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Posts posted by Mirabell61
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Update
deck completed, eyebolts fitted for the rigging later on, mastholes drilled, then the deck was glued into the hull
Nils
the ply raw deck is fitted with caulked stripes 0,8 x 3 mm
I tried to glue them on as neat as possile
the outer eyebolts are for the shrouds, the inner ones are for the foresail sheet and the bowspritsail sheets
Am pleased withfitted in deck so far
Have just received the ordered copper material for continuing with the hull sheeting
- Siggi52, bruce d, GrandpaPhil and 3 others
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Very nicely modeled seascape Eberhard, its looks good...
Nils
- FriedClams, Keith Black, mbp521 and 2 others
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Update
transfered the card template to 0,8 mm ply, now ready for planking the deck with pine strips (leftovers from the Chebec build)
The strips have to be caulked at the side edges with a soft HB pencil. For holding the strips to the side edges I built a simple slot holding gauge that works quite well
Nils
for the deck base of ply I had to glue 3 parts together prior to planking with 0,8 x 3mm strips
Slot gauge for holding the strips upright for caulking the edges
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Exellent work B.E
I like the quaterdeck cutouts
Nils
- mtaylor and Blue Ensign
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Update
cutting away the mounting aids, trimming the upper bulwarks edge line, bringing the stand pedestals to correct hight, and preparing for making the deck templates....
Nils
more copper metal is on order. the front pedestal will be arranged a bit higher
made froim brass candle holders
trimming the frame inside to bulwark conturs, and mounting some spacer strips where necessary to meet the planed deck curvings
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22 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:
I went down and watched Hal Sommer and the guys sheath Wander Bird's bottom in copper because it was something I wanted to "study up on" at the time, since it wasn't done very often back then and that was as much of an "apprenticeship" in coppering a bottom anybody was going to get. There were still a few old timers around who knew what they were doing and you could learn something if you stayed out of the way and kept your mouth shut. In those days, many of the old maritime trades were disappearing. I seem to recall that was the first time she'd been coppered. I don't recall them stripping the old copper off, but I'm not positive. That was like fifty years ago now.
Many thanks for your input Bob,
very interesting and realistic remarks....
Nils
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9 hours ago, Jim Lad said:
The sheathing looks good, Nils. I wouldn't have thought a work boat that far north would have gone to the expense of coppering.
John
thank you John,
I have meantime found evidence for the expence of coppering, specially on early Pilot Schooners ( Author H. Karting, about the history of early Pilot Schooners )
Nils
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thanks for your input Eberhard,
I`m also not sure if she had a coppered bottom at time of early duty, but I like the appeal of sheeted underwater skin for the model and it corresponds with to days overhauled vessel.
Nils
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Hi Keith,
as I mentioned earlier this is the first time I tried to use copper sheeting. the sheet thickness 0,1 mm was ideal for poncing and flattening but unfortunetly there is no self- adhesive copper material available in that thickness. So it was a dive into cold water when applying the sheeting by means of contact glue. I`m pleased to see that it works, allthough its quite a procedure to get the sheeting done clean enough avoiding a messy look.
Nils
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7 minutes ago, wefalck said:
You may be right Eberhard, its the first time I`m using contact glue, so learn by doing....
Before that I was always using self adhesiv Aluminium tape
Nils
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Update
today I start the preparation for the copper sheeting below the waterline. I`m using 0,1 mm thick copper sheet, but have to glue these tiles to the hull by means of contact glue. (apply on both surfaces)
I have a copper sheet sample which allows about half the job quantity to be done. If it works out right, I`ll buy some more copper. With the contact glue there is no adjustment possible in moving the tiles any more. Thats why I brought the white tape lines as a guide to the hull.
The sheeting strips will be cut from the ponced length of 5 to single tiles, each overlapping edges on two sides. It will be easier to apply the glue to the longer strips
Nils
the ponced stips are flattened in order to simulate the sink in dents from the nails
two sorts for port and starboard side sheeting
first the hull gets a wood-surface bounding primer for better glueing contact
the guide lines with masking tape. This also helps to limit the appropriate glue application to the hull
this is a 350 ml can of contact glue for Wood / metal connection
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Update
the bowpost was cladded and brought to a final thickness of 3 mm (would be in actual 157 mm).
