Jump to content

Mirabell61

Members
  • Posts

    7,334
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mirabell61

  1. Update

    deck completed, eyebolts fitted for the rigging later on, mastholes drilled, then the deck was glued into the hull

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI8430.thumb.JPG.93a63be5f56c65b0143445b661a19f96.JPG

     

    the ply raw deck is fitted with caulked stripes 0,8 x 3 mm

     

     

    DSCI8431.thumb.JPG.d637d148a470ee7d189a4211a22d35f1.JPG

    I tried to glue them on as neat as possile

     

     

    DSCI8432.thumb.JPG.89dcc063d85b2de2f9b9caac619f32fa.JPG

    the outer eyebolts are for the shrouds, the inner ones are for the foresail sheet and the bowspritsail sheets

     

     

    DSCI8436.thumb.JPG.8c63d780f2b787075998ecfc912d300b.JPG

     

    Am pleased withfitted in deck so far

     

    DSCI8437.thumb.JPG.dc8cefa7d73c0b10507f6cb4efc7ed0b.JPG

     

     

    DSCI8435.thumb.JPG.b1555290e025142913c59541b31e6fb7.JPG

    Have just received the ordered copper material for continuing with the hull sheeting

     

     

  2. Update

    transfered the card template to 0,8 mm ply, now ready for planking the deck with pine strips (leftovers from the Chebec build)

    The strips have to be caulked at the side edges with a soft HB pencil. For holding the strips to the side edges I built a simple slot holding gauge that works quite well

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI8425.thumb.JPG.f32a145b905eb5dccc2fb424a5095e1c.JPG

    for the deck base of ply I had to glue 3 parts together prior to planking with 0,8 x 3mm strips

     

    DSCI8427.thumb.JPG.276518aa66c4a418c1b455499c6a071f.JPG

     

    Slot gauge for holding the strips upright for caulking the edges

     

     

     

  3. Update

     

    cutting away the mounting aids, trimming the upper bulwarks edge line, bringing the stand pedestals to correct hight, and preparing for making the deck templates....

     

    Nils

    DSCI8407.thumb.JPG.cb466198e61bfde7731524a8c1266eb6.JPG

    more copper metal is on order. the front pedestal will be arranged a bit higher

     

    DSCI8408.thumb.JPG.4ced5edd194d45f3586ee494011c9247.JPG

    made froim brass candle holders

     

    DSCI8411.thumb.JPG.27480f3c67861e03172bcf17855a5180.JPG

    trimming the frame inside to bulwark conturs, and mounting some spacer strips where necessary to meet the planed deck curvings

     

    DSCI8413.thumb.JPG.4d4808b14a133c8deeed07661f7414c9.JPG

  4. 22 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

    I went down and watched Hal Sommer and the guys sheath Wander Bird's bottom in copper because it was something I wanted to "study up on" at the time, since it wasn't done very often back then and that was as much of an "apprenticeship" in coppering a bottom anybody was going to get. There were still a few old timers around who knew what they were doing and you could learn something if you stayed out of the way and kept your mouth shut. In those days, many of the old maritime trades were disappearing. I seem to recall that was the first time she'd been coppered. I don't recall them stripping the old copper off, but I'm not positive. That was like fifty years ago now.

    Many thanks for your input Bob,

    very interesting and realistic remarks....

     

    Nils

  5. 9 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

    The sheathing looks good, Nils.  I wouldn't have thought a work boat that far north would have gone to the expense of coppering.

     

    John

    thank you John,

    I have meantime found evidence for the expence of coppering, specially on early Pilot Schooners ( Author H. Karting, about the history of early Pilot Schooners )

     

    Nils

  6. Hi Keith,

    as I mentioned earlier this is the first time I tried to use copper sheeting. the sheet thickness 0,1 mm was ideal for poncing and flattening but unfortunetly there is no self- adhesive copper material available in that thickness. So it was a dive into cold water when applying the sheeting by means of contact glue. I`m pleased to see that it works, allthough its quite a procedure to get the sheeting done clean enough avoiding a messy look.

     

    Nils

  7. Update

     

    today I start the preparation for the copper sheeting below the waterline. I`m using 0,1 mm thick copper sheet, but have to glue these tiles to the hull by means of contact glue. (apply on both surfaces)

    I have a copper sheet sample which allows  about half the job quantity to be done. If it works out right, I`ll buy some more copper. With the contact glue there is no adjustment possible in moving the tiles any more. Thats why I brought the white tape lines as a guide to the hull.

    The sheeting strips will be cut from the ponced length of 5 to single tiles, each overlapping edges on two sides. It will be easier to apply the glue to the longer strips

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI8391.thumb.JPG.900b2c665b72ca0173128628b46fa667.JPG

    the ponced stips are flattened in order to simulate the sink in dents from the nails

     

    DSCI8390.thumb.JPG.7220e79d36b5fa109fdb35defc83975e.JPG

    two sorts for port and starboard side sheeting

     

    DSCI8393.thumb.JPG.6f3156524a15256919c61db974d14e8f.JPG

    first the hull gets a wood-surface bounding primer for better glueing contact

     

    DSCI8394.thumb.JPG.525d74b752cb995e8386c88e095d75b4.JPG

    the guide lines with masking tape. This also helps to limit the appropriate glue application to the hull

     

    DSCI8395.thumb.JPG.c51eb43f967d93a11060e27a9c9db051.JPG

     

     

    DSCI8392.thumb.JPG.1de007f1eb5872e79c7b22c956b3dc6c.JPGthis is a 350 ml

    this is a 350 ml can of contact glue for Wood / metal connection

     

  8. Update

     

    the bowpost was cladded and brought to a final thickness of 3 mm (would be in actual 157 mm).

