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Trussben
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Everything posted by Trussben
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Hi Allan - My plan was to add the ports as I go along ( same way described in TFFM and how Danny did it ), on my Echo I did them afterwards and I had issues getting good joints by fileing the birdsmouths in. Cutting them off the model with a sharp chisel sure does make nicer and tighter joints but I hear what your saying about getting a better run of the ports by doing later, I feel that the aft port is in the right place compared to plans, measured lots of times. I will have to think about these pros and cons. ( aka - about to send yet another e-mail to my Mentor! ). Thanks everybody else for making me think that maybe I'm not as messy as the Admiral would lead me to believe. The long dreaded bollard timbers are next - I can see a few do-overs in my future with these buggers. ben -
Well done Allan, Getting used to using the Brynes takes some time but because it's so well made it's is worth the investment as it's so repeatable and accurate. Have you bought one of Jim's disc sanders yet? It's just as good as the saw and makes making the chocks for the frames much easier IMO as well as many other parts when scratch building full framed models. Ben
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Thanks Alan, Druxey and all the likes. First pic shows all aft framing up to and including the first square frame 14 aft. Gunport sills and lintels were made of 5" stock Tennoned into the frames, took a few attempts to get these a good fit. Second pic shows one method I use to apply iso for debonding glued in temp spacers, after the earbuds are soaked in ISO they are positioned and covered in cling film to stop it evaporating, after an hour the spacers will pop out. Last pic shows how messy the work area has become, it shall be cleaned before any more work is done but also gives an idea of my progress to date. I think I will fair in the inside aft framing before moving forward to start making the bollard and hawse timbers. Ben
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Looks great Remco, nice uniform finish and I agree with the others, subtle treenails. Ben
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Seems us central Ohioans will get some workshop time indeed! Ben
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Damn, we should meet up and exchange dockyard tales, wish there were a few more people around! Ben
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Those main Bitts look excellent Bob, well done. Ben
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Looks good Alan, I made the rising wood both by hand like you and I made one on my Byrnes saw, I didnt really see much difference in the quality but it was a hell of a lot faster using the Byrnes. ben
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So your in Springboro?? Im about 5 miles south in Red Lion!
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Hey Rusty, I may have to look into one of those dust deputy's myself, thanks for sharing. Ben
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Just came across your build, very nice. Where around Dayton are you? Im in Lebanon and I know Patricks up in Colombus. ben
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Hi Patrick, The time you have taken to make a good build board will pay dividends in the future. Ben
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Week or two?? U doing a lot of fishing? I can't wait to see your great cabin floor!! I remember you chasing me at that point in my build!! Lol Ben
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You are making that look easy Danny, but I'm sure that it isn't. You say the Swiss Pear is too soft for those details? Ben
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Thanks Druxey " rolls eyes" ! I have checked it out and I guess the camera angle makes it look worse than it is as it measures just 1mm under the depth of the other frame, that should fair out no problem don't you think?? Ben
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Question about shaping/sanding with files
Trussben replied to Jwvanost's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use Grobet Swiss files, Swiss made in #0 and #2 cut. very high quality normally used by toolmakers. I love their rifflers as well. Ben -
Does look good Remco, I think I will use the fiebigs method for my Pegasus instead of fighting with ebony, but I may give ebony a try anyway just to see how tough it is. Ben
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After cleaning up, the foot of each frame was carefully paired down with a chisel and offered up to the model until a correct height was achieved, then glued back into place and new spacers made and added. From the pics you can see that they are now in their correct positions and no problem fairing them in should now occur. Now back to making the last of the aft cants and the aftmost gunport. Ben
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Offending spacers and then frames have been removed carefully with the aid of isoproponal, a little bit of clean up to remove old glue residue is needed and then they will be refit. Ben
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Well just arrived home from working away, threw my bags through the door and went strait down to the workshop to look at the issues with some of my aft cant frames, Druxey hit the bullseye and my port frames 2&3 are sitting high compared to the starboard side ones! Starboard frames do not show any problems and the height of breadths are dead on, the first pic shows the astern view of the starboard side from below, the second shows the problem port side internally and shows the frames sitting high compared to other frames. So this weekend I will break out the isopropanol and move the frames down as suggested by Druxey. It's great to get sage advice that saves your *** on this site, Druxey - I owe you the adult libation of your choice if we ever meet. Ben
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Hi Allan, I emailed Bob and he said it should be on the website for sale and delivery next week. Can't wait to get my hands on it, will really help me out on designing the Indy. Ben
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