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Mirabell61

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  1. Build log part 24 Here is a little update.... Nils dry fitting the supporting I-beams for the promenade deck in this area The 10 stachions per side are small brass tubes where the copper pins go through, the pin-heads are interlocked within the deckstripes above, and are hidden by the (to be glued on) coamings of the deck planking later on the white primered scupper / throughpass in the bulwark is for the mooring cables when the ship is at the kay. There are three of these on each ships side
  2. Hi Dan, your kind help with the 1:144 Preiser Figurines is very much appreciated. Thank you so much. I found these when I started my log (for dimension checks), unfortunatly these are all airline- ground crew- or passenger related, but it helps me to evaluate bulwark hights etc... These are the ones I am currently using in scale 1:144 : The following pics, borrowed from the web, show, from Preiser, unfortunately only available in scale 1:87 (HO scale) what I am after, if they were only in scale 1:144 ,... either painted or unpainted, to date my search was in vain though..., and Preiser has not answered my request yet Figurines in turn of the century fashions.... Would love to scatter some of this type on my decks... Nils
  3. Hi Michael, sounds like we shall be seeing quite some fine Wood- and metalwork out of your Workshop... Nils
  4. Thanks very much Greg, The model is displayed in a glass case in my work room, I`m glad you like it Nils
  5. Hi Dan, fantastic looking and built Details, you really have an eye for These Special touches. In what scale are your Preiser figurines ? For my KWdG I`m looking out for 1:144 figurines in 1900 turn of the century fashions. Preiser has beautiful Solutions though ,but they are only in scale 1:100, what a pitty Nils
  6. Hi Dan, thanks for dropping in and coming aboard the "Pamir" I`m glad glad that you enjoyed the build log, together with the "Gorck Fock II" model These were my first two tallships. I also very much enjoyed your super looking dioramas Nils
  7. Hi Micheal, Piet and Dan, many thanks for Kind comments and suggestions for the painting, that is very much appreciated. Also many thanks to all the "likes" Michael, the trimming line bits are tapered a Little bit and then jamed and squeezed into the insert tubes. After that they will be cut off at the "porthole face" and then sinked in a bit. It`s the first time I do it this way (instead of portholes with flange) because the actual ship`s portholes were flush with the hull`s skin Piet, You seem have a lot of experience with the requirements for model painting. There is probably o lot of "learn by doing" involved in your techniques, and thanks so much for sharing this Dan, thanks for your sharing your method with the "rubber cement", that technique is also and absolute worth a test Trial, will Keep in mind...., thanks for sharing Nils
  8. Hi Piet, just read your log and can feel with you how you went through ups and downs as from the fastening of the gunport doors hinges omwards. But congrats here, you are well managing a good solution every time, and the "Surabaya" is looking better with every update. The deck pic in aft direction Looks great Nils
  9. Hi Peter, thanks again for your Input here... yes you are so right...., I believe there are at least three aspects of the paint Job, one is the paint-type itself with choise of color, then the way of applying it, and just as important, the way of following tips and tricks (provided These are known) to achieve a good looking result. I have for myself not gained enough experience with the painting in order to avoid unnecessary risks with the paint Job. Nils
  10. Very nice and neat work Mike, the standing treenails remind me of the fresh harvested cornfields (Maisfelder) I saw, when walking the dog this morning Nils
  11. Hi Dimitris, Thanks for your appreciation, I noted that you had ordered portholes from RB for your AV, I used to Mount RB portholes with flanges as well before...., how is your experience with those, I remember that it was not so easy to fit the "glassings" in, in order that they stay there and do`nt fall out, resp. into the hull afterwards Nils
  12. Thank you very much Nigel, unfortunately the "silver" ca`nt be left as is....., I`m even thinking of leaving away the bonding primer spray coat, as the paint is adhesive enough without... Nils
  13. Hi Peter, nice to hear from you, your last post was quite some time back, and thanks very much for dropping in, and for your nice comment I like.... I agree with your advice relating to the paint gloss, it somehow turned out quite bright on the appr. pic. (probably due to flashlight and fresh paint) I am a little anxious to blend the color, as I probably would not be able to get / repeat the blending mixture, if I mix the color a bit lighter. The black ought to be a dull black, no gloss at all, and the red is more a silk finish, when dry. For the black overwater hull section I have now found a suitable dull black oven paint. I am pleased with the black so far. The little dummy here is the second trial, I have also added 3 dummy portholes, they turn out as I had intended, inserts flush wih the skin, and the "glassing" standing back a wee bit in the insert- tube. The inserts are from copper with galvanizesd tin surface and the ends that connect to the hull skin are tapered to the outside. For taping and painting over the riveted skin areas, I shall be following Dirk`s reccomendation, when the Tamiya masking tape arrives Nils Dummy section for trial... the black is nostalgic dull steel hull kook, the portholes (3 mm) are quite small in diameter, but doing them larger would be out of scale
  14. Hi Dirk, thank you so much for that super advise, which is very much appreciated ...."with the masked Color" once over the masked border.... , , I`ve never tried it before, but will try it now straight away I also found a nice deep black and dull oven paint at Obi-Market this morning, exactly what I was searching for NIls
  15. A wonderful built model Alex, your slide Show is a pleasure to watch... Nils
  16. little update.. - a look into the hull - a trial for painting the hull - the "riveting" of the bowpost - "glassing" the porthhole inserts (procedure) Nils here a dive deep down into the ship`s belly aft section with the two drive shafts coming to the inside this is the tape I intend to use for taping the painting borderline (not pleased with it yet), will have to improve the technique. Also the black color should be more dull, will do next trial with dull black oven-paint. The critical part is to get a good tape contact over the rivet rows, so that the paint does`nt creep under the tape. The red paint is RAL 3000, silk-surface glaze, when drying bowpost "riveting" is done around the bend Am quite pleased with the result.... here using trimming line for grass-cutter for the "glassing" of the portholes Cutting off a length ready for final trimming cut off directly at the porthole insert. "Glass" surface will be sunk in appr. 0,6 mm afterwards into the tube
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