Baker

First i agree with juhu

For me about sailing ships

Plastic model sailingships or wood model sailingships are a world of difference.

The (current) plastic kits are relatively "cheap" and well-detailed.
And yes, (again) many of these kits come from China or other low cost countries.

To me, some makers of wooden model ships still seem to be somewhere in the 70s or 80s (NOT all of theme).

But these models are still being built by companies that have to make a profit.

Building a wooden model of a ship. Is for many builders a dream that takes too long and never reaches the end.

A combination of wood and plastic or resine would be ideal.

Comment on your question :

Nobody says you can not do a combination of the 2 yourself.
Plastic model builders sometimes mix models from different manufacturers. And then use only the best pieces.

Expensive
But those choices are to be made.

To start, building a wooden model ship is expensive in purchase.
But considering the amount of hours spent on building a wooden model. It is relatively cheap hobby.

I found these plans of the Wilhelm in "Risse von Schiffen des 16.und 17. jahrhunderts."

There is also no explanation in the text about this.

There is also a picture of a painting.

Perhaps the former painter made a mistake.
And the designers of the drawings simply took over them
 

On my model

The space between the waterline and the underside of the cannon port = 90 cm

The space between deck and the underside of the cannon port = 70 cm

So the cannon deck = 20 cm above the waterline

Different sources all say that the height of the deck was about 160 cm (interior)

At the end of last year I had some free time to do some calculations

The buildlog about the "cannon breech rope length" Is very interesting (thanks Mark)..

I came for the master frame on my Golden Hind at this result.

2014Gresham.pdf

I agree with Chuck.
24 pounders are far too big for such a small ship.

But if you really want to place these 24 pounders. Please put them under the upper deck.
Otherwise you have an unstable ship (See my Golden Hind build log)

Looks good.
Your model looks similar to what I want to build in wood.

The transom may be too low below the water line.
 

The stempost and the forward part of the keel is made a little tapered.

The tapered part stops between the main mast and the stern

Source : The Gresham ship project

Index

Hallo,

The cannon deck is planked.

And the upper wale is placed.

Width of the gun ports is 9 to 10mm (40 to 45 cm on a real ship)

Source: Gresham Ship Project.

Index

Small update :

Planking the lower part of the hull (part two).

The entire lower part of the hull is planked.

Planking has been done using the same method as in Part 1.

Planking on the gun deck is started but not yet ready.

Next to do :

Further planking on the gun deck.

Further sanding the hull.

Make the forward part of the keel and the stempost  a little taper.

Make frames to  the upper decks in cherry wood

Etc………

Index in post 1

The length of a gun barrel does matter.

An "modern" example  is  a russian WW 2 small anti tank kanon.

The 45mm model 1937 modernised in 1942 to the model 1942 by making the barrel longer.

A longer barrel and higher load of pouwder gives a higher muzzle velocity.

This gives a longer range and a more flat trajectory to a projectile that has  same weight.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/45_mm_anti-tank_gun_M1937_(53-K)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/45_mm_anti-tank_gun_M1942_(M-42)

So these long cannons on the upper deck could be used to hit an object at a longer distance.

The gun crew  could " safely " lean out over the bulwarks to clean and reload  them offboard as they were still away from the enemy

I hope my explanation in "google english" Is understandable.

And i may be completely wrong with this theory.

But this is the thinking of a military modeler. Who has more experience with anti tank guns than with 17th century shipcannons.

Michael,

Thank you for the explanation and photos.
These holes are at such a vertical angle that they are indeed more suitable for cannons instead of seats of ease.

Michael

There is something I'm curious about.

Somewhere I've read that the four round holes in the transom served as seats of ease.

But on your model there are four cannons through these holes.

Went looking in your buildlog
And found this (old) photo from the transom

( i think page 30)

Great rigging Michael.

And about the lack of space for the cannons on the upper deck.

On the 1/10 model in the museum the long cannons are now placed on deck.

How could they ever load these cannons?

Picture is from the www.Vasamuseet

thanks Chris and Christian

My way of construction is indeed not as seen in most buildlogs.
And it takes a bit longer.

The ultimate goal is to build a model as realistic as possible.

And thank you Zoltan.

The book you advised me to buy will be very useful for the further construction of this model.

Thanks Michael,

I'm glad to be in your memory files

The combination of plywood frames and filler blocks indeed gives a solid hull

I remember the problems I had with my Vasa planking where I only had frames and no experience in planking...

It was then that I said. Grrr... planking a wooden hull Never again

For me, on the lower part of the hull, it takes  the same amount of time to place filler blocks instead of a first planking.

And  filler blocks are in my opinion better.

Errors can easily be sanded. And you have a solid basis to bend the planks.

