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Everything posted by gjdale
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Kevin, Nice to see your build back. If you're not happy with the gunport rope work, you might like to try "splicing" them. I picked up this tip from Gil Middleton's excellent log. You use a sewing needle to thread the line through itself and create a sort of fake splice. It is actually really easy to do and looks great.
- 1,319 replies
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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Nice going Sjors. I've consulted my crystal ball and I see ratlines in your near future - lots of them!
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Congratulations Mike on an outstanding build of a unique and interesting subject.
- 51 replies
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- turtle ship
- young modeler
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Just found your log Wim. What an interesting subject to model! Looks like you're doing a fine job. I look forward to following your build.
- 96 replies
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- Turtle Ship;
- Korean Turtle War Ship
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HMS Victory by Sven - FINISHED - 1:600 scale
gjdale replied to Sven's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just came across your log Matt. Amazing work! Very impressive indeed. -
Hi all, It seems ages since I posted some progress, though in reality it's only been a couple of weeks. Life has been pretty busy lately, between work and house guests, but I've slowly managed to make a little progress with the yards. I've now completed the basic shaping of all of the yards. Not much to tell with this part of the build - cut to length, place in lathe and sand until you've got the right taper. Fairly mind-numbing, but at least I was making sawdust again. The yokes for the Driver Boom and Gaff were an interesting proposition to make. The kit instructions would have you make each of these from two pieces of timber. I had some stock of sufficient size, so opted to make each from one piece of timber. As simple as they look, there were some interesting challenges in making these (read, I got to play with lots of my toys ). I've placed all of the yards together in the one picture below. The ship in the background gives you some indication of the relative size of these. In the picture, all of the Foremast yards are at the lower left (including the Studdingsail Booms), the Mainmast yards are in the centre at the rear, and the Mizzenmast yards are at the lower right. I still need to add some 2mm x 1mm strips to the centre section of the lower two yards for both Fore and Main masts (this gives the larger octagonal section for these yards). I then need to paint them and add all of the various fittings etc. The glacier moves!
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That's quite a difference Toni - on both counts! Your build continues to look superb. I've really enjoyed re-reading your log as you've re-posted.
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Ouch! Bad luck with the bowsprit Sarah, but as the guys have already said, you can make it even better second time around. I don't want to think about how many times I've nearly snapped the bowsprit doing the rigging on my Victory. Don't lose heart - you're doing a great job!
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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Congrats Kevin - and a week ahead of schedule too! Looking forward to more progress now!
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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Hi Mobbsie, Your idea of inserting a solid block into the tube to give support while cutting, sounds like it should work. Best of luck with that my friend! She is looking good.
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- agamemnon
- caldercraft
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Safe travels Andy. I look forward to seeing completion of Pegasus on your return.
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Nice start to the ratlines Dan. As for glue, I used white PVA diluted about 50/50 with water. It seems to have worked just fine. Good luck with the rest of it. As you say, once you get the hang of it, it's a pretty mindless task, and you'll be done before you know it. Just don't rush!
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Remco, You turn even the simplest of structures into works of art!
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- sloop
- kingfisher
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Dip? What dip? Congratulations on reaching this milestone Mobbsie, and of course on your promotion too!
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- agamemnon
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Bruce, I had only the bowsprit yards fitted when I did mine and found I was constantly knocking them when working on the foremast ratlines. Trying to tie them with all yards fitted might be asking for trouble.
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Beautiful Nico, though she looks precariously balanced on that box for the photo shoot!
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Bruce, I've just finished my ratlines. I did them as the last item of the Standing Rigging. That worked okay, but I did find the backstays various to be a bit of a nuisance. Might have been a bit easier to do them a little earlier in the build, but it's probably six of one and half a dozen of the other.
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Hey Sjors, I was just having another look at your last batch of photos. It's obvious that Anja must have taken these, because you appear in your clown suit again, doing a handstand, in the background in one of them!!!
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- occre
- san ildefonso
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Looks like you're off to a good start there Dan. Don't worry, it took me a while to get it all fixed in my head. Once you do, and after a little practice, things will speed up considerably. Don't rush it though, or you'll end up having to re-do one or more lines (guess how I know!). Don't forget to put a tiny dab of diluted white PVA glue on each knot after completing each row.
- 64 replies
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Druxey makes a good point. I forgot to mention that before tying each ratline row, I ran the thread through a damp sponge for exactly that reason (a trick embroiderers use).
- 64 replies
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Dan, I think that picture is from Danny Vadas' log of his Supply build. It certainly shows clearly how the outer clove hitches should be tied with both "tails" pointing inwards. Getting the right tension is a matter of trial and error, and lots of practice! I found that after loosely tying the hitch, I was able to hold the shroud with a pair of tweezers and then pull the hitch tight. Sometimes I found it necessary to pull the first half of the clove hitch reasonably tight first, and then do the latter part. I find this difficult to describe on words, but it is much easier in practice. Aim to get just enough tension to take out the slack in the ratline, without pulling the shrouds together. As for colour, that will come down to personal choice. We had a quite a discussion about this prior to the "crash". David Antscherl, in TFFM vol 4, says they should be the same colour as your shrouds. The current official Victory site says the ratlines are "lightly tarred", but that doesn't necessarily mean they would be black, as some tars are more of a "natural" colour. Gil Middleton did his Victory ratlines in a "natural" colour, but says on reflection he wished he'd done them black as he finds the contrast with the black shrouds somewhat distracting. It was this comment that clinched it for me in deciding to go with black. As I said, it comes down to your choice.
- 64 replies
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