petervisser

Hi Popeye,

I bought this model from Kip (Sawdust) a few years ago for $200. I know it sounds like alot, but he also threw in Longridge's book and a set of Campbell drawings. He purchased the kit which was in the very early stages of construction from a former neighbour for two bottles of wine. Hey, wait a minute, maybe I did pay too much! But not really. When I think of the many many happy hours I will spend putting this kit together means that the money was well spent. And it keeps me off the streets...

Peter

Hi Popeye,

Thanks for the likes and the comment. Yes, I've been following your Thermopylae and don't envy the scale you have to work with. As you know, I have built a few Billing kits and they tend to be 1:50 scale. It's a scale I'm comfortable with and the fittings are easier to see and work with. Anyway your build is looking mighty fine all the same!

Peter

Great flag locker Steve. I went the same route on my own Bounty. Funny that Billing does not include this feature in the kit. Oh well, nice save!

I remember using the cannons as supplied by the kit, as I didn't know any better, and they did turn out ok, with some paint and rigging. I went with buff coloured carriages, again because I didn't know any better... 

Anyhoo, hope you're satisfied with the replacements. I've been following your build from the wings and reliving my own time taking on this kit. Thanks for all the photos.

Peter

Just a quick update with the steering gear box finished. I purchased a photo etch sheet produced by Mantua for the decoration sets on the bow and stern. It also included the name plates that are afixed to the sides of the box, which make for a nice addition.

As mentioned earlier, I have decided to get as much prep work done while there is no deck or hull planking. This makes everything easier to access. So the next operation was to step the masts. This was a bit of a nail biter, because everything had to be gotten right the first time. I am happy to say that it did for the mizzen and main mast. However things went sideways with the foremast because there wasn't enough clearance under the drill bit when the model was positioned on the drill press table. Hence the collars at the base of the masts to hide the "whoops" around the base of the foremast.

 I managed to clamp the model on the drill press and adjust the model transversely and adjust the drill press table longitudinally to allow for the rake. I found the rakes for the masts in Longridge's book "The Cutty Sark" and used a digital protractor I purchased from Lee Valley. With everything in place and securely clamped I simply had to turn on the drill. As mentioned this worked for the main and mizzen masts. The foremast did not work so well, and I have to confess there was some foul language used.

At any rate, the mast collars on the deck hid any messy hole drilling and all is well in my little world. Here are some pics of the progress...

Here is the collection of deck furniture that wa assembled this week. I have yet to put some varathane on everything. I am waiting to finish the companionway before I do that. The pig sty and paint locker aren't that detailed. Because they are hidden under the fo'csle deck, I didn't spend alot of time detailing them.

Peter

I never would have guessed when I started this hobby that I would ever have to build chicken coops for a model I was constructing. But hey, this hobby takes us down many roads and the birds have to go somewhere I guess... The Billing kit does include these little sub-assemblies, but again they are printed on an ancient sheet of mahogany and so I had to go with Plan B in assembling them. Here's how I did it...

They were actually fun to build and turned out ok. I can't wait to see them installed on the model.

Peter

The heads which attach to the sty and paint locker were then constructed. Billing supply small plugs that can then be faced with a suitable veneer. I have lots of scrap wood for that. Again, they are built slightly oversize on the outboard side for later trimage...

Thanks guys for the encouraging comments. They have not gone unnoticed.

Work resumed in the ole dockyard this past week. It was spent building more components of the deck furniture in the forecastle area of the ship. I noticed that although the old kit included the paint locker and pig sty under the fo'csle deck, the modern instructions don't include them. Oh well, I thought I would build them anyway. there were some interesting angles and I built them somewhat oversize on the outboard sides, so they could be trimmed just before the hull planking is installed. Here then are some progress pictures...

I measured the angles for the various sides first which could then be transferred directly to the little table saw I have. The square stock would then be used as a suitable backing for the bulkheads faces.

Hi Glen, and welcome to MSW. I was excited to see your post because I built this model some time ago and have not seen it since. You are very lucky to have acquired such a unique kit. Mine was built pre-MSW and pre-internet, truth be told, so I built it much as Mr. Billing intended it. It is to this day, my favourite model that I have built. The lines of the hull and sail plan are a thing of beauty. The kit and instructions are pretty straightforward so you shouldn't have any issues. As you mentioned, the original wood may have to be replaced. My kit contained obechi wood and some mahogany strips, so my kit was an '80's version that I built when it was new. I shall follow along on your build log and re-live my time building this kit.

I wish you all the best and many hours of enjoyment.

Cheers,

Peter

p.s. Thanks for posting the photos of the actual ship.

And here are the finished products of just some of the deck furniture.