    The wale / bumper rails have been fitted. Tricky rails at the aft rounding were made from 1/2 round brass profile

    Also the hole for the ruddershaft sleeve was drilled and the sleeve was glued in for taking up the ruddershaft later on.....

    Nils

     

    DSCI8377.thumb.JPG.940d21ae313d92894b91747d250c5042.JPG

    fitting the brass profiles was quite tricky and for wood/brass conection I used higher thixotrope super glue

     

     

    DSCI8378.thumb.JPG.1c093c5981f70eed9075bb7d3996f1ba.JPG

     

     

    DSCI8382.thumb.JPG.ed6ce81782f794937c3b13eb913c0b3e.JPG

     

    sleeve to take up the ruddershaft

     

     

    DSCI8380.thumb.JPG.de1ac7b47e16135e0b08461efcf3738d.JPG

     

    I was pleased to have drilled the  sleeve boring exactly were it should come out, close to the stern post.

    The rudder will have a 2 mm shaft in the 3mm OD tube

     

     

     

     

  9. 44 minutes ago, michael mott said:

    Jut found this Nils a great looking start, as you have probably realized these types of vessels are my favorites, I shall follow along.

     

    Michael

     

    Thank you Michael,

    I also like these old sailing vessels, the pilot schooner Elbe 5 had and still has  a traditional maritime relation to Hamburg. The Americans know her as "Wander Bird". Enjoy watching the build

     

    Nils

  10. Rob,

    thanks for looking in. Yes you`re right, except for the tremendous length difference of the original ships and the model scales 1:144 vs 1:51 now,

    the building of the schooner model is being built in the same way. You may note that here also I only put on a single layer of planking in 1,5 mm plank thickness. This causes me to be careful not to take away too much of the material thickness when sanding.

    I`m very pleased with the scraping results of the first side, only a minimum needed to be scraped off with 0,9mm thick hardened steel blades

    Nils

     

    DSCI8367.thumb.JPG.f0d3cecd0a3745cc898668052c599f4c.JPG

     

    The tools

     

    DSCI8365.thumb.JPG.6b675dfe34d5f63b4207503101f5e42a.JPG

     

    this is only by scraping, no sanding yet....

     

     

    DSCI8366.thumb.JPG.c55879988c96057cb413ff3f74afb52a.JPG

     

    the bottom planks at the keel are also sidewise covering the slots in which the pedestal spindles will go through later on

  11. Update

     

    the bulwarks and the aft rounding have been planked with pine, next will be to scrape the entire planking with a scraping blade prior to sanding it

    all over

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI8357.thumb.JPG.244699a0f26f95b7b82ff3a23eb80dcc.JPG

     

    the aft bulwark rounding is planked verticaly, the lower portion of it will be trimed flush with the below planking

     

    DSCI8361.thumb.JPG.2bf1a422e16f877c0148169f4d563ec5.JPG

     

    put 20 planks on each side. The sternpost will be adjusted and trimed

     

     

    DSCI8364.thumb.JPG.5e0c875f5bbb0b266e24556b6892da54.JPG

     

     

    DSCI8358.thumb.JPG.c02c7b332a2c3bd9d7e8ba69934a68fd.JPG

     

     

  12. Update

     

    The planking is quite time intensive due to the glue curing time, and the bending stresses, but meantime I got 11 planks to each side.

    I`m also thinking about copper sheeting the hull below the waterline. I have a sample copper sheet 0,1 mm thick, unfortunately that is not available with a gluefilm on the rear side. Will have to make some glueing trials. The poncing of the copper quality (sunk nail heads) is no problem though....

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI8353.thumb.JPG.253b3383c0d25e064c6e85a6c1ac2f7e.JPG

     

    the red-cedar planks follow the frame contours quite well

     

    DSCI8354.thumb.JPG.e8337e05b319fd3f2fc4de2cb333c6a7.JPG

     

    the planking from the deckline downwards will be scraped afterwards, prior to sanding

     

     

    DSCI8355.thumb.JPG.566d919a59d61ce512574033e2aaf5ba.JPG

     

    the aft bulwark section will be planked with vertical attached planks. Probably the bulwarks will be planked with pine, also 1,5 x 6mm, because my red-cedar planks have come to an end

     

    DSCI8356.thumb.JPG.640770b7e8b32758072f256848c2826f.JPG

     

    in opposite to a riviting immitation the ponce sheet parts will be turned around 180 degr. for faking the sunk sheeting nail haids

    here a sample for poncing with different toothwheel moduls

     

    2464da23d3eaf8d9d54e887416b605e6c079d69c-jpeg.jpg.2c29c84d69f5b1501ca348754b408785.jpg

     

    this is the actual schoner in the shipyard after being in water for quite some time. My model will not be fitted with props

     

     

×
×
  • Create New...