Jump to content

Mahuna

Members
  • Posts

    1,500
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mahuna

  1. Hi Ed I've found another way to turn brass and copper into what looks like steel, and I thought it might apply to some of YA's metalwork. JAX Chemical company now sells a product named Flemish Gray-Black. I painted some onto a brass bar and it colorized it to silver-grey and looks like a piece of shiny steel. I dipped a small copper chain into the straight solution and after about 30 seconds it looked like a steel chain.
  2. Hi Ed. Your research, especially this far into your build, is really impressive. YA will definitely be museum-quality.
  3. Great work, Patrick. I really like the deck planking at this scale - amazing.
  4. I might be interested - can you give us more info on the available cutter sizes and the available shanks?
  5. Here are a few suppliers: http://www.harveytool.com http://www.miniatureendmill.com/index2.html http://www.microcutusa.com/index.php
  6. Hi Rich Just caught up with your new build - looks really good, and I like that you're doing some planning ahead. That always helps! Maybe our next meeting should be in your shop so we can all see your work up close.
  7. Great work Ken. Sculpy can be painted with acrylics. Put a light coat of gesso on first (dilute lightly with water) as a base, and you can then paint it as you would anything else. The figurehead on my Paragon was made from Sculpy and then painted with acrylics. Hope this helps.
  8. Great work, Patrick. Your ability to make such a small model so realistic continues to amaze!
  9. Here's a link to Special Shapes - aluminum tubing is available down to 1/16 OD. http://www.specialshapes.com/rdalum014.html
  10. Hi Ed: I've been doing some experimenting with rigging for a future Skipjack build, and have a few thoughts to contribute: Wire shrouds can be made from nichrome wire, which comes in very small sizes. I've made cable using 32 gauge wire, and the cable measures out at .015", which is slightly smaller than 1/2" at the 1:32 scale I'll be working at. The final cable is somewhat shiny but does give the impression of a steel cable. I was able to tone down the shine by using some ebony Rub'n'Buff. As for thimbles that won't be blackened, I was able to find some very small tubing made from aluminum - this may work for you. I've read (in Ken Foran's book on Model Building with Brass) that copper can be electroplated to a nickel finish - this may work for hooks, etc that should not be blackened.
  11. Hi Allan I'd also like a copy. Thanks
  12. Great work, Ken. If I saw the photos in a magazine I would take it for the actual boat. You're setting a high bar for the rest of us!
  13. That unit on Amazon is a really good price for that kind of tool. The foot control is especially useful.
  14. Hi Ken I know I'm coming in at the end game, but having reviewed the entire log I wanted to say your work is really great, and I appreciate the detailed explanations. Thanks for sharing!
  15. Hi Patrick, and Happy New Year! Now that the holidays are behind us we'll all hopefully get back on our projects. I really like the way Shadow looks already, and I'm looking forward to seeing her develop.
  16. The Model Shipways instruction booklet for the skipjack Willie Bennett shows all of the rigging details, and can be downloaded free at the following link: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2032
  17. Wonderful work, Ed. Thanks for the explanations. Your drawings are extremely detailed - your draftsmanship is on par with your modeling. You've set a very high bar for the rest of us to try to reach in the New Year. Best wishes to all for a healthy, happy, and safe New Year.
  18. Thanks Ed. The next model will include lots of things I haven't tackled before, so I'm trying to get some of those nailed down before I actually start the build. Your YA book will be a great help, even though the Skipjack is a lot more basic than your clipper.
  19. Rub'n'Buff ivory black, applied over a flat black, will look like cast iron. I used it on the cast iron capstan of my Dunbrody, and was happy with the results. It's thick and waxy out of the tube, and should be thinned using mineral spirits before applying. While it's still wet I rub it with a clean soft cloth until I get the finish I want.
  20. Hi Ed: I've tried CA and diluted PVA, but my favorite is Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium. It holds well, dries invisibly, and does not cause the rigging to get brittle.
×
×
  • Create New...