The model building will now have a short hiatus while I go back to work...

Happy modelling!

Peter

Work continues on the deck houses...

The hatches were also constructed along with the deck houses. These were pretty simple to construct as can be seen by the photos.

I dispensed with using the printed "hatch covers" and made my own hatch boards.

I then painted the hatch boards and booby hatch top before adding some trim to simulate coamings.

Plan B. I decided to fabricate the deck houses using plywood bulkheads, but utilise the printed deckhouse tops, as there was not issue with them. Enter the MicroMark table saw. It sure was handy cutting the panels used for the sides of the deck houses. In the past, I used a ruler and Xacto knives. Not the best...

Stay tuned, more tomorrow.

Peter

Contrary to popular belief, I am still involved in model boat building. I took a long break over the summer months, and then once I got going again, held off posting until I had something to show.

I have decided to alter my construction order somewhat. In the past, the decking and hull planking were the first orders of business, once the bulkheads were attached to the keel. With this build I decided to complete the deck houses and hatchways first. This is because I have access to so much and the bulwarks and hull planks are not in the way. Once these are completed and the deck furniture is prepped, I will then plank the decks and then the hull.

Here then are some fruits of labour. First of all, I was to discover that the 50 year old wood is not as moist and pliable as it once was. I am trying to use as much of the original kit as possible, only because this is what Mr. Billing provided. However, I soon learned that this might not be possible as the photos show. The wood was only too eager to split and crack.

These are the original sheets provided with the outlines of the deck house components inked on.

Because there was so much flex involved along the grain of the wood, I suspected that the sheet might split. Therefore a couple of battens were glued to the edges of the sheet to prevent it from doing so. A waste of time and glue as it turned out...

I then attempted to cut out the panels and include the 3D aspect of the wood panelling. It didn't take long to realize that the exercise was hopeless. But hey, I had to try.

Hi Steve,

Great work on your Bounty! Lots of progress made and the results are very nice indeed. The hull planking is especialy good, considering the bluff bow is a challenge. I once read that the white applied to the bottom of the hull was some kind of coating to discourage marine growth. Quite toxic in fact. I don't know how effective it was. I like the white too and used it on my Unicorn.

Anyhoo, thanks for all the great photos, and I'll continue to follow your log.

Peter

Hi Steve,

I've just stumbled onto you log and have really enjoyed watching the progress so far. I have built the older version of this Billing kit years ago, and seeing your log takes me back. I have also noted some of the building techniques you practice, and I'm hoping to get some ideas. You have some obvious talent as a carpenter. I have just subscribed to your log and look forward to following your progress.

I would be interested to learn your plank tapering technique. I have used an xacto knife and sanding block in the past, but your method looks professional. If it's easy to explain I would really like to hear about it.

Ahhhhh, I just looked back at your tapering technique and I think I figured it out! That is slick! Now I just have to look back at your plank cutting jig...

Happy building!

Peter

Hi Primey,

I'm a user of copper tape for my copper bottomed hulls. I have used it on my Bounty and E'toile with satisfying results. Being an adhesive tape, there's no glue involved so it's quick and easy. I'm a fan of "quick and easy".

The tape is also thin enough that a rebate is not necessary.

Hope this is a help.

Cheers,

Peter

Hi Primey,

I just ran across your CS log and just wanted to chime in on your great planking work so far. I am also a Cutty Sark builder so I'd like to follow along. It will be interesting to see the materials and fittings supplied with the kit as your build log progresses. The wood looks to be in great shape for such an old kit. I have never heard of this kit manufacturer, and I suspect you're the only member on the site with this kit. A unique build log, to be sure!

Have fun!

Peter

Too true Patrick. I also have an old Billing kit and have been replacing the old warped wood with newer material. However, having built several Billing models, I can say that talented builders like yourself can bring out the best in them. It just takes a little extra care and attention.

Cheers,

Peter

Stunning model Patrick. I think we can put the debate of poor model quality by Billing to rest. You have built a lovely model so far.

Thanks for all the photos.

Peter

Your model looks fantastic Jens. A real inspiration to get the lead out in my own shipyard.

Thanks for all the updates and photos.

Peter

Fantastico Mark! What a bruiser of a ship, once you see the size of the hull.

Thanks for the update. Very inspiring.

Peter

I'm really enjoying your build log Mark. You have taken great photos and it is a pleasure to look at your work.

I can't wait to start my own Royal William. With three amazing build logs to go by on the site, it should be a piece of cake....just kidding!

Looking forward to more posts!

Peter

Time to add the railing to the cabintop...

I made the railings to measure in the model and then removed them for painting.

That just about does it for this part of the build. Now onto other deck structures....