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Matt D
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Everything posted by Matt D
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That looks great, Peter. With your deck weathered to match the real thing, I had to look twice to tell which pic was the model and which was the 1:1 ship! -
I’ve made some progress on the wales and painted the gun ports on the starboard side. I used masking tape because I’ve never been sorry for doing so and can’t say the same for the converse. I used Testors acrylic Caboose Red paint and did it with a brush.
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It looks great, Bob. I really like how your caulk lines came out.
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Thank you for the extra details, Rusty.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Is that a Saturn V rocket in the corner of your first photo? I built the 1:100 Estes kit last summer.
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Rusty, thank you very much for showing how you fixed this. I imagine others will run into the same problem. Could you please edit your photo with a circle or arrow highlighting your fix to help the remedial students such as myself? I can see the effect of your fix, but I can’t see where you put it. Thanks. It looks great!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Neat model, Wayne. You’ve got some great pictures in your log. Nice work on both the model and the photos.
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Bollards: Chuck, thank you for including extras of the bollard blanks - I used all of them to come up with a passable pair. I wasted the first three by trying to use sandpaper over a rounded edge to carve out the larger grooves. Then I figured out that I should try to make them more squared using jeweler’s files. That worked much better. I like Rusty’s idea of not gluing them onto the model until I have to. I’d hate to break them after all the work it took to make them. edit: I noticed after posting my pictures that the bollards were sitting high compared to Chuck’s. So I took some measurements and lowered them to the right location.
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I wonder where I can find some sneezewood for my next project!
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Thank you, Chuck and Mike. That helps a lot.
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I’ve made some progress on the stern. I’m not quite sure how to use the other two stern filler pieces. It looks like they should go on the bottom of the stern frames horizontally. But I haven’t quite figured out how they fit. Do they need to be sanded a lot? I was thinking about using the stern planks to guide me a bit. In case you noticed, I changed the white balance on my camera from “auto” to “incandescent”. My shop lighting is mostly soft white LED fixtures. This still isn’t quite right, so I’m going to try using the custom white balance setting. But I need to read up on it a bit first.
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It was a beautiful day here in southeast Michigan today: 50 degrees and sunny with just a little more breeze than I would have liked. So I pulled my table saw out of the garage and milled my chapter 2 lumber. My saw is a Jet 10” contractor grade saw with a pretty good blade, but a crappy fence. So I used a piece of 3/4” birch plywood to make a false deck that I clamped on top of it and screwed a 1/4” thick piece of basswood onto that to use as a fence. That gave me good results. Unfortunately, my blade kerf is thicker than a band saw blade. Thirteen 1/4” billets yielded about 150 planks. So I’m sure I’ll be short. I’ll wait to order more until I get an idea of how short I’ll be. I’m very happy with my results. I made a ton of pieces today and kept all of my blood inside me. Table saws are very unforgiving, so I took my time and did it very carefully.
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Honestly, Derek, there have been many times I wished I had just bought the laser cut bulkhead set. Especially while I was cutting it out for the second time!
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It looks like you're off to a great start! That Santa is a great guy, bringing you an airbrush! I'm sure you can find good help on using it in this site. You'll probably get some good replies, but you might dig up more with the search tool.
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Chuck, thank you for putting in the effort to show this several ways. My favorite is the natural wood shingles withe the top painted to match the frieze.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Tonight’s work was to set the stern frames, glue the tick strips, and fit the window guides into place. Next time I get to the shipyard, I’ll work on the sills and lintels.
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That looks great, Doug. Does that mean the deadeyes will snap into the eyebolts?
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- marisstella
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Nicely done, Peter! You’re really making good use of 3D printing technology.
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My gun ports are all framed in and faring is pretty close to complete. I’ve taken my time and had to fix a few problems. I broke both sides of bulkheads 25 and 27 early on. That mainly happened because I messed up the installation of 25 and had it off center by about 1/16th. It did look bad until I started sanding and could really see it proud on one side and recessed on the other. I was trying to cut it free and broke one upright. It all turned to crap as I tried fixing it and ended up with a new pass through the scroll saw. As you can see, I did some reinforcing on the new ones. I also broke the starboard upright on A and fixed it with a bridge. In these pictures, the stern frames are just dry fit so I could see how they look.
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Model Shipways Fair American vs Syren US Brig
Matt D replied to WalrusGuy's topic in Wood ship model kits
Dave, babies sleep through way more than you might think. Especially if you condition them by not trying to keep the house quiet all the time. I learned this with twins who have now survived to the age of 12. The hard part is that you have to get the baby's mother out of the house! Walrusguy, interestingly enough, my first build was AL Virginia 1819 and I have Fair American sitting on the shelf in the shipyard. It was supposed to be my next build. But I've been distracted from starting it because I couldn't resist Chuck's Winchelsea group project. It will probably take me about a century to complete, so I have no idea when I'll get around to Fair American. -
Thank you, Chuck, Mark, and the likes. It felt good to make some new progress again!
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I am getting the gun port sills and lintels ready. I cut them all out using my calipers to find the lengths and then using my home made scroll saw crosscut sled. That setup lets me accurately cut both sides at the same time. First, I measured the gap at the bulkhead former. Then transfer that length to the crosscut sled stop Then cut two sills or lintels at once. I still had to sand a little to get a good fit, but I did that together as well to ensure the same length on port and starboard.
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Rusty, your gun port frames look terrific! Nice job!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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