Rik Thistle

Theodosius, For those of us who haven't built model ships before it can, at times, be a bit of a steep leaning curve. But if it was easy then it wouldn't be a challenge nor would the sense of achievement on completion be as great 😉 You'll soon be approaching 'the planking stage' ...and that's another whole set of new but interesting challenges... The 1st planking layer provides a base (for the 2nd planking layer) that follows the contours of the hull determined by the bulkhead sizes and bevelling. You can get away with a lot of 'tweaking' on that 1st layer since it will eventually be covered by the 2nd layer. Some things to look out for on the 1st layer are... - as you have noted the bulkheads (by sanding) determine the path the 1st layer planks take. - some of those 1st layer planks will need bending and twisting to follow the bulkheads path . This is achieved by heating the planks so that they permanently take on the necessary shape/path. - the 1st layer planks need thinning at their bow and stern ends, Otherwise the thickness of the 1st and 2nd layer planks, when added together, is much greater than the keel thickness. Basically you want both layers of planking to blend in smoothly to the keel. - Some of the 1st layer planking will not only need bending, but also tapering at the bow and stern ends otherwise the accumulative width of the planks will add up to more than the depth of the hull at the ends. You might also find that even with maximum bending and tapering you still have visible gaps between planks - these gaps can be filled in with mini planks cut to fill in those gaps (I think they are called Stealers). - Then you glue the planks on. I'm still juggling ideas as to the best way to keep the planks in place whilst the glue dries. I believe the optimal solution is to make sure the planks are perfectly bent to their path so that they sit unaided in the correct position allowing PVA glue and 30 seconds of finger pressure to achieve a perfect fixing....I've a little ways to go on that one 😉 - Finally, the 2nd layer, which is usually quite a bit thinner than the 1st layer (so easier to twist and bend) is added and can be given a smooth sanded finish and even a coat of paint. That was just a brief planking heads-up. Feel free to post questions...there are many others on here that understand 'planking' far better than I do and will jump in. Regards, Richard

Theodosius, Sorry if I mislead you about the markings. I was sure either my VM Flirt or Fifie had some indicator lines on them. Anyway, James' build of HMS Flirt .... (which is very similar to Speedy) has good pics of the amount of sanding required and where it is mainly needed - see his post #14. Stringers - yeah, I think I broke one also but PVA'd it back together and it was fine. All the best, Richard PS: I've just had a read of the downloadable .pdf for my Flirt manual at https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-flirt-standard-edition/ ...and pg7, pic 13 says ... " A small number of parts must now be bevelled before installation. These parts have engraving lines etched on them. Bevel bulkheads 2 and 3 that you previously removed from the MDF sheet, and also the two Bow Pattern Inner parts (17) and the two Bow Pattern Outer parts (18). These can be bevelled using either sandpaper, files or a rotary tool. For the prototype, we used a Dremel set on a safe 9000 rpm" So some of the bulkhead parts do have thin engraving lines (guidelines) for bevelling on them, at least on Flirt. And I've had a quick scan of the Speedy .pdf and it doesn't mention guidlines. Flirt was a released after Speedy so perhaps the guidlines were a new addition?

As Glenn says, "thanks for sharing"...lots of useful info in your posts. Richard

Theodosius Well done on a good start and good choice of kit. I think some kits do come with a hairline indication where to sand down to. And I think at least one of the Vanguard models I have does have those markings, at least where the planking approaches the bow and stern. I'm not in the shipyard at the moment so can't check. I wouldn't sand down exactly to those lines until I got to the planking stage...maybe leave 0.5+mm spare on the bulkheads so you have some meat to play with when fine tuning the contact between the planks and the bulkheads. Richard

Thanks Bob. She's my favourite so far, out of all 2 1/2 ships I've built 😉 I've a hunch if I ever get to 10x ships built she'll still be a favourite. The build was not too difficult/not too easy ...and just the right length of build time. I'd recommend her in a flash. Regards, Richard

Hi all, My posts are getting farther and farther apart probably due to 'rigging' incoming, nicer weather outside, some other odds and ends, and taking a bit of a breather. Anyway, for now a little post on my first attempt at cannon (singular 😉 ) rigging. Below, attempting to rig a 2.5mm block and add a hook. The hook wire is silver in colour and 0.35mm dia...the wire is quite flexible but just about stiff enough to form the hook. I have since taken delivery of black coloured wire, 0.3mm in dia, but it was too late for most of the first cannon's 'metalwork'. Below, a tray of parts. Some quite dodgy looking hooks that had been painted black ...yup, the paint doesn't stay on after a bit of handling. Threading up a couple of the 2.5mm blocks, with a dab of PVA glue to help keep things under control. Below, three sets of training tackle completed. I've also fitted the breech rope and threaded it through a glued metal hoop at the rear of the cannon. A finished first cannon. All four sets of ropes fitted. It kinda looks OK but it was a fair faff getting all the hooks to engage with the bulwark rings. I need to rethink the manufacturing process eg is it better to attach the bulwark rings direct to the ropes and then glue those rings into the bulwark. A close-up reveals how fuzzy the ropes actually are...from where I'm sitting they looked pretty sharp! But I've received a beeswax block which, I believe, helps keeps the fuzziness downs, so I'll use it on future ropes . I can't say I totally enjoyed fully rigging the cannon, probably because I was in uncharted waters. However I have learned a bit about the process and have to decide do I really want to fully rig the remaining 13 cannons or just fit the thick breech rope to them. Hmm... In parallel I had started doing a little work on the masts but ended up concentrating on the cannon. I've had my first Covid jag (Oxford AstraZenica one) with little side effect like most folks, although some report extreme tireness for 24 hrs. Catch you all soon...or, failing that, 13x rigged cannons later 😉 Richard

