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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. The $6 man? Nice yards BTW.. I wonder how many it will take to drive you-know-who wacky? He's got alot to make... and a lot of ratlines before that... hmm... Someone over there better offer Anja safe haven in case things get... weird... Andy
  2. You can just keep your nearly disembodied digits to yourself, I'll keep my spider fingers safe with me thank you I would suggest maybe getting your "assistant" to duct-tape any tool you're having trouble with, to your hand. (I'm thinking the handle of your exacto knife in particular) And speaking of next builds.. have you narrowed down your choices? Or are we all making things harder? Andy
  3. So, this is now, what, the meeting of not so anonymous attempted amputees? I'll be sure to read this log after I've had my lunch.... my fingers hurt just looking.... ow... Nice work on the ports Robbyn, and congrats on nearly reaching the end of hull construction! Andy
  4. Maybe try making one with the slats transverse and the other longitudinal... just in case, you sometimes it helps to really see the merits of each on the model.. besides, you can always re-use the one not chosen on another build.. Andy
  5. It's not hard, just critical that you get the gunports lined up right. You can't rush that step. Keep in mind too, that these types of kits assume you have some knowledge of model ship buildings. If you want the clearest step by step instructions, then have a look at Model Expo's stuff,especially Chuck's Syren. Andy
  6. There ya go... join me in my frigid misery! Of course.. you get an excuse to stay indoors and work on your ship... hrmm... maybe I should rethink this.... Andy
  7. I liked the curved ones myself. Nice flowing slats. Obviously your stern is quite square.. maybe just round the corners. Andy
  8. Looking at the prototype photos... aside form that fancy one for the I/O drive, doesn't look like any of them had hinges. The more thought I give it, the more I think it would be better without hinges. It's such a complex piece of wood work, too much extra would take away from its intended effect. Andy
  9. Hey Popeye.. you need one of these for you Phylly C.. http://www.woodworkingforwatercraft.com/platform.html She'd look sweet Andy
  10. Yup... you gonna be busy Although... I'd watch your overhead clearances on that one if you're going ot be carrying her around too much. I'd hate to see you snap something vital. (including your sanity ). Andy
  11. Unfortunately not on me right now, the mesh is somewhere around 2mm square (roughly). You geta lot of extra stuff of course, the kit is to build a fence, but if I remember correctly, you get a piece of mesh about 20 cm by 40 cm (maybe a bit more, like I said, it's far away from me right now.. ) Andy
  12. I'm going to use the material supplied with a Walthers Chain Link fence kit: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3125 for the hammock netting on my Pegasus build. It's a soft clear plastic mesh. I've had success painting mine with a few light passes of black spray paint, it still holds its flexibility. Andy
  13. Jay, It's not just for the health... it's a lot cleaner working with a booth. The overspray is controlled, especially from things you don't want painted. It's amazing, at my club you can tell if someone has painted something outside the booth (mostly because it was too large)... there's paint "dust" everywhere... very sticky paint dust. Andy
  14. Very nice. The Peterboroughs that I've seen are usually stained a bit darker (red cedar), but you're looks great as is. I've seen a few at the Toronto Boat Show over the years... Incidentally, the difference in the spelling of "Peterborough" is actually due to the railway. When tracks first made it to town, there was not enough room on the station signboard for the full name, so it was shortened to "Peterboro" Did they give you the decal for the small bow deck? I found this online http://store.wcha.org/Peterborough-Canoe-Decal.html Andy
  15. As a rule I tend to avoid lead.. the risk is not worth it, considering, as John said, modern alternatives are much safer and better. Andy
  16. Rusty, Between you, Chris, Ben, and of course "the Boss", I've got high standards to live up to when I get going on my Confed. Amazing work all around. Andy
  17. Kevin... for some reason your numbers seem to be getting larger at an exponential rate.... you don't think you need to visit Dr. Per for shipaholic therapy do you? Andy
  18. Have you thought about a Fly or Pegasus? They pretty much meet the criteria you suggest. Similar scale, about the right size. Good detail and some room to kitbash improvements. Or there's Caldercraft to consider.. one of their sloops, Cruizer, Snake, Mars, Jalouse? I guess the Diana is just a bit too big for your space... Maybe the Grenado (you could also consider the Amati version of that one), or Badger... Euromodel is worth looking into as well... the Mordaunt should just fit into your space and scale requirements... Ask Mobbsie about the Caldercraft HMS Surprise... but don't hold your breath waiting for it to be released any time soon... Hope that helps Andy
  19. You could try making relieving cuts along the inside edge of the curve to allow the wood to bend. a little bit of filler and some good sanding should hide them well enough. What kind of wood are you using? Andy
  20. Hey Kevin..... Stop me if I'm wrong... but it looks like one of the wabbits has taken a wee nibble out of your nice copper tiling job... Hope I'm seeing things Anyway, I remember doing the deadeyes on my build, and although it wasn't hard.. it was tedious... and you've got a lot more than I had to do... "String is in the air" as they say... Andy
  21. I think I agree with Mobbise on that one.... Anyway, she looks great. Keep it up Andy
  22. Yeah.. I must agree with everyone else. She does look good... and a little prickly too... a guilded devil.... Andy
  23. Before you go.. you might want to post a guard incase you-know-who and the flying squids show up... rumour has it he`s looking for chandlery stores... Andy
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