Keith Black

That capstan is a beautiful thing, truly a work of art.

A very Merry Christmas to you and yours, Keith. That's such great news about your daughter in law, hopefully your son is not far behind. God Bless.

I quit vacuuming the inside of my truck years ago, no carpet, just a rubber mat sill to sill. I use the leaf blower, much simpler. Nice job on the canoe, Chris. You have many leisurely days out on the water to look forward to.

Tom, you could hit it a couple of time with some #0000 steel wool, probably do more for you mentally than physically. Are you planning on painting or staining the hull? That might make a difference in how you treat the scroll work. Will the scroll work fill if you paint the hull and if you stain, will the area surrounding the scroll work take the stain the same as the rest of the hull? As far as not taking the stain the same it might make for a neat looking effect or vice versa. I've found that with stain I get one chance.

Tom, yes, you're the older brother but I'm prettier. You where born in 43? Dad must have gotten leave in 42? Mom and Dad celebrated the end of the War like crazy and I was born in 47. We're both starting to get a bit long in the tooth, once this Covid nonsense is over we'll have to plan a family reunion.

Yes they do, Eberhard. And you sir are a master of detail. Regarding actual photos, I agree. As far as my eyes, after being humped over the bench for a couple of hours I need to take a break and let my old eyes rest. But I rejoice for what vision I have for there are those who suffer far worse than I. Tom, do you have lots of money because if you do, I'm your brother Dad never told you about. In my previous post I failed to say "thank you" for all for the likes and kind words. Thank you.

I got the the sea chest that I think held the sextant and ship's telescopes made. It went under the port side stern deck ladder. Nothing fancy and not my best work but it's mostly hidden from view.

Brian, it's probably going to come down to your personal preference or coin toss. I can't see the Navy taking the extra time/money to paint the hull below the waterline red when that didn't seem to be the practice with wood hulls of that era. You're doing such a nice job on your Cairo I don't think anyone is going to challenge whatever hull color scheme you chose.

Me also, Pat. I've missed seeing your updates.

It will/would work. You'ed need registration holes in all the disk where they would align correctly when gluing them up. Keith, thank you for taking the time to think out a solution and sketch it out. Ignore something you've taken the time to do for me? Never in a million zillion years.

JW, are you using K&S Metals? Price list from K&S Metals.......https://www.ksmetals.com/price-list Sales email........sales@ksmetals.com Website.........ksmetals.com

Noooooo, you don't have to but.... Thank you answering the question, Keith. I find it hard to believe that line wasn't in ridge conduit?

JW, what size? Beautiful work.

Eberhard, thank you for the suggestion. I'll keep this in mind as I pursue a solution. I've positioned the 1.0 water cask on the deck. Seeing them in situ my disappointment has lessened, at this moment I have mixed feelings. Here are some deck photos showing the water cask.

Mark, I'm not going hit the like button but I do feel your pain. Rub some dirt on it and get back in there.

Normally I'd PM Keith and exchange ideas there but this is a build log. So, at the chance of boring some of you to tears, I'll bat this birdie back and forth here. I too often go off, make something and come back with a couple of photos of the finished piece. Due to my own self doubts and lack of modeling experience and abilities I don't feel like I have much to contribute to the forum with a "how to" when most here have much more experience and talent than I do. But this may help someone like myself so........I went off and had a conjure. A top, lid, and three bands all have to take place in two tenths of an inch vertical with a slight angle, widest point being at the bottom with a diameter of .3 inches. And the bottom, lid, and bands should stand proud of the cask body. Thinking on Keith's idea of stacking three black plastic disk alternated by two pieces of wood.......how do you keep from painting the black plastic when you paint the cask body? How do you turn and make the black plastic representing the bands stand proud of the cask body? Using a profile cutter is the only way I see to make the black plastic stand proud but how do you use a cutter when your lathe is a hand held drill? And use a cutter whose profile is just .2 inches in length. With the tools I have, I can't make this work. This would have to be turned on a lathe and that I don't have. I've thought that maybe the solution might be to just have the middle band and not the top and bottom bands. Let the card bottom and lid trick the viewers eye into seeing those as a combination of both bottom, lid, and bands. Then add the middle band and handles. I'm going to make a cask using this method and see how it looks. Keith, Eberhard, and anyone else (Pat, Gary) please join in and continue to share your thoughts and ideas, thank you.

That you, Keith! Marvelous idea, simply marvelous.

Keith, in this image, is that electrical cable with outlets attached to the mast? if not, what is it? TY in advance.

Pat, Keith, and Gary, thank you for the kind words and thanks to all for the likes. I made the water casks from the following materials... 1) Handles made from individual chain links. I tried making them from wire but the effort didn't look as good as the chain links. 2) Tops and bottoms punched from card. 3) Cask body from turned dowel. 4) Banding from masking tape. Overall dimensions....Bottom diameter, .3 inches. Lid diameter, .2 inches. Height, .2 inches And the assembled bits. Because the cask in the H and H photos differ from one another making them was a lot simpler. I am disappointed in the results. Each cask has three bands but because of the size I couldn't include the center band, there are just the top and bottom bands. I'm sure Eberhard and Keith ( and others) could work at this scale and make them look exactly like the originals but, It is what it is. I'll get these poly coated and put them on the deck ( not glued down) in their assigned places and in time see if I can come to live with them. As I look at them in situ over the next week maybe I'll come up with a way of making them differently/better. Chest are next on the menu, hopefully they pass muster.

Garbage scow comes to mind.

Interesting project, TBlack. I look forward to seeing your progress.

Eberhard, cleaver work resulting in nice attention to detail.

Why do you need a narrowing profile? I would think more the material the merrier. That narrowing to a rounded point looks sweet but is that necessary? You say, look at the extra material cost to which I say, look at the extra time and labor cost making closed molds. Let the knee be the same width at the top as they are at the bottom. More material, more strength.....me thinks? As far as the more complex shapes (seems like there were two if my ole memory serves) where there wasn't a center line from tip to tip, then I can see the benefit/necessity of a closed mold but, I would have looked long and hard at an open pour and removing the excess bronze. A little carving if you will seems like it would have taken far less time than making the molds. Making molds is the worst part of the job, I hated that part. Of course sponsors were paying the bill so it's a moot point. And I'm sure it was also a bit of "this is the way they originally did it" kind of thinking. I certainly can't fault Leo, his crew or the foundry because the knees are absolutely beautiful things. Were it I, I'd cry buckets for every one that is lost to view.

Pancho is a trip. Regarding the brass knees...........once upon a time, long ago and far away I worked in a open pour foundry. I don't understand why they chose a closed mold instead of a open pour unless it was the heat issue? All the knees turned out beautiful but I felt so sorry for the guys making up those molds.

I follow Leo and the Tally Ho rebuild religiously and now I'll follow your build, JW. What you've done so far is impressive. The Tally Ho references are a neat addition to your build log, love the Sampson Boat Company sign.