aliluke
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Everything posted by aliluke
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Ollie Looking good in all respects. My only recommendation about scuppers is to not try to drill them all the way through the hull. Drill the outer location to suit and the inner to attempted alignment. You can then falsify the penetration going through. It is very difficult to get the alignment right by drilling all the way and you'll likely get misalignment internally or externally neither of which looks good. Flyer's Pegasus log has a cool little piece for lining scuppers but I have yet to find such a thing here. Cheers Alistair -
Have a good one Larry - Christmas and 2014. I look forward to your updates and you getting that pesky planking all shipshape and done. Cheers Alistair
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Good stuff Ron - the deck and hatches look fantastic. Have a great Christmas. We'll be on the mainland for our summer holiday - always love it there! Cheers Alistair
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Hi Glenn Very nice work and the closed port decision is a good one in my opinion. Len has done the same and as much as saving more grief than 84 x cannon rigs or whatever the depiction is correct for a ship at sea and unengaged for battle. There is a lot we can learn from your meticulous work and I look forward to your updates. As I said in an earlier post, I'm downsizing and up scaling for my next model after Fly - smaller ship at larger scale. That said, Vanguard will be a mighty achievement when you finish and it's lines look damn fine on your rendition of it. Have a great Christmas! And all the best for the new year. Cheers Alistair
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Absolutely superb work on the cannons Robert, carriages and barrels. With B.E's guide you can't go wrong and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result. Cheers Alistair
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I just noticed it is brass! I thought it was wood. In that case I reckon epoxy glue is your answer. If the rail is under that much stress I think the CA will give up every time. When I have to, I use Epiglass Epiglue which must be about one of the strongest glues out there. I think it would work for a brass to wood joint but you should leave it clamped for at least 24 hours if not 48 hours. It is awful stuff fumes wise and I hate getting it on my fingers which is unavoidable. It is also quite difficult to clean off any excess after it dries. May be have another go with CA first... Cheers Alistair
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Hi Julian I can't think of anything you can do about that popping rail except as you suggest - retry. I wonder if the upward sweep of the planking at the stern is too extreme (but I don't know the kit or the instructions and I wouldn't attempt to change it in any case)? I guess an alternative glue such as an epoxy is an option. I hate epoxy glue but it is incredibly strong and after clamping for 12 - 24 hours while it dries there is no way that plank will pop again. However you have to get the set out right as getting if off afterwards if it is wrong would be difficult. As for the forecastle bulwark plank - I'd just paint the area red and forget about it. Everything is coming together really well on your Granado, the decks look great, and the issues you describe seem very minor to me. Cheers Alistair
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I'm currently reading Bligh by Dame Anne Salmond. It is a great read. For anyone with an interest in European exploration of the South Seas particularly the voyages of Cook and Bligh, Salmond is the go to writer. She has a very deep understanding of Polynesian culture and is a very thorough researcher with a great eye for detail. All of her books are illustrated with contemporary paintings, charts etc. She also writes very readable books which paint a comprehensive picture of sea life and particularly the intersection of, then, European culture and Polynesian culture. So if these topics interest you give her books a go. Here is the list: Two Worlds: First Meetings between Maori and European 1642-1772 (1991) Between Worlds: Early Exchanges between Maori and European 1773-1815 (1997) The Trial of the Cannibal Dog: The Voyages of Captain Cook (2003) Aphrodite's Island: The European Discovery of Tahiti (2009) Bligh: William Bligh in the South Seas (2011) Cheers Alistair
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You have a good excuse for the break! Your Blandford is looking great too. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Rob If you single plank the planks need to be thicker to get the right thickness on the upper works for the cap rails and gun ports. For this reason alone, even though I painted, I double planked. I would definitely recommend upgrading the decking - my kit supplied stuff was not good and I've seen several others regret not doing this simple upgrade. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Ron Great work. I'm guessing that the bulwarks at the bow were difficult but your result looks very crisp and clean. Look forward to more updates. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Jason You are way ahead of me in understanding rigging - these answers are more by intuition: 1. - I'd leave off all rigging and blocks directly associated with the sails if you aren't going to add them. (I may be wrong here). However I would include the various eyes that go with the sails. There are plenty of spare eyes on my AVS that are about sails. 2. - No idea 3. - I'd glue the mast in. I remember this discussion in the past and I would not like to rely on the shrouds to make things just right. Why add that complication to a complicated element. Epoxy glue the masts when every instrument you can have at hand that can satisfy you that they are plumb port starboard and to the correct rake. They will never move again at their base so get it right... Cheers Alistair
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Hi Richard You are moving along very well. One suggestion is to make the gun ports narrower than the pattern suggests. I take this from my Fly pattern where the ports are arguably too wide. That might not apply to Mercury though however it is easy to widen a narrow port and much harder to make a wide port narrower. Cheers Alistair
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Hi rob Looking good in all respects. One thing I've realised from my photos and memory is that I fitted the false poop deck (cabin deck or whatever it should be called on this type of ship) before fitting the stern extensions. That is too late in your case but no worry. I would definitely suggest you dry fit, if not permanently fit, that deck soon. I'm not saying it is a critical part of the sequence but getting that deck into sync with the stern and its lower edge is much easier, in my opinion if it is fitted earlier. I think my log shows it and all other false decks going in very early in build. For instance, I put in the main false deck before doing the bow fillers. I have found some more photos if you want and can forward them by a PM. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Bill I'd be inclined to do the opposite of your approach. I'd lower the bulkheads by deepening the slot until their top edge is flush with the centre keel. If, on their lower edge, they are still too high above the bearding line I'd add shims to those edges until they all lined up. Test the shimming and fairing with a random plank and see how it flows. I think messing with the false keel is dangerous and getting the bulkheads to settle flush with it is as much about the outer planking as it is about the deck sitting properly. I had all of these issues on my AVS and never altered anything other than the bulkheads (and I had to alter them severely - shims and fairing). That's my opinion - it is an interesting dilemma and I wonder what others think? By the way, very nice lines on this ship - looking good. Cheers Alistair P.S. I also add the keel and stem post before fixing the bulkheads in place. This allows this addition to be done on a flat surface and too be made very strong. Leave off the stern post until later. Others disagree with this, others agree with it...a coin toss and personal preference.
