Baker

Hello

 

The upper ends of the frames are provided with supports.

So that they can be less easily damaged.

 

 

 

I started with the filling of the lower space of the frames ( i think "fillerbloks" is the correct word). 

Wooden pieces are sawn to length.

 

 

These pieces are then made at approximately the right shape.

 

 

 

And glued between the frames

 

 

A few frames also had to be adjusted. 

One side is filled up, and can be sanded.

 

One side is sanded

 

I used this machine to sand the rough shape

 

 

Some  test planking is attached (looks ok)

 

 

The frame of the stern has been modified and should now have better shape (thanks druxey).

 

One side is done and seems to have the proper shape below the waterline

 

One side to go.

 

 

 

 

Ps,

I had picture uploade problems, see :

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15445-images-size-fixed-at-12-px/

 

Groetjes 

Greetings

 

 

Greetings from Belgium

 

Greetings from Belgium

 

Well done.

Enjoy the beer
Cheers.

groetjes

Greetings

 

Thanks,

 

 

index see post 1

 

Groetjes

Greetings

 

 

 

 

 

When one side is finished there will be A more detailed update.

 

 

Greetings from Belgium.

 

 

 

A few examples are there in "The art of shipwright" from Matthew baker.

 

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf

 

 

 

 

Groetjes

Greetings

 

Hello

 

Hallo,

First.

A replica is build of the Spanish galleon San Juan.

Great site and beautiful work

http://www.albaola.com/en

 

Now : The  orlop deck, planking and hatches

Most of this deck will not be visible when the ship is ready.

I see this work as an exercise to gain experience in deck planking.

And if someone looks through a cannon port or a hatch. This will give a better view.

 

There are little or no archaeological finds of decks from English galleons.

Only from one ship wreck.

 

 

 

One frame was cut out to low. this was adjusted.

 

 

A first layer of planks is laid and sanded. In order to obtain an even surface

 

 

The waterway is been placed.

 

 

A possible layout of the deck

There may be only 12 cannons installed instead of 14 (the helm can possibly be in the way)

 

 

hatches to the lower cargo space

 

 

Every time I looked at frame 1. I got a headache ....

 

 

So frame 1 was improved.

Much better now. No more headache

 

 

The second and final layer of planking is placed and sanded.

I was so absorbed in this work that I forgot to take pictures while planking the deck

 

 

Now to to the dummy frames that will be visible in this deck

1 test assembly of frames and a gun port was made

 

 

I'll just lay one  layer of planks on the hull

So

The next step is to fill the space between the lower part of the frames.

And adjust the frame of the transom

 

Kurt,

 

I started building the Golden Hind.

 

In particular, it looks that the shape of the underside of the hull is important.

Look at the links on my build log of the Golden Hind.

 

 

Or, just ask.

I try to do my best to reply (But I'm not a specialist   )

 

There will by an update of my buildlog soon .

 

 

Here's a picture in preview

 

Groetjes

Greetings

 

Patrick

Thanks,

Visiting the Batavia is on my wish list.

Maybe next year.

Index : see post 1

Groetjes

Greetings 

Patrick

Thanks for the info about the stern.

have checked this and will certainly change this later

 

the book looks interesting.

I ask it for my Christmas at the Admiral.

 

 

Now,

The whole idea behind my question about the height of the deck

I want  open cannon ports

And I don’t like the building method as in my Wasa (black holes with semi cannons).

 

That's why I want a deck with enough detail. So, that if you look through a porthole. You do not see black hole with a part of a cannon. But a real cannon and a deck.

 

I hired an assistant. He is 1m60 tall, very cheap and is satisfied with no room and no food.

But. A deck of only 1m60, is too low he thinks .

 

but there is still plenty of time to think about this

 

 

And good news

Yesterday we had beautiful weather and no family visits or jobs

So, there was wood sawed and the part where te deck is too be attached is sanded to

 

So that I can start with my deck in my hobby room. Without having to make a lot of dust...

 

Groetjes

Greetings

Backer

Thanks everyone for following  my build log.

 

And thanks Steven to match with my vision on the dimensions.

 

Well, now I need some help.

I can not find what  the height of the cannon deck (orlop deck) should by.

