Baker

Thanks,

Visiting the Batavia is on my wish list.

Maybe next year.

Index : see post 1

Groetjes

Greetings 

Patrick

Thanks for the info about the stern.

have checked this and will certainly change this later

the book looks interesting.

I ask it for my Christmas at the Admiral.

Now,

The whole idea behind my question about the height of the deck

I want  open cannon ports

And I don’t like the building method as in my Wasa (black holes with semi cannons).

That's why I want a deck with enough detail. So, that if you look through a porthole. You do not see black hole with a part of a cannon. But a real cannon and a deck.

I hired an assistant. He is 1m60 tall, very cheap and is satisfied with no room and no food.

But. A deck of only 1m60, is too low he thinks .

but there is still plenty of time to think about this

And good news

Yesterday we had beautiful weather and no family visits or jobs

So, there was wood sawed and the part where te deck is too be attached is sanded to

So that I can start with my deck in my hobby room. Without having to make a lot of dust...

Groetjes

Greetings

Backer

Thanks everyone for following  my build log.

And thanks Steven to match with my vision on the dimensions.

Well, now I need some help.

I can not find what  the height of the cannon deck (orlop deck) should by.

Does anyone know the height between 2 decks

I think it is 1m60 (The average length of a man in the 16th century)

Groetjes

Greetings

Patrick

Well, even Wikipedia does not match

wikipedia (in english): length (deck) 31m, beam : 6.1m, tonnage 100 - 150 ton

wikipedia (in german): length 37m, beam : 5.5m, tonnage ,? ton

Most sources say 100 and 120 tons. Occasionally 150tons, and somewhereone I found one

 that says 180 tons. 

The length is between 31 and 37 m.Length on deck 25m. 

So no one really knows the right answer.

2. What is the scale that I'm going to build? 

And what will be the dimensions and tonnage of the Golden Hind compared too  the scale i am building

After some calculations. The scale of my model will be 1/45.

Too calculate the scale and dimensions i used the help from a formula.

Keel x Beam x Depth                                                                          Keel x Beam x Depth

-----------------------------    = Tonnage        or  (the easy way)            ---------------------------

Keel + Beam + Depth                                                                                100

And 1m = 3.28 feet.

My model is : 

Keel 0.42m - Beam 0.15m - Depth 0.075m  - scale 1/45

Keel = 0.42x45x3.28 = 61.99 feet

Beam = 0.15x45x3.28 =  22.14 feet

Depth = .075x45x3.28 = 11.07 feet

This gives following dimensions

• Tonnage : 161 tons or 154 tons with the easy formula. 
• Length on deck will be : 22.95m  = 75.27 feet
• Length of the hull will be  32.6 m =  106,92 feet
• Overall length will be : 37 m =  121.36 feet
• width of the hull will be : 6.75 m =  22.14 feet
• Depth will be : 3.37m = 11.07 feet
• ratio keel / beam : 2.8

By reducing the beam and - or depth.

Suppose :

Keel = 0.42x45x3.28 = 61.99 feet

Beam = 0.13x45x3.28 =  19.19feet

Depth = .065x45x3.28 = 9.6 feet

This gives 113 tons or 114 tons with the easy formula.

But in doing so, the ratio keel / beam changes to 3.23 

If you compare the studies about the Gresham ship, furring and ship building in the 16th century.

Than a keel/beam ratio of 3.23 leads almost to a “crank ship”

A logical consequence is that a ship of that length with 100 to 120 tons is quite narrow and maybe not stable. Especially if you then put all the guns on the upper deck. As on some ship models.

Unless one increases the depth drastically. in order to increase the stability.

I was never a highly educated student (now also not). But :

A ship that could sail around the world and could conquer a bigger Spanish galleon. Must be seaworthy and should by a stable platform to fire his guns.

If anyone thinks that I am completely wrong about this

Please let me know. I have all winter to think about it

used links for this study

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf

http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf

http://www.patrimoniocultural.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf

http://www.bricksite.com/uf/40000_49999/48372/7e570040536647340b5566f37c70ca11.pdf

Groetjes

Greetings 

Patrick

• The decals will probably fall apart if you put them in water.
  
• The plastic looks ok. But if it is from a "short run" manufacturing. then The quality will be very low.
  
• You will want, or need to replace many parts (Extra cost).
  

Hello,

First. I changed the name of my build log in too

“Golden Hind : A English galleon late 16th century”   (Seems more appropriate)

New frames are drawn on paper and cut out.

There are now more frames used on the bow and the stern than first planned

Then the frames are drawn on plywood and sawed. The beam is 4 cm narrower than the one on the plans.

The hull proportions are

KEEL / BEAM : 2.80

DEPTH / BEAM : 0.50

All the frames are made too high ( sawing off a piece of is easier than to glueing on)

Reinforcements are sawn from plywood and glued to the keel.

The frames are not glued yet. But  are now temporarily attached to the keel. So  i can see if they fit and that outside can be sanded where needed.

When the outside is sanded, the frames are removed again so that the inside of the frames can be sawed out.

The sawing of the inside of the frames can begin.

I made myself  a simple tool for this .

The first frames are aligned and glued.

