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Trussben

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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. Thanks for looking in Mike, the TFFM books are great references for any build IMO. Ben
  2. Thanks for all the likes and comments. Started on Hawse timbers!
  3. Excellent progress there Rusty, planking looks sharp and detailed. Come across any issues so far? Must be nice not to have to make sweep ports. Ben
  4. That's cool Gaetan, never seen that before! Normal pharmacy chain? Walgreens/rite aid type of place? Ben
  5. I guess it's another way to show off the framing but certainly the planking is not correct as per Druxeys picture to what would if been done real world. But still another way to do the job! Ben
  6. Did you consider adding a glossary of terms or would it of added to much to the cost? I can see some people still needing to know what the table terms actually mean. I see the diagrams in the back show some of this info. Ben
  7. Back home for 2 weeks so progress on Pegasus will continue. Well the tricky bollard timbers have been completed and installed, making the notches for the bowsprit chock was fun, also the first cant frames have now been properly installed in preparation for the hawse timbers. And a small matter of the bowsprit chock! Ben
  8. Agree with all the others Toni, stunning as always. Ben
  9. Allan, these blades should fit all standard pinless machines. The make I use are Flying Dutchman, but there are other makes out there. Just google it! Ben
  10. Hi Alan, Looks like your having fun! 1. I normally use a #3 or #5 Ultra reverse blade cutting stock less that 9 scale inches thick depending on material and how tight the curves are. 2. Chocks are a lot of fun, just keep practicing and you will find a way that works for you. 3. Druxey recommends 1/64, I actually left them a little fuller at 1/32 to give myself a little insurance. 4. The more frames you make, the faster it will become. By the time you get to the last frame and have mastered your own technique you will be less than 1 hour!! Its a steep learning curve! 5. HAHA - yeh, its good to have a handhold while cutting and keeping the fingers away from the blade! Just keep on going Alan - its not a mountain your climbing but sometimes it will feel like it ben
  11. Looking good Augie, The brick hearth is actually pretty easy to make, it's the painting of it to look realistic that's tricky but I'm sure you will do fine. I installed the cabin floor before the rest of the deck planking to ensure a good tight fit, the joint gets hidden under the aft most bulkhead if you do get some gaps, that is if your are going to do the chequed floor of course. Ben
  12. Got my copy on order Allan, I will be using it to back up my copy of Steel, as you say there are some things that are not there but exist in SR. I assume it will be layed out like Steel did, not all haphazard like SR?? ben
  13. Moving along well there Michael, I can wait to get home after this trip and get some modeling time in. Did you soak the deck clamps before clamping in position? Did you get some spring back? You can always use some card to make a template of the curve you need, and then cut a scrap wooden block to match the template and use this to clamp your wood to to get the correct curve instead of on the model where it's a lot more difficult to get your clamps in a good position. Ben
  14. Did you glue the false deck edges at the stern down? It looks like the deck has a major camber in the aft cabin! Ben
  15. Hi Grant, I like the case, its exactly the same as I did with my ECHO, although yours is a hell of a lot bigger :P and more expensive :o , I liked the black base as well as a contrast against the boxwood. Not far to the finish line now! ben
  16. Hi and thanks for all the likes I will be working up in PA for several days and then to Niagara NY before finally getting home on the 20th I hope. Mark - Im thinking about taking a few pieces with me, just not sure what yet, maybe a couple of cant frames to assemble but I would need to do it all with hand tools. Remco - I agree, the bowsprit chock looks like its going to be a lot of fun to make! and yes it is good to have a mentor to keep his eyes on what I'am doing. ben
  17. Thanks Druxey, the pins seemed like a good idea at the time instead of using tape to keep them in place. More work was done to the bollard timbers, the 3/4" air space was marked and the waste chiseled out and then refined with sanding sticks. Also the knightheads were carved in using a small chisel point exacto blade and some needle files. Next step will be to reattach them temporally to mark the bowsprit curves to be sanded into them and mark for and make the bowsprit chock. Going to be working away for pretty much 2 weeks so progress will come to a halt. Ben
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