Mirabell61

Hi Martin, the cabin bulkheads look great, a pitty they shall be not visible under the QD afterwards from outside Nils

Thank you B.E. also for your comment to the capstan bars storage..., I still remember your remark to the length (8`) of the bars some time ago which probably would have excluded vertical storage. Its not so important, just to keep in mind, perhaps someday on a picture showing something completey else, there may be in the background a rack or hooks or something alike for stowing away the bars, must have been 6-8 per capstan bars or so.. BTW, do you perhaps know for what reason a violin block was used instead of a double sheaved block, which I feel performs the same function in the rigging ? Nils

Martin, Thanks for your words ..., sorry, relating to the "more steady" term, guess I Chose the wrong word, was actualy wanting to say that the foot is taken back a bit from the accelertor pedal, the historical rigging and understanding of the function of all those ropes (especialy the running rigging) differs a bit from the steel hull tallships I did before Nils

Beautiful work Alfons, clean and accurate build, Looks great Nils

Lovely build Sjors, Nils

Thank you David and Omega, work shall go on a bit more steady from now on.. Nils

Thank you Popeye, I`ll leave the decision for stowing the capstan bars to a later Point, due to finding the best place.. Michael, the hammocks (47) are all in place now... 47 hammocks fit into the nettings I am now studying masts and bowsprit rigging to begin with an easy one, here are the foresail tack bumpkins with their blocks.... the ropes through the blocks are just to secure the dowels a bit untill they get permanently rigged Build log part 52 to follow... Nils

Bob, nice Little mock up, that gives you necessary room for Trials with the block Arrangement, thread thicknesses, etc, and for all adjustments impprovements ( if any ) before you go on to the model, a good idea Nils

lovely looking build Micheal, the degree of open planking is just right, well done Nils

Kester, yes, the painting oif the shiny surface was problematic, in the beginning, so I had to use a one component resin based primer as intermediate coat. On page 1 and 2 of the "Steamship Heinrich Kayser" build log you see also the primer (applied per Paintbrush), and that worked out well. Nils

great work Bob, the ship is gaining more and more eyecatching details... Nils

Very good looking chinese workboat Vivian, will look foreward to the rigging with using bamboo, etc... Nils

Kester, Based on a smooth wooden preplanked hull.... here is a Little hand-scetch illustration how I would do the plating, so that it has the belt Appeal. Leave a gap slightly narrower than the plates between row 1 and row 2. That willl be covered by row 3 by using / inseting spacer strips A + B in plating thickness. In this case row 3 will have a watertight flush riveted contact to both rows 1 + 2 and you would beautiful see the chime lines of the plating like on the actual ship. Note the staggering of the riveted Joints of the horizontal plates direction Nils

Those lovely curves are back on stage Nigel, I was missing your Mordaunt quite some time... Nils

Hi Kester, your scale is round about 1:96 If you do the plating in overlapped riveting way using veneer or Card or so in 0,5mm thickness for the plates (Bands) that would be actual 48 mm thick steel plates and so with too thick and out of scale, especially in the overlapping Areas. I would recommend max. 0,2 mm for the plating (actual 19,2mm). On Pamir and Gorch Fock I used 0,125 thick Aluminium adhesive foil, so inclusive the gluefilm it would be round about 0,2mm. I Know what you mean when you described the individual and actual bands from bow to Stern, and the nostalgic orientated modeler would like to resemble these just as well and good visable. what will look great if it is done also in a weathered riviting appeal way. If I were to do it again, I would do some Trials in double laying the adhesive foil and only poncing the outer plate for better enbossing means. Let us communicate for this in detail if you wish, when you are about to do the outer skin. I have figured out an authentic way for doing a realistic rivet plating on a model. I was also graduated welding Ingenieur in my active time and know that mixing riveting and welding on the outer Skin of an originally riveted hull, can be deadly, and sad to say it has been done in many cases. Example: It is always said that the Pamir capsized in the hurrican alone due to overflowing loose grain in the holds, whereby the Radio SOS calls also mentioned that the ship was broken and taking immence water. It was not communicated neighther in the possible causes for that foundering, nor at the court session Investigation afterwards that the ships hull must have torn open exactly in the area where about 30 worn thined riveted plates had been replaced by by new ones by welding before. One of the 6 Pamir survivers wittnessed and described how and under loud noise a yellowish Geyser of graindust, air and water was ejected skyhigh out of this place from the crack in the keelup hull, but nodody wanted to hear this at that time Nils