All the frames are now aligned and glued.

Visible parts of the frames on the upper decks will later be replaced by solid wood.

It looks like I go in the right direction I think.

The shipyard is now temporarily "on hold"

Autumn and winter period is for me : military modeling.

But I remain of course to follow MSW.

Groetjes

Greetings

Patrick

The hull under the water line will be painted later and they will be hardly visible. 

Now we can begin with the frames.

The length and width dimensions between keel, beam and waterline are( fore me) wrong.

They have already been sawed. But shall end as firewood for the stove.

New frames will be made 

A new (paper) frame has approximately the right shape and proportions.

Groetjes

Greetings

Patrick

Looks great!

Do you have enough magnums ??      

Greetings

Patrick

Thank you all,

Cristian

Now, on with the stem.

More pieces are sawed and glued.

After drying, the whole piece is sanded a first time.

 

Now the paper keel is glued to wooden keel

And after this , the grooves for the frames can be sawed out

Fillerbloks

Balcony, doors and windows

Beakhead

Channels and installing cannons

Fore and rearcastle

Rearcastle interior

Forecastle interior + stove

Capstan

Anchors

Planking

transom

Transom upper part

Lower hull

cannon deck

Upper hull

Forcastle

Treenails

Treenails 2

Painting

Hull

On the internet there are plans . They are of Aeropiccola, an Italian company that no longer exists. 

I think the scale is abouth 1/50

 

http://www.john-tom.com/SailBoatPlans/GoldenHind/golden_hindSm.pdf

 

They looked great in the beginning.But the more I look at them, the less good they begin look ...

It seems as if the hull is too wide and the shape of the frames dont match the shape from those of Matthew Baker (A well-known shipbuilder from this period) 

 

But :

It looks like nobody knows If this  ship was a real "race galleon" or just an armed merchantman (privateer). 

 

Before we start

Were the guns placed below dek or on the dek?

I believe that all the guns were lined up below deck. And not on the deck  like with most Golden Hind models.

Guns on the deck may cause an unstable ship . And on the models there is not enough room to absorb the recoil of the guns and too reload them.

 

 

So

Mi first step is to try to build a hull with:

A shape that has enough space to absorb the recoil of guns. But is not too wide

Has place for 14 cannons below deck

Has 2 light guns in the forecastle.

Has 4 light cannons in the rear castle.

Apparently it looks if there is only one ship wreck from this period is found. Called "the Princess Channel wreck” or “the Gresham ship”

In this period many newly built ships were so unstable that the hull had to be adjusted immediately. With the aid of Girdling: (making  the hull wider at the water line). Or furring ( make the  hull below the waterline wider). Actual evidence of this was found in the Gresham ship.

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf

Even on the replica of the Golden Hind the hull is widened at the waterline.

 

 

I use plywood, ramin ( the pieces of ramin wood are old leftovers from construction works in our house 20 years ago) an cherry wood (from a tree that came from the garden)

And the keel of the Golden Hind was laid on a sunny day the 10th of september.

 

Thanks for the positive comments

All reservations are free of charge 

Excellent, as always.

Patrick

I have attached the plans from Billing Boats on my build log.

If you can use them, feel free to download them.

Patrick

BB490 Wasa_Instruction-2-min.pdf

BB490%20Wasa_Instruction-min.pdf

Hello everyone

Jan,

I Hope you find our Belgian beers delicious

I stick to maximum two beers. Otherwise I have always a hangover the morning 

well,

The lantern is fixed on the ship

It is not a plan or a plan b

But something in the middle.

After three unsuccessful attempts to make wings for my angels. I decided that my angels will remain wingless.

I had reached my limits in scratch building.

On my lantern I have used figures in 1/72 scale.

Therefore, there is not enough space between two figures to put wings on them.

But,

I found pictures of a lantern on the Duth VOC ship The Batavia (build in 1627-1628).

Here is shown a lantern with approximately the same figures, but without the wings.

Wasa and Batavia are both build by  a dutch master

So why not go further with this example, I decided.

So if someone wants to build my lantern with angels and wings.

Make the lantern wider or use figures in scale 1/87

Any figures that you want to use, use figures without helmet. Saves a lot of work!!

I have attached a pdf with a drawing

Dimensions are in mm (1 millimeter = 0.0393700787 inches)

(Extra small details in plastic strip are applied on the lantern)

Painting is gold and gun metal)

schets lantaarn.pdf

The rudder is fixed  with rope and the anchors are in place

Now it is searching for flags and attach them. And then the model should be finished.

For now it's back to military modeling. And in the meanwhile think what model ship I'm going to build hereafter.

Patrick

A few drinks a day, keeps the heat away 

New Belgian way of life .....    

And I might have luck with the lantern 

1. Base coat :Gun Metal X10 + Flat base X21
2. Let dry for 24h 
3. Apply a wash with a mixture of "home made" rust paint : Desert sand XF59 + Red Brown XF64 + thinner + water
4. Let dry for 24h 
5. Attach the wire around the ring of the anchor
6. Applay a wash with a mixture of Flat black XF1 + thinner + water
7. Let dry for 24h and ready

They will be attached later on the model.

Patrick