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gjdale
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So then Kevin, I guess that means that the longer it takes you to finish, the lower the cost per hour, and therefore the greater the value for money. Yep, I just know the Admiral is gonna buy that!- 1,319 replies
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Great work Sjors, And now that you can tell Port from Starboard, it might be safe for you to put to sea
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Hi Mobbsie, I'm curious as to why you are using CA for your second planking. As you know, I (like many others) hate using CA at all. It's been a long time since I did my second planking, but I seem to recall using a rubber contact cement - paint it on the hull, paint it on a plank, then join. My recollection is that it is fairly forgiving to use and progress was extremely fast. Just a thought for you my friend...
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Hi Mobbsie, Thanks for the good wishes my friend. It's been a tough week in terms of pain management. The throat ops (UPPP and tonsillectomy) have been the worst and have required some really heavy duty drugs. Just as I got that under control, the side effects kicked in and I was back at the hospital again on Saturday and again yesterday to try and get the " inners" working again (I'm sure I don't need to elaborate, you get the picture! ). Got some new drugs yesterday and they seem to have worked a miracle overnight. I think I've turned the corner at last now and I'm looking forward to being back in the shipyard by the weekend.
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Great to some more updates Paul - a truly exceptional piece of work.
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Fabulous Danny, and with your usual great explanations too! The ebony looks great but I'm still curious as to why you chose to use this instead of, say, brass (did I miss this?) or was it "because I could"?
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Here's where I bought some online: http://westernfirearms.com.au/cleaning-gun-care-bluing-wood-metal-care-brass-black-p-1599.html
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Klaus, You can use water to dilute the brass black. This will slow the process down and should help get effects you are looking for. It's something of a "black art", but most advice I've seen has been to use a solution of 1 part brass black to 8 parts water. Demineralised water would be best, and you should rinse in this after treatment to stop the chemical reaction. And Randy is correct about thoroughly cleaning the parts first. Some people use vinegar to wash the parts first, then rinse in water, then blackening solution/mix, then rinse again in water.
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Nice looking build Roger. Your son should be well pleased!
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Nice to see some progress at last there Anja. It must feel good to get back to it after the stress of the job situation. And some good innovative solutions too!
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Harvey, Don't think of it as spending 4 hours to do something that used to take 20 minutes. Think of it as spending some quality time getting to know your new toy!
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Hec, If you wish to replace any timber, then I would thoroughly recommend contacting Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill (one of the sponsors of this site). I bought some from him to scratch build a couple more of the ship's boats. Jeff's timber is excellent and his customer service is nothing short of outstanding. The McKay book is useful, but if I could have only one, it would be the Longridge book. I have used it more than I have used the kit instructions, particularly now that I'm into the rigging stage.
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Hi Hec and welcome to MSW. I'm also building this kit (link in my signature below). Be very careful about reading ahead and planning with this kit - the instructions have a habit of painting you into corners! If they haven't already done so that is. Check your QD cannons and install them BEFORE you glue the poop deck in place. The instructions tell you to fit them through the gunports - but they don't fit. As for "copper" tiling, I opted to go with the kit supplied green wood, painted copper and partially rubbed back. You can see the effect in my log - I think it looks okay, but proper copper tiles might be better if you feel inclined. I look forward to following the rest of your build - with a little (or a lot) of "bashing" this does make up into a nice model. The only other tip I'd give you for now, is to buy a copy of "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by C. Nepean Longridge. This is the "bible" for all Victory builders and has been an enormous help to me so far.
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Very nice Mobbsie, very VERY nice!
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Great work Kevin. Keith, The smaller dead eyes are for things such as backstays, which run from the topmast (ie higher up), and hence use a smaller line than the shrouds.
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Nice picture Sjors - it really shows off the two-tone timber stripes very well.
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Jim, I recall that on MSW 1.0, Danny Vadas told the story of joining a stage-coach building forum, only to be told that he wasn't welcome because he was building his from a kit and they only catered to scratch builders. Not much help I'm afraid, except as a reminder that not all forums are as friendly and well run as MSW.
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HMS Victory by Sven - FINISHED - 1:600 scale
gjdale replied to Sven's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks for sharing the "magic trick" Matt - I'll have to give that a go with my 1:90 -
HMS Victory by Sven - FINISHED - 1:600 scale
gjdale replied to Sven's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Matt, Your photography is marvellous. I know you told us before about the ColorLake app, but what are you using for the backdrops? -
Neatly thought out Danny. Just goes to show what can be achieved with a little extra thinking and planning (plus knowing the capabilities of your machinery).
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Fabulous pics and explanations there Gil. I'm studying your progress closely as my yard work preps continue.
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Wow Mobbsie, you seem to be back up to your usual building speed. She's looking tremendous mate! You mentioned having trouble getting the stern facia to stay in place - have you soaked it to help it take the bend?
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Well done David. She's looking great. As far as next steps go, I'd suggest delaying fitting the bumpkins as they are one of those things very vulnerable to snagging with a shirt sleeve etc.
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Nice addition with the hinges Sjors. I'm sure you can find a few more details to add to give you an excuse to delay your descent into Ratline purgatory!
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HMS Lizard 1697
gjdale replied to igorcap's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
That's just stunning Igor! Looking forward to seeing more of this ("in 1s and 0s", as Sarah noted!).
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