niwotwill

Afternoons work got the counter planked. Bending all the planks so they fit adjacent to each other was a challenge with many do overs. Bent too much. Not bent enough. Putting plank in bending jig for a second bend is touchy business as when you get the plank hot it also gets harder along the grain and with to much bending they split and break. A do over. It was fun watching the stern come to life tomorrow I'll plank the transom. The transom will bring it own set of challenges or as my friend Nick used say opportunities to succeed.

The usual pictures. The scorched area is where I was heating up the glue joint to remove planking. It worked well making the titebond churn sticky but the wood turned faster that I could stop the iron hence the scorch. Luckily it will be covered up and only you and me will know its there.

Again many thanks Chuck and Glenn for the nice comments along with all the likes.

Started on the next step the counter and transom planking. First is to thin the outmost stern bulwarks to 1/16". The monograph suggested to use a dremel or similar with a small abrasive. I had a small 1/2" dia sanding drum and it fit between the outmost and next bulwark with about 1/32" clearance.

Before getting into how I thinned the bulwarks I'd like to show a couple of items that I use regularly. The first is a 2' by 3' piece of carpet that I had made from scapes at a carpet shop. When working on your model the carpet surface is a very good protection for your priceless model.

Heres Cheerful sitting on the carpet

Another thing I use is a piece of 2" foam from a  craft store and cut to fit between the bulwarks. When working on an upside down model its so easy to break a bulwark so the foam makes a stable piece and keeps the model from sliding around while your working.

On the Cheerful you can see where I notched the foam for Cheerful's stern bulwarks

Here is a picture of the foam in place and Cheerful upside down

Back to thinning. I used the grinder to get down to 1/8" or so but this was very nerve wracking. So I went on to use #11 blades to pare down to 1'16" and clean out the radius at the deck. I finished up with sanding sticks and moved on the other side. For the starboard I used #11 exclusively paring down to approximately 5/64" and then finished up with sanding sticks.  Just a word this is much easier on the nerves and does a cleaner job requiring less cleanup. Another note of caution is while the monograph says it is stronger after planking and while that is true until you get down 1/8" thick and then you can feel the side starting to flex. This where the carpet really comes into it own as you can safely lay the model on it side with carpet beneath protecting the planking. Remember this is a single plank model and dents/scratches will be shown.

Finished ready for counter planking

Time for lunch and then counter planking

Yippee👏 Finally back to where the construction where the accident happened. Been a long hard road but the molding to sheer planking is completed. 

Just a couple of pictures showing the Cheerful as she is today. Looking good besides being cheerful. HA HA HA

Starboard broadside view

From the stem

Been awhile since I checked in but she's looking good. The ways look good and kind of like "Lincoln Logs" from when I was a kid.

Thanks Patrick and Jesse and the likes from others.

Yesterday I got my shipment from Syren Model with all the blocks, deadeyes and open hearts. I need to start making the open hearts as they come as a kit. In a post by Chuck he stains his blocks with Old Master Gel stain in fruitwood and taking his lead I stained the blocks and deadeyes for the mast tops.

Here is a closeup of two deadeyes on the left stained and on the right as received. I stained them last night and left to dry.

I can now finish the mast tops and move on the upper masts.

Paul 

I downloaded Fusion 360 and have not worked in 3D solids only 2D. This is going to take a learning curve even after watching the videos. Is the red color in the plastic or paint? Just casually looking at Fusion 360 last night I can see how much work these must have been. Do you do your own printing?

Krylon make a flat crystal clear spray coating that I've used with good results and is available at Lowes type stores.

Thanks Paul and Glenn for the information and like along with everyone else. It really helps keep me going.

Today was spent finishing the strakes between the wales and molding. Everything went very smoothly until getting to the aft most planks. I had forgotten how much the molding swept up and to fill the gap I had to use 7/32" material. Getting the pieces to sweep up evenly and together was very time consuming and required multiple tries. The end result is good and I'm very happy. Started the molding to sheer to continue tomorrow.

Picture of fist strake with second starting. The molding looks like the line is wrong but its an optical illusion it does have a nice flow.

Picture of the final strakes wale to molding

Again thank for the looks, likes and comments much appreciated

They look good to me.  When zoomed up I like the cannons cast like surface. 

I have a few thoughts that might improve imagery. 