The wale / bumper rails have been fitted. Tricky rails at the aft rounding were made from 1/2 round brass profile
Also the hole for the ruddershaft sleeve was drilled and the sleeve was glued in for taking up the ruddershaft later on.....
Nils
fitting the brass profiles was quite tricky and for wood/brass conection I used higher thixotrope super glue
sleeve to take up the ruddershaft
I was pleased to have drilled the sleeve boring exactly were it should come out, close to the stern post.
The rudder will have a 2 mm shaft in the 3mm OD tube
- KeithAug, GrandpaPhil, bolin and 4 others
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15 minutes ago, Jim Lad said:
Just catching up, Nils. That planking looks really good!
John
Thank you John,
I`m glad that you like it..... in the moment I`m doing trials with plating tiles cut from copper sheet to simulate the sheeting, and looking for a suitable contact-glue ( for safe wood/copper) connection
Nils
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44 minutes ago, michael mott said:
Jut found this Nils a great looking start, as you have probably realized these types of vessels are my favorites, I shall follow along.
Michael
Thank you Michael,
I also like these old sailing vessels, the pilot schooner Elbe 5 had and still has a traditional maritime relation to Hamburg. The Americans know her as "Wander Bird". Enjoy watching the build
Nils
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Rob,
thanks for looking in. Yes you`re right, except for the tremendous length difference of the original ships and the model scales 1:144 vs 1:51 now,
the building of the schooner model is being built in the same way. You may note that here also I only put on a single layer of planking in 1,5 mm plank thickness. This causes me to be careful not to take away too much of the material thickness when sanding.
I`m very pleased with the scraping results of the first side, only a minimum needed to be scraped off with 0,9mm thick hardened steel blades
Nils
The tools
this is only by scraping, no sanding yet....
the bottom planks at the keel are also sidewise covering the slots in which the pedestal spindles will go through later on
- tarbrush, bolin, Blue Ensign and 2 others
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12 hours ago, KeithAug said:
Taking shape very quickly Nils and looking good.
Keith,
many thanks for looking in, am pleased you like the schooner`s progress...
Nils
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Update
the bulwarks and the aft rounding have been planked with pine, next will be to scrape the entire planking with a scraping blade prior to sanding it
all over
Nils
the aft bulwark rounding is planked verticaly, the lower portion of it will be trimed flush with the below planking
put 20 planks on each side. The sternpost will be adjusted and trimed
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beautiful build Matthias,
nice, clean and accurate work. She isggoing to be a beauty
Nils
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Update
The planking is quite time intensive due to the glue curing time, and the bending stresses, but meantime I got 11 planks to each side.
I`m also thinking about copper sheeting the hull below the waterline. I have a sample copper sheet 0,1 mm thick, unfortunately that is not available with a gluefilm on the rear side. Will have to make some glueing trials. The poncing of the copper quality (sunk nail heads) is no problem though....
Nils
the red-cedar planks follow the frame contours quite well
the planking from the deckline downwards will be scraped afterwards, prior to sanding
the aft bulwark section will be planked with vertical attached planks. Probably the bulwarks will be planked with pine, also 1,5 x 6mm, because my red-cedar planks have come to an end
in opposite to a riviting immitation the ponce sheet parts will be turned around 180 degr. for faking the sunk sheeting nail haids
here a sample for poncing with different toothwheel moduls
this is the actual schoner in the shipyard after being in water for quite some time. My model will not be fitted with props
- KeithAug, GrandpaPhil, bruce d and 5 others
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Great job Ras,
a real workboat with much lovely detailwork
Nils
Elbe 5 1883 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - pilot schooner as she appeared c. 1890
in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Posted
Thank you very much John, I`m pleased that you like the progress
Nils