#4 I know what you mean about their website. They have some really wonderful stuff They sure do, including figures you never knew you needed to finish off a diorama.... 1/35 British Armoured Car Division Officer on Tea Break - https://www.artscale.eu/135-british-armoured-car-division-officer-on-tea-break-1 Richard

Mario, There are excellant Vanguard Zulu builds on this website, with some of those builds having many extras added by the builders. You will not be disappointed in your choice of Lady Isabella...looking forward to your 'build'. regards, Richard

Welcome Alan, Everyone here is very friendly and helpful, and even more - there are loads of Fifie and Zulu builds on here. Some of those builds are stock but there are others that have been bashed into something even more wonderful. Chris Watton's Vanguard Models is a great source of such kits and can even supply sails. There are also other very good manufacturers of similar kits, some being steam powered. Your big problem will be that you will probably spend weeks trawling this site wandering from one great build to another before you ever get round to starting a build! Best regards, Richard

Well, that was excellent...what an insight into the making of the movie. Thanks. It's a crying shame market conditions stopped them making any others in the series. Richard

#114, #115 & #116 .... I did more research on the winch/capstan.The ones shown for the Fifie were made by Elliott & Garroods Very interesting and great video also. Preston Services sell a lot of old steam powered equipment ... https://prestonservices.co.uk/item/elliott-garood-capstan-steam-engine-2-12-x-5-cylinder/ including steam powered models .... https://prestonservices.co.uk/category/miniatures-models/ ...and full sized steam ships .... https://prestonservices.co.uk/item/hms-bullfrog-steam-ship/ .... https://prestonservices.co.uk/item/steam-dinghy/ Richard

Ah, OK. Thanks.

0.229 m x 0.0305 m An extra zero...leading to a factor of x10? Richard

It so happened Jaws was on TV last night so I watched it again, keeping in mind to eye the mast shape. As others have said, it seems to be a circular cross section near the top. But closer to the the deck the mast has a 'rectangular' section but with the corners rounded off. There are many good moments in the movie but the part where Quint is sitting still whilst holding the rod watching the line in the water, and the reel suddenly gives two or three little clicks ...Quint's head stays still but his eyes slowly look down to the reel.... and you can tell he is thinking "hmm...we may have something here"....well, that's my new favourite moment.

FlyingFish, Your pics have now got me wanting to watch the movie again 😉 I've probably watched it at least half a dozen times over the years but (in my mind) it's a classic that ticked a lot of boxes ie great script based on a fairly simple but powerful story line, exciting and scary, three lead actors at the top of their game and great cinematography. Richard

VTHokiEE, She looks perfect. Your pictures are top notch and the painting, colouring and cleanliness of the build is way up there. Will she be harboured in the 'shipyard' or perhaps find calm waters in a living room? Richard

'Lothian Lass' is looking very good, with lots of very interesting and creative features. Part of my family also comes from Leith and I have many fond memories of spending time there with my grandparents. Richard

Erik, I think 'weathered sails' would look good. Most of the old Zulu pics I've seen are B&W but still give an impression of the weathering pattern eg ... https://www.chroniclelive.co.uk/lifestyle/nostalgia/gallery/old-pictures-of-north-shields-7312242 Maybe even more recent coloured pics of restored Zulus are beginning to show how sail weathering presents itself. Only thing is, if you weather the sails do you then have to weather the rest of the boat? It's something I'd love to see - a fully weathered Zulu built from a new kit. It's on my wishlist...in fact, not just weathered but well used and worn and patched up and repainted etc. I have no weathering skills but it's a skill I want to learn. Richard

Chris has advised me the Master Shipwright Flirt comes with sufficient eyebolts and blocks to do the full rigging on the cannons (Right Option). Edit: So... I guess rigging the cannons is next on the To Do list 😉 I had previously glued the cannons in place with PVA but I really need them loose to do the rope work. Fortunately they are coming free with some light persuasion. Richard

Pete, Thanks for the pics. Your cannons looks fine. I'm now building the masts and will ponder what to to with my cannons before the deck gets too busy when the masts + their rigging are fitted. Richard

The next stage is to add the internal frames They look spot-on...much better than my chunkier, straight things which were added after the flooring was done. Can I ask what thickness of wood you used that allowed the frames to closely follow the curvature of the inside of the planking? Richard

Thunder, Chris suggests two options...the simpler one on the left, or the one on the right. If the one on the Right is chosen then two eyelets each side must be used. However the cannon build instructions only show one eyelet each side which is how I have build my cannons. The diagram at post #47 shows two eyelets each side. So I would now have to add an extra eyelet for the Right option. Delf's Speedy (sister ship to Flirt) build has gone with the Right option so I will study tomorrow how he did this - I'm away from the shipyard at the moment Thanks for the heads-up on the blocks...I hadn't thought about that. Richard

Have you looked at Delf's Speedy build? Yes, Delf has done the full cannon rigging...thanks... #296 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22783-hms-speedy-by-delf-vanguard-models-scale-164-master-shipwright-edition/page/10/ I'll study that tomorrow.

Law enforcement buildings, jails, gallows, cemeteries ... in that order 😉

Finally, this is a you tube video that I think is fantastic and explains the process in a very simple way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpI7B43KA3I That really was a fantastic video. Great to watch a craftsman at work. The amount of thought and effort that goes into producing and fitting one plank is highly impressive. I liked his comment that he starts all his planking from the bottom upwards whereas shipyards working to a timescale plank from the top and bottom, both sides ie four planking teams. Thanks, Richard