Congrats Kester, thats going to be a beautiful ship. I liked your introduction hereto, and especialy the reasons for taking on this Project. Am very glad to see a famous tallship being keellayed soon on your slipway and wish you all the best for her build, please may we all wittness her grow with many of your Pictures.... Nils

Thanks David, for your answer... Bob, thanks for your Input on the turned hooks for inside the bulwarks, I`ll leave that feature open till I can see where the rigging leaves a suitable place at the bulwark Thanks Mark, I still hope that someday I`ll find a brass or brass casting lantern housing in propper scale, it can be replaced easily Nils

beautiful work Danny, it Looks wonderful after you laid your helpful Hands on it.. Nils

Thanks David, HI have been wondering where the QD capstan bars are stowed away, so that they are at hand when required. Perhaps someone knows... ? Here a solution, Popeye would probably call it the club rack Nils rack with capstan 8 bars (not permanently fitted yet)

Thank you Micheal, the term "butchers tape" is new to me..., ist not gummed paper from a roll I`m using, It`s ordinary packing paper sheet like you would wrap a box in as a parcel. I cut 20 mm broad pieces of 105 mm length and draw lines on them with an inc pen for CD labeling before rolling the stripes over a 2mm drill and glueing down the end. Nils

Crackers, I dont want to go philosophical, but I trust I know what you mean... I have thought of this also many times and come to the conclusion that there probably is a certain range within which an individual can, or is willing (with pleasure) to perform acc. to imagination of the final result and what constantly comes to mind or is added or changed during the processing duration... This wonderful Forum is the best example of what I mean with ref to the range, and every fellow model builder with full right is proud of his /her results when he /she goes to the Limits of that set Obligation range. Considering this for a painting Artist, a musician, a sculpturer,or even a shipmoldel builder is somewhere the same attitude, depending on the set Obligation level, there I am with you. There is a Little jokie i like..., A sculpturer is asked how the hell he is possible to carve such a wonderful Lion out of a wooden tree chunk, with chissel and carving knives, and he says... "well it is not so difficult, I just knock off and cut away everything that does not look like Lion" Cheers, Nils

lovely work Ken, I like it very much... Nils

Thank you very much Popeye, Nils

thank you very much Pete and Mark, slowly the hull is moving towards completion, not s far to go any more... Nils

Build log part 51 was thinking of how to do the Stern lantern..., (not shown on the Amati plan) I like the building kit set Chuck is offering, but I rather prefer one in brass. Exploring Ebay I found a nostalgic nice litte lantern for street illumination in scale 1:87 (H0, and the description said its the brass casting Version, that was exactly what I was looking for, and it was with clear glass instead of milkglass. When I opened the parcel, Oh dear, I was Holding a plastic Version with a reinforced brass tube lamppost Questioning this with the seller I learned that only the lamppost was to be in brass. So I sprayed the lamphousing in Brass Color, made a new bracket, arranged for a candle inside, and let my opinion of the view settle a bit... this is make Viessmann lantern No. 6071, the railroad Freaks shall know.... The lamp housing with 17,5 mm hight ist just right to use for scale 1:64 the lantern Comes in black Color, top cover and glass insert can be removed. Here a new bracket is made together with a candle with dropping wax. spray coating without the glass and assembled at the stern the bracket still requires some paint touchup Nils