1. Paint the quills a different color to highlight the part in contrast.

2. Apply dusting powder to cannons.

3. Paint the wheel tread brown.

4. Paint is a little to glossy for my taste.

I really hope this isn't to much but I really like the whole thing. I must give fusion 360 a try. I've been using TurboCad 12 on my Mac which can't output to 3d printers yet.

Thanks Glenn I keep studying the plans but maybe I should color the drop plank.

Glenn on plank bending station what is the metal piece holding the radius wood?

I use both for different purposes. #11 blades are thicker and stiffer scalpel blades are thinner so the cut has less of a bevel. #11 blades are best for paring and scalpels for cutting. And again as stated lets not for get razor saws which I use exclusively if I'm making joints. i.e. planking strakes, coamings, etc.

Taking a few weeks off helped the mental attitude and I started above the wales again. I had forgotten how tedious it was getting the planks shaped at the stem but I got them in with results I'm happy with. Getting the first 2 planks in the first strake with 1st plank in the 2nd strake was very tike consuming as I had to make three attempts to my satisfaction. 

Just a quick picture of the start. What appears to gap at the stem between the first plank and wales is actually a shadow caused by the wale being thinned to half for the final layer to fit into the rabbit.

I feels good to start again. Tomorrow I'll get the strakes between the wale and moulding piece completed and then finally on the stern.

Completed the fore mast top now waiting for deadeyes and block to dry after staining. With the rear railing I made a few modifications that added to look and defiantly the strength. As before added square holes for 1/16" sq rod to slip into and at the top of the rail made changes to the design. I used the 1/32" strip with square hole in alignment with the holes in the base for stanchions. To make blind holes in the top I used a 5/32" by 5/64" strip to sit atop the lower piece thus creating the blind holes. The wider strip adds a little interest to rail with the offset.

two square holes in base

Making square hole in 1/32" top to create the blind holes

Added the top piece creating the blind holes. All the parts dry fit to ensure fit to foremast top.

View of the top two pieces showing the trim detail

Finished ready for paint

View of bottom showing the square stanchions in the base.

Painted

This has been a fun little project that made it special to me with my little touches.

How deep into the keep are the mounting holes? Wondering if they may get loose and cause wobble.. I really like the colors and the color contrast between the red and black it looks great. Also leaving so much open makes an interesting viewing of all the interior detail.

Started lower mast tops. Everything was very straight forward as per the monograph with the exception of working with 1/32" thick basswood. Fitting the crosstrees to the masts went as described and I couldn't believe that the crosstrees sled down the mast square as planned. Amazing, I know I'm not this good. Planking went easy with no problems. The support ring was tricky getting the laser burn off without breaking but got it glued on and sanded to fit.

I made copies of the plans and used the copy as a template locating where to mark for the drill holes doing the deadeye holes around the perimeter.

I then cut the center from the supporting rim and marked the holes in the center.

Looking at the battens left me wondering how to get the pattern correct and then I thought of the templates. I taped the template in place and cut out where the first batten was to be placed. Followed around the pattern without any worry and fiddles. Set the base for the rear rail and drill all the holes.

I don't like pinning into 1/16" square basswood so I decided I drill a hole and use a square file to make a 1/16" square hole for the rail stanchions. On the base I files a small decorative feature as done in the monograph pictures.

Got two hole done when it was time to come in for the day.

planking and holes marked

Paint tomorrow

Patrick thanks for the likes and interest. I went out and cut another slice of tee ready for slicing like bread. Hope the photos help pm if you further info.

Setting the depth of cut

Set the width of the middle leg

Second cut to make the leg length

Raise blade to cut off piece

Cut piece

Finished piece to required size

Sanding inner angle

Secured in vise. Take a triangle file and score a line for the half round file to follow.

Radiused top

Razor saw and mitre set to the width you want

Finished piece ready for sanding cleanup to what ever level you'd like

It only took me several hours to make 70 cleats that are ready to finish sanding.

Hope this isn't too much information

Lower masts completed today. Took the time to make 5mm cleats out of pear wood I had laying around. The process was to be a mass production method so I drilled blind holes at .05 centers for copper support wire. 

and then used the table saw to cut the piece to width along with controlled depth slices making the ears. Using a razor saw and mitre sliced off .05 tee shaped cleats. Some hand sanding was done prior to slicing. With each cleat I sanded the corners and edges with a radius along with a slight sanded radius on the top of the cleat. On the masts holes were drilled for the copper wire supporting the cleats. Then it was a matter of putting the cut wire in the blind holes on the bottom of the cleats and glueing the cleat to the mast. The boom rest was also pear wood and straight forward.