Does anyone know the height between 2 decks

I think it is 1m60 (The average length of a man in the 16th century)

 

 

Groetjes

Greetings

Patrick

Well, even Wikipedia does not match

wikipedia (in english): length (deck) 31m, beam : 6.1m, tonnage 100 - 150 ton

wikipedia (in german): length 37m, beam : 5.5m, tonnage ,? ton

Most sources say 100 and 120 tons. Occasionally 150tons, and somewhereone I found one

 that says 180 tons. 

The length is between 31 and 37 m.Length on deck 25m. 

So no one really knows the right answer.

 

2. What is the scale that I'm going to build? 

And what will be the dimensions and tonnage of the Golden Hind compared too  the scale i am building

After some calculations. The scale of my model will be 1/45.

Too calculate the scale and dimensions i used the help from a formula.

Keel x Beam x Depth                                                                          Keel x Beam x Depth

 

-----------------------------    = Tonnage        or  (the easy way)            ---------------------------

Keel + Beam + Depth                                                                                100

 

And 1m = 3.28 feet.

My model is : 

Keel 0.42m - Beam 0.15m - Depth 0.075m  - scale 1/45

Keel = 0.42x45x3.28 = 61.99 feet

Beam = 0.15x45x3.28 =  22.14 feet

Depth = .075x45x3.28 = 11.07 feet

This gives following dimensions

• Tonnage : 161 tons or 154 tons with the easy formula. 
• Length on deck will be : 22.95m  = 75.27 feet
• Length of the hull will be  32.6 m =  106,92 feet
• Overall length will be : 37 m =  121.36 feet
• width of the hull will be : 6.75 m =  22.14 feet
• Depth will be : 3.37m = 11.07 feet
• ratio keel / beam : 2.8

 

By reducing the beam and - or depth.

Suppose :

Keel = 0.42x45x3.28 = 61.99 feet

Beam = 0.13x45x3.28 =  19.19feet

Depth = .065x45x3.28 = 9.6 feet

This gives 113 tons or 114 tons with the easy formula.

But in doing so, the ratio keel / beam changes to 3.23 

If you compare the studies about the Gresham ship, furring and ship building in the 16th century.

Than a keel/beam ratio of 3.23 leads almost to a “crank ship”

A logical consequence is that a ship of that length with 100 to 120 tons is quite narrow and maybe not stable. Especially if you then put all the guns on the upper deck. As on some ship models.

Unless one increases the depth drastically. in order to increase the stability.

I was never a highly educated student (now also not). But :

A ship that could sail around the world and could conquer a bigger Spanish galleon. Must be seaworthy and should by a stable platform to fire his guns.

If anyone thinks that I am completely wrong about this

Please let me know. I have all winter to think about it

 

used links for this study

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf

http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf

http://www.patrimoniocultural.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf

http://www.bricksite.com/uf/40000_49999/48372/7e570040536647340b5566f37c70ca11.pdf

 

Groetjes

Greetings 

Patrick

 

• The decals will probably fall apart if you put them in water.
  
• The plastic looks ok. But if it is from a "short run" manufacturing. then The quality will be very low.
  
• You will want, or need to replace many parts (Extra cost).
  

Hello,

First. I changed the name of my build log in too

“Golden Hind : A English galleon late 16th century”   (Seems more appropriate)

New frames are drawn on paper and cut out.

There are now more frames used on the bow and the stern than first planned

 

Then the frames are drawn on plywood and sawed. The beam is 4 cm narrower than the one on the plans.

The hull proportions are

KEEL / BEAM : 2.80

DEPTH / BEAM : 0.50

 

All the frames are made too high ( sawing off a piece of is easier than to glueing on)

 

Reinforcements are sawn from plywood and glued to the keel.

 

The frames are not glued yet. But  are now temporarily attached to the keel. So  i can see if they fit and that outside can be sanded where needed.

When the outside is sanded, the frames are removed again so that the inside of the frames can be sawed out.

 

The sawing of the inside of the frames can begin.

I made myself  a simple tool for this .

 

The first frames are aligned and glued.

 

All the frames are now aligned and glued.

 

Visible parts of the frames on the upper decks will later be replaced by solid wood.

It looks like I go in the right direction I think.

 

The shipyard is now temporarily "on hold"

Autumn and winter period is for me : military modeling.

But I remain of course to follow MSW.

 

Groetjes

Greetings

Patrick