1. Make plank in the right shape.
2. Soak them well in water
3. Clamp them onto the hull and allow to dry
4. Remove them, ad glue on the plank, clamp them on the hull and let dry.
5. Finish

The planks are always bent correctly and no expensive tools are required.

Thanks to everyone for following and likes

Index on page 1

Planking the lower part of the hull (part one).

First i have read the articles about planking.

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

I have tried to follow the rules for planking a model ship as much as possible.

To everyone who helped with this articles, they were very helpful.

Thank you very much !! 

Following the information found the planks were 4.2 to 5.2 meters long

The average  thickness is 7 cm

The width varied between  36 and 48 cm

The widest planks were located at the bottom of the hull

Source : the Gresham ship project

Planking in progress

Ready for sanding

A first sanding is done  with sandpaper  grain 60.

Halfway in planking the lower part of the hull.

In part 2 the other half

Index on page 1

It seems that the Dutch were ahead of the English in the early 17th century

In 1604 an Englishman complained

That an English merchantship  of 100 tons needed a crew of 30 men. 

A Dutch merchantship of 100 tons needed only 10 men.

Building and rigging a ship the Dutch way in the 17th century :
Keep it simple but good.
You need fewer people
You make more profit.

Source : Het schip (The ship) by Bjorn Landstrom.

Ps,

If you have an employer (the king of Sweden). Who wants Halfway the build  a bigger ship with more cannons.
Then this view is not correct.
Then you get a badly built ship that sinks....

Thank you for your visit.

My way of building a wooden model ship may not always be the usual method.

That's because I've been busy with plastic model building all my life.

The goal remains the same

Try to build a model of a ship, tank, cannon or airplane as good as possible.

Planking Goes slow but steady.

This is the part of the building that I do not like to do.

So it will take a while.

Installing the power tools  out doors does not take to long
And the cleaning is very easy
Blow all the dust away with my aircompressor haha

As always.

Great job with the rigging.

Great car
My fastest drive.
200km / h (about 124 miles) in Germany on the autobahn with our Z4.

Grrr. only 6 miles less  

haha

Hallo,

I made wales and extra planks.

Wales are 5mm wide and 3.5mm thick.

These dimensions are slightly too large compared to shipwrecks .

After several attempts for bending the wales. I gave up ..

cold water, hot water, very hot water, steaming.

Ramin 5mm at 3.5mm will simply not bend enough.

So plan B.

The front part of the wale at the bow  is hand sawed from a solid piece of ramin.

And is glued.

The rest of the wale is then also be glued into place.

The scarf joints between the loose pieces of the wale will be imitated.

I don’t have the proper tools too make good scarf joints

So, This method  works more easily and will look pretty good once finished.

Wale N ° 1is attached.

The wales are painted black before glueing  and sanded after .

Now planking has started.

The planks are first soaked in water.

Are then clamped onto the model until they are dry.

Then they are glued.

Wale and plank info : The Gresham  Ship project

Index

Michael : thanks

Cristian :

Most of the info i found came from the internet and is printed as a pdf. and i have some books.

Good and correct information about this period is sparse.

Things too look for with google about  shipbuilding in the late 16th century :

"Red bay shipwreck" : the San Juan, a Spanish Galleon.

"albaola.com" a modern shipyard that makes a replica of the San Juan.

 Gresham shipwreck" or "Princess channel shipwreck"

"English shipbuilding 16th century"

Some links on the internet :

http://um.gipuzkoakultura.net/pdf/loewe.pdf

http://www.albaola.com/en/site/building-process

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf

http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf

http://www.patrimoniocultural.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf

http://www.bricksite.com/uf/40000_49999/48372/7e570040536647340b5566f37c70ca11.pdf

This is very interesting.

"The Gresham ship project".

I can not make a internetlink for this. But it can be found and saved on the pc or printed for free.

The new lay out for the wales.

There is a good chance this will be the final layout.

Index

Thanks.
This Apprentice has a good master.
(The one that is now building a model of the Vasa)

And with a little help from my friends on MSW !!

Ps, What  are, is  "Kudos"

Thanks to the extra Images which I received from Cristian (Thanks).

We can conclude that the bottom wale was located above the waterline.

Actually, if we look closely at the picture of Mathew Baker.

Then we can even determine where it was located on the hull.

On the model

The depth (waterline) is half of the width of the master frame.

So 15cm 2 = 7.5cm.

(I found this information somewhere in one of the studies of shipbuilding of this period. The depth should be approximately be the half of the width of the master frame.)

The lowest point of the wale on the model is calculated and is at 7.6cm.

0.1 cm above the waterline on the model.

After making more planks and wales start I will start planking the hull.

Maybe this weekend.
if my free time allows it

Nice work

I would also not feel myself "at ease" at the seats of ease.