I had been procrastinating about the foot ropes so after promising myself that I'd do them today I did. It was more work than I had expected with the lines seized to the tips of the spars amongst the rigging. Deciding to tie the foot knots prior to hanging the foot ropes was the correct decision. Tied half hitches at 3/8" intervals seemed to be correct as this would be 24" at full scale. I had previously made a mixture of 50/50 white glue and water to soak the line and then hung it up with an alligator clip to weigh it down hanging straight.

A piece of masking tape was marked at 3/8" intervals and the knots tied.

rigged the after lines first and weighted the with alligator clips. Just like hang up the laundry.

Completed foot ropes

Tomorrow I set the droop getting rid to the kinks. So that complete chapter 16 and now on the chapter 17 in earnest.

Glad its holding.  I've been using a piece of 3" thick foam rubber cut to fit inside the bulwarks to protect the stem and make a firm steady working medium. I buy the foam at a fabric store and its normal use is seat cushioning.

I straightened the foot rope line yesterday but I kept putting it off all day to make lower masts. I promised myself to do the foot ropes tomorrow. In an  earlier post I mentioned that I used heat shrink tubing for the iron bands on the bowsprit with good results. I liked the results so much that I'll do them on the masts. When cutting a 1/16" piece with parallel lines it took many trys to get 3 that were needed so I had to figure a new method. I kept trying to design a jig that would hold the tubing while keeping a set dimension to cut with a #11 blade. Had a wow moment and remembered a tool I had from years ago and dug it out of the closet. Don't remember who make it but its vacuumed formed plastic with a handle holding a razor blade for chopping.

Heres a photo

I tested the cutting and it made a perfect slice of the tubing.

The tubing has white lettering that is easily removed with paint thinner. So now all I had to do was glue a piece of wood perpendicular to the backing edge at the correct dimension.

Looking at the pictures I can see it was made/sold by Amati. I chopped up enough of the rings for both masts in 5 minutes. Must keep track of tools I have and don't use regularly.

I shaped the masts by hand using a mini plane to get the 4 sides for the square and then turned the taper in the Proxxon lathe. Next the cheeks needed to be shaped with the curved top and reliefs cut to clear the iron bands. Next was to glue the cheeks on the mast and put on the iron bands that go over the cheeks. Glued the fish to the front and it was ready for the final fittings. ONLY

I used the material from the kit and you can see the mast at the top of the picture. The wood colors were not what i had hoped for and I don't like the look. The lower mast is a new mast with material from another kit. A much nicer color and I will use wood strips from the kit also to match the mast.

Fore mast and main mast

mounted on the model

Comments appreciated

Oh! so bad. I know how it hurts and am hoping your fix will be perfect and you can proceed. Best of luck.

After waiting a few days looking at the planking above the wales I am not happy with the way it looks. I realized that I had sanded the entry into the stem rabbit as if it was a wale strake. This caused the uneven planks in the front. So I'll take it off and make another correctly. I had been concentrating of the spaces adjacent to planks and not the entry to the rabbit. Too much sanding.

Thanks for all the looks and especially the likes it really helps with all my redos.

Much better color and the size looks correct

A lot of progress since the last update. Got the bobstays finished using my little alligator clip jig to space the closed hearts. It took quite a bit of time but all went well. I just finished the martingales inner, outer, and back all that is left are the foot ropes. I'm running a little test of conditioning the foot rope lines. I thinned LePages white glue and soaked the lines before hanging them to dry with a weight. LePages glue drys translucent when thick and when thinned it become almost transparent so we'll how how the test piece looks in the morning.

Finished the first strake above the wales. The planks were made using 3/16" wide strips shaped to fit the 1/2 distance between the wales and 1/16" moulding. The aft most plank had to be made from 7/32" wide strip as the moulding sweeps up from frame 14 and beyond. Started the first plank of the 2nd strake and will finish tomorrow.

A few pictures of the planking so far.

I think I can finish the 2nd strake tomorrow. Time will tell and how much sanding, fitting, sanding, fitting it will take.