Gave up and tossed the kit in the trash. 

Might try another some day.

I love your neat work area!

Keep it and enjoy it. You are not likely to get a reasonable offer for a plastic model however well done. Not to mention, shipping would be very expensive.

Ron Gove

Leesburg, VA

12 hours ago, mtaylor said:

They don't that I can find.

 

If you us Chrome, you'll get a pop-up window that asks if you want the page translated.

 

For IE and Firefox, copy the URL and then open Google.   Right hand side of the Google welcome screen, there's a 9 squares forming a box. 

Click on it and pick traslate.   Paste the URL into the left translate window and it will translate the page. 

 

thanks again. Just pulled out the laptop/Firefox and have a nice translated version of the site. i am traveling in a smallish trailer so tend to use the IPad.  Seems there a times when lappy is better.

And thanks for the advice all.

I have looked for a translate button on safari on my iPad and don’t see it. I’ll have to look harder or open the laptop.😁 where I have firefox

Does Master Korabel have an English language site?

I am ready to sell every kit in my stash and get a kit from Master Korabel!

I did a bit of searching for the Mary Celestse a few years ago after I discovered that a distant cousin had owned her (after the found-empty-at-sea event). I couldn't even find a set of plans.☹️. Good luck

There is a plan in the book "Ghost Ship" by Brian Hicks, but it is too small to be of much use.

I purchased a yellow box Essex around 1968 or so.  It was to be my 3rd Model Shipways model after Young America and News Boy.  The instructions are very simple.  Essentially: "take the wood in the box and turn it into a model of the Essex."  Using the Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay book from MS and later a much more thorough instruction book from MS (forgot the author) and lots of patience and purchasing a bazillion more blocks of various sizes, I finally completed her around 2004.  I also built a few plank on frame kits during that time and had to redo work on the Essex as I gained more experience.   In the end I have an impressive model of which I am very proud.  some  pictures are here

Words can’t describe the quality of your work!

Outstanding.

I am very impressed with your methodical approach to this kit.  It is paying off as you progress.  Fine work! Looking forward to following the rest of this log.

impressive model!

Wow almost 2 months since my last post.  Been busy with other projects but I also had a VERY difficult time with the sheer rail at the bow.  The laser cut pieces were constantly breaking.  Every time i tried to work near the bow my hand would slip or I'd put too much pressure on something and snap, the rail would break along the grain.  i think every layer of grain now has been glued together. Finally got it in and inserted the bulwarks; also a difficult task getting them all aligned.  I couldn't figure out how to feather the waterway into the ceiling planks without the ceiling planks in place. So I modified the build order and laid a few ceiling planks and this provided a reference to feather the waterway. As one can see in the photo, more sanding is needed for a smooth transition. The Morgan will go on a 10 week hiatus as my wife and i are traveling up to the Canadian Maritime Provinces. Specifically, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.

this jig is quite versatile.

The bow and stern blocks are in and mostly shaped. They still need a bit more shaping, but i will wait until I confirm how the planks will lay down before I take any more wood off.

WOW

I have shaped the counter block and started the transom framing. I made a quick jig, not in picture, to hold the frame piece at the correct angle until the glue dried. I will trim the frame pieces to length when they are all in place.  I found the counter block was very difficult to get right.  There are a lot of angles and bevels.  In fact, I messed one up and had to start again. 

The side pieces are an excellent idea. i will have to add those to mine.

Ron Gove

Finished the bulkheads and, following the building instructions, attached temporary battens along the bulkheads verifying that the spacing was identical port and starboard. I did this by cutting spacers that would just fit between bulkheads at the center keel and then used them to properly space the outside.  Only tiny adjustments were necessary because I had been very careful to square up the bulkheads as I glued them in place.

Dan, your work never ceases to amaze me!

The weathering is a work of art.

Work on the Morgan has been slow. I am taking my time making sure that each bulkhead aligns to the reference marks and is square to the keel. I am letting the glue set at least overnight before moving on. I have found that shaping the bevels is so much easier with solid wood bulkheads.  Beveling plywood is a pain.