kit launch topic. I think Eric would likely see it more readily and see the need to make amends more timely.
  17. Dont forget that below the wales you will need to bend those edge-wise first before putting them in that jig. Otherwise you will get a mess at the bow. Chuck
  18. The run doesnt look too bad. Its just that the curve at the bow in your next few planks didnt curve enough to fit properly against the garboard. Here is a look at my hull and you can see the garboard is almost identical. You can see how different it looks once the boat is lipped right-side up too. That curve is not as drastic as you think. But it does take a lot of practice to make it bend like that. Because it does taper as well. When you are sanding in the taper you can create a more drastic curve than you attained with just bending. OR, If you are cutting those planks from a wider sheet...I would suggest using a stiff card as a test first. Once you have the shape that fits, simply trace it on the wood and cut it out. Chuck
  19. Thanks guys. Right now only left handed...probably for the foreseeable future. I have too many other irons in the fire. Stern lantern will be available in just a few weeks. Brian...I will be adding the brown color first. But if you need or want the gray version instead. I can make up some to order for you separately. You just need to tell me what sizes and how many packs. As far as the cannon carriages are concerned, the best way to figure out the size is to download the PDf on the cannon page. Measure it because its to scale. It shows both sizes. Print it out on stiff card and place them on your model to see how they would fit before buying them. Its the only sure way to tell. Chuck
  20. Thank you guys for the feedback. Especially all of you who contacted me offline to discuss this topic. I have now created some tests with a Brownish...very dark.....rope. After living with both the gray rope as posted in the first photo and the new dark brown below (bottom two photos). I think I now prefer this darker brown. Once again its darker than the photos show as I had to pump up the brightness so you could see the lay of the black rope. But I think this color is warmer and more akin to what I have seen on contemporary models although I change my mind a lot. I will start producing this dark brown Rope this weekend. Thank you very much guys...I couldnt do it without your input. And thank you to all the folks who sent me samples to look at as well. It is crazy to think how much thought there is in deciding what shade of brown or gray to use. Seems a bit anal but I guess we are all a bit crazy like that. The three images are of .045 rope by the way...1.14mm If you look at the close up of each rope coil you will see how amazing this cotton linen blend is. Absolutely no fuzz. Its amazing stuff. Chuck
  21. There were many extras provided on the laser cut sheets. What happened to them all? I have no idea what a WP number is....but you can talk to Patricia at Model Expo to clarify what sheet they are on. They move the parts around after I give them the initial files so I cant really help you. If you were able to find them on the sheet just count them up and tell Expo it is the group of XX number of knees. But this all depends on if anyone down there knows what a "channel knee/standard" is or what a knee looks like. I dont think there are any model builders left down there so they get confused with the terms. Chuck
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