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I have to join the chorus of applause. Truly stunning work Ron. Incredible accuracy, a pleasure to admire. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Bill I agree with Lou in all respects. The plans are just plans. You can be very intuitive about the build around the planking. Get the planking flow right with respect to the frames you have and go for it. If the hull shape doesn't exactly match the plans; no one will know.The biggest lesson, that I still forget, is getting the relationship between the deck, wale and gun port sills right...but that is later. Good work on the keel flattening - you are underway and your woodworking skills make this one to watch. Cheers Alistair
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Looking really good Ollie - you are on to it - the flow of the planks looks just right. My preference is to fix the keel and stem well before the first planking is in place but I might be a rare voice for that opinion. Certainly I'd lay them before laying the second layer so that you have something to dress the second layer to, Leave off the stern post though until after the second layer is finished. It is very difficult to dress and sand that layer to the stern if the stern post is already in place. My opinion and many might disagree... Cheers, Alistair
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Hi Richard I look forward to this one unfolding as well. Good call on the plywood gun port pattern - mine, on the Fly, is still causing me grief well after the second planking is finished and I'll take your approach should I come across another one on a future build. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Rob The whole stern area is perhaps the most tricky part of the AVS in my experience. The windows are tiny and very fragile but you need to use them as a template for the framing pieces. One small tip - after removing them from the billet, I separately labelled them in in small containers as it quickly becomes very difficult to tell the inboard windows from the outboard ones! As all AVS builders will all so tell you, you really need to fair the frames up to the stern counter. If it not faired enough the planks will tend to snap as they bend up. I'm looking at your last photo with the filler - the frame forward of that needs to be heavily faired, much more so than you'd expect. Look forward to more - a trip down memory lane. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Dave Good miss on the break-in! Couple of thoughts for you as you continue planking: - Add balsa fillers at the bow and stern - it is not too late to do this and will really help at these stressed areas. - Your very next planks should taper upwards. Start the taper quite far back from the stem and stern. You need to get the planks rising as soon as possible especially at the bow. - Lay the garboard plank early - that will give you a real feel for the planks in between the wale and the keel. I haven't planked Granado but the above advice gave me a good go at HMS Fly and I don't think the hull shapes are too much different. I might be trying to teach you to suck eggs but I see planking here go astray for a lack of a few simple tips. Equally, I also see planking here that blows me away for its accuracy! Cheers Alistair
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Hi Bill If that false keel is still warped after it is joined you must flatten it. I had this problem and got the keel flattened by wetting it, heavily weighting it and drying it several times over. It finally flattened. DO NOT put the bulkheads onto a warped keel - it will cause you no end of problems later. I'm sure you know this. Look forward to your build and the interesting timbers you are planning to incorporate into it. I used boxwood for my hull and it is a very nice timber to work with, so much better than walnut which is, comparatively, brittle and splinters more easily. Cheers Alistair
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A stunning model Doug, so crisp and clean, worth much more than a "Like This"! Cheers Alistair
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A very fine lantern there. As a diversion I'm going to have crack at my Syren Models lantern kit this week. We'll see how I go. I'll be very happy if it ends up as good as yours. Your whole model looks fantastic and getting these little parts right makes it sparkle. Cheers Alistair
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Well Bob looks like we finished our second layer at the exactly the same time. Like you I'm glad it is behind me. You have done a great job there - nice and tight (much tighter than my efforts). One issue I have had is a slight discolouration of the boxwood where the planks butt together. I'm guessing this is because the glue (I use CA) is soaking into the end grain of the plank. It is not too bad but will not sand out. You don't appear to have this problem. Any tricks there that you could share? I think next time I will lacquer the cut ends before gluing - do you do that? Cheers Alistair
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