Chuck

That looks pretty good to me. Its good to see a cherry version getting built.

You are correct...that was an error on my part. You will need more planking strips but I am out of stock with those at this time. Chuck

I used CA so it should be fine.

The survey is not per kit.....its a poll or survey on kit brands. See here. There are far too many kits and subjects to create a poll on a specific kit or subject.

Looks great Mike. You are getting close. The home stretch....hows that running rigging coming along?

Paper prints work just fine....they look great and its how the contemporary models were done. You can buy some self-adhesive paper which is very thin by the way, and print them on that. It would be very easy to paint right on top in a few areas only to fake that you actually painted it. But if the original design is done in a painterly style, it isnt needed. They are not easy to do however so they look good. Trust me. Chris has his work cut out for him. I have seen the decal friezes by other kit companies. The water/slide off kind. They look just awful in my opinion. But there will be trade-offs no matter what is selected. Chuck

Looks great Greg....I dont how I missed this update. Very nice. Home stretch!!!

That looks quite good. Its coming out great.

Feeling a little burnt out making rope and blocks....will be back at that tomorrow!!! So today was a good day to start chapter 4.... This is where we start working inboard and get the deck planked and the bulwarks planked. To start, We need to plank the sub decks. Those are those areas that wont be seen and you are just creating a platform for the ladders. Nothing will be seen down there so no need to start constructing coamings and other stuff. Just neatly plank it with 1/4" x 3/64" planking strips. Dont forget to run a pencil over one edge to simulate the caulking. I started by running one strip down the center line and then I worked my way outward. Picture is below....do this for both platforms. In that same photo you can also see a laser cut piece glued to both sides of the bulkheads. You can see numbers as reference for the bulkheads it sits between. This starts the process of framing out the box so we can build the coamings. You can also see that those pieces have laser etched mortises for the frames which will be added next. Next up, I added the beams...this is the center platform in the waist. The three partial "deck" beams were sanded free of laser char. the beams are also laser etched with mortises to accept the carlings. The carlings were cut from 1/8" x 1/8" cedar strips. Please note that these photos just show a dry fit of all of these pieces. The laser cutter does a great job of etching the deep mortises for the carlings. Although this is the case, you should still square them up a bit and clean up the corners for best results. I did this by scraping the mortises with a sharp #11 blade. You wont have to use a chisel at all. All these mortises need is a bit of scraping!!! The carlings were cut to length carefully for a nice snug fit. Dont cut them long and then force them into the mortises. This will force your beams apart and give you problems later on. Take your time with these. You can adjust those deck beams "port-to-starboard" so the carlings sit correctly in the mortises. Make sure they are parallel to the center line of the deck and to each other. Your coaming will be built over this. This is just a dry fit so I could tweak them all. You can see all the reference letters I placed on top of each piece so I dont mix them up when I disassemble it. Then it was glued in place permanently and the top sanded and faired. Here is an image of the aft platform and its beams and framing completed. This is done exactly the same way as the one in the waist. The only difference is this has a central beam which has laser etched mortises on both sides. This should give you a good idea on how I plan to create the quarter deck beams and framing. The ability to laser etch mortises for any ledges and carlings is a huge game changer. This technique will have many many applications!!! You can see how it is possible to get nice tight joints. And now you dont have to worry about measuring accurately for their placement on the beam and using a chisel to make mortises from scratch.

Very nice

Thats looking good Bob. You are in the home stretch!!😃

Its actually an optical illusion......its lined up with the top. Because it doesnt run to the edge it just looks like its aligned with the bottom.

That looks very good. I make them just as you have done.....

It wouldnt have had a name on the transom. It wouldnt have that molding there either. They would have just had a painted frieze.

Tim its great to see your build log. You did a super fine job on Syren and I know this one will be even better. I will follow along. Chuck

That is a very common problem. It is to be expected. You cant blame mfgs for this as a long piece of wood with slots cut tends to want to bend. The easiest way is to create a slot for the keel as mentioned. But in addition, use brackets as a way to clamp the whole thing in position. Once straightened by these and you have planked the wales and above, you can remove the brackets and it will remain straight as an arrow. All POB models should be built this way regardless. Three or four should do the trick.

I think I have a few partial sheets of those black hooks laying around too. If you like them that much I can send them to you at some point. I have to look around in case I threw them out. But I think I have at least one or two partial sheets of hooks somewhere. B.E...next time you order something remind me and I will toss them in the package.

Remember that all group builds and downloads areas are at the top of the page in the drop down.....see below This also includes teh Winnie group and Winnie downloads area. I am posting because some new folks couldnt find the drop down menu at the top of the page. It is also along the right side of the forum as well. Two places to access them.

Unfortunately my suppliers of hooks went belly up!!! The last guy shut down after I placed and paid for a huge order. Needless to say I never got those hooks. I have however just found one stray package of 3mm hooks laying around. I will throw it in with your recent order Glenn. I usually make my own hooks out of brass wire. They look the best when you make them yourself. You can make them any size and length you need that way. But it takes practice and a lot of time. Once all of this virus stuff is over I will look into finding another supplier or figure out how to make them myself.....but that is a long way off.

Man oh Man you did a great job on that. Fantastic. Whats next? How about a that second new build log? I actually like the blue frieze better than the red!!! Chuck

I believe so. I believe it was the exception to have them as actual windows. Most were false. I am not entirely sure why but my guess is probably to make it stronger. I could be wrong. Chuck

That really looks fantastic Ben. It is refreshing to see you make this project unique and different!!! Love it!!!

Xtra cause their was room for it

Yupp. Thats them or you can use any scrap really.

That looks really good. You should be very happy with that result. The color looks fantastic. If you just do a little light sanding before you use the glue it will be fine. I havent had any issues. You should absolutely apply the WOP though. At least two coats sanding between coats. Wipe off the excess and buff the second coat so it doesnt get glossy. I hope this project has been worthwhile so far and you are enjoying it. Based on your model I would say that you are!!!