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Robin Lous

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Everything posted by Robin Lous

  1. Robin Lous
    Thanks guys...it's either the Kolderstok Duyfken or the Dusek Trireme. Dunno yet, Robin
  2. Robin Lous
    OC is back!
  3. Robin Lous
    Thanks HOF Well...rigging... All the lines tied to the pinrails. I must now make nice looking bundles and loops of the rest of the lines. I also must find a way to get the 8 loose hanging lines underneath the sail to hang down and cut them to the right lenght after that. When done I need to make a work stand to get the oars at the same height. Oars soon...oh my...so looking forward to see the oars in place. And all the sudden I must start thinking about a next build...still undecided. Exciting! More soon, Robin
  4. Robin Lous
    Sadly I don't have a higher resolution image of the oar plan, but....the lenght of the oars are 9 and 9,5 cubits. A cubit is 45,72cm. What I read about the testing of oars for the Olympias reproduction trieres...9,5 cubits is about the maximum practical lenght one oarsman can handle (with the wooden counterweight). Also note...they changed the shape of the blades to the teardrop shape you have, because they perform better on a calm sea. The staight blades are more suitable on a rougher sea, but need strong and highly trained oarsmen to perform well with. The Olympias trials were done with volunteers. I think your oars look wonderful and I wouldn't change them!
  5. Robin Lous
    The yard is fixed to the mast... 3 bloks involved. 1 on the yard and 2 on the mast. Like this... With so many lines involved, I'm not sure when to secure a rope to the pinrail. I'm afraid when I fix a line it might slack after I fixed the next...or next...or the one after that. I guess there's a lot to adjust later on. I keep the glue away until I know what will happen. And I have no clue what will happen. More soon...scary stuff this! Robin
  6. Robin Lous
    A agree with HOF. Also a nice way to stay involved on the forum...until your next ship build. Robin
  7. Robin Lous
    Wow! that's beautiful! Robin
  8. Robin Lous
    In the ancient world the counterweigt was thicker wood (inboard) between the loom and the handle. Used on long oars pulled by a single oarsman. This was not used when the oars were pulled by 2 or more oarsmen. Likely the oars with 2 or more oarsmen had no counterweight...or the lead counterweight. The Amati bireme is a bit of a problem. On the box it says "Greek bireme 480BC", but it's clearly a later type of bireme. Probably not in use before 300BC...certainly not in use at the time of the battle of Salamis. This type of ship might have 2 or 3 oarsmen per oar, but I'm not sure about that.
  9. Robin Lous
    Always use a primer before painting. Tamiya and Mr.Surfacer spay cans are very good. It's recommended to clean resin parts with a mild soap before painting.
  10. Robin Lous
    Thanks OC! After 8 hours on the shipyard I finished the last construction part of the build. The outer railing... I decided not to make the sun roof, because I think it won't make it any nicer. What's left to do is already pre fabricated. The yards with all the rigging attached to it, the oars and the steering oars. Oh..wait...I still need to make a base. Yard is next...more soon. Robin
  11. Robin Lous
    Beautiful! Nice to see something different...love the lanterns btw Robin
  12. Robin Lous
    This is the best invention since when someone figured out how to make wine! Robin
  13. Robin Lous
    Little progress (but glad it's done). The 5 blocks in the top of the mast. Was a pain to attach the line running down from the mast to the tiny pin rail. And it was an outright nightmare to neatly loop the rest of the rope and make it look okeyish. 3 more lines will come down there when the yard goes on. Not looking forward to that, but I had a bit of practise doing this one, so ...uhm..pfff! But...before I do the yard, I'll make the rope railing on the outside. 6 (fairly short) stanchions per side...1 rope per side only. And again....I can take a good look at the Olkas. I can't thank Messis enough for the Olkas photo's! I must do this before the yard, because I have to drill small holes in the top of the frames to pin the stanchions. More soon, Robin
  14. Robin Lous
    Welcome to the secret brotherhood of oar nutters.
  15. Robin Lous
    Good to see you're back OC! It's what you said...make the best of it and take it easy. Robin
  16. Robin Lous
    Very nice job! Your oars look great. Robin
  17. Robin Lous
    Thanks gentlemen! Carl...2 clewlines and 8 buntlines go from the yard to the "large" pinrail aft. And the 2 brace and 2 sheetlines....3 more to hoist the yard and 1 for a flag or to get a crewmember up. So...that's 18...or so. Something like this... Robin
  18. Robin Lous
    With the stays done... The yard... This jigsaw puzzle will keep me busy for a while. Robin
  19. Robin Lous
  20. Robin Lous
    Thanks! The kit came without a colour scheme. I did a lot of research...and used my imagination. There isn't much to rely on really. Some Greek black pottery images, Homer mentioned black bowed ships and some shipyard records about the use of resin and pine tar. Most artist impressions you see in books are pure fantasy, so there is very little you can trust. Most helpful to me are the reconstructions of the Argo (pentakontor), Olkas (trade ship) and Olympias (trieres). Most of my modifications come from the 3 ships. I'm not saying my modifications and colours are right, but they're plausible. The Dusek kit is very good imho, a bit basic though. Robin
  21. Robin Lous
    Fantastic build! Great pe handling and I love the shading of the paint. Just right! not over the top. Awesome! Robin
  22. Robin Lous
    Thanks Nils...and the likes. It's a "quick release system" to make it possible to lower and raise the mast easily. Mast was lowered for battle...or even left ashore to reduce weight. More soon, Robin
  23. Robin Lous
    My first small steps in the world of ship model rigging Made the blocks to fix the stays and attached them to the sides, bow and stern. I used the eyes of bronze coloured fishing hooks. I must now attach the same blocks to the stays themselves. I copy the rigging from the Greek olkas merchant ship reconstruction. Mentioned before. Note the 600 BC copper paperclips! More soon. Robin
  24. Robin Lous
    Congrats! Nice and stylish. I don't think adding weight to the rear is the solution. The bigger prop wil probably do the trick already. Robin
  25. Robin Lous
    Since I've been away for a bit I missed a lot of great stuff it seems. Sublime build Don! Robin

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