BANYAN
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Some real nice work there Mark; she's looking very trim and ship-shape. With all that extra time in retirement this will be finished by the end of the year won't it? cheers Pat -
Agree, I don't use it for it intended task myself, but it did prove useful for the task above - that is all I use it for (and then had to replace their cheap plastic bolts with metal bolts and nuts The photo actually show a plank in it rather than a keel, I have found it useful for planing (as a sort of 'shooting' board/clamp) and sanding planks but that is about the sum total of its usefulness! On second thoughts/reading I think my response may be 'way off' and Francis is looking at how to 'tie' planks together? cheers Pat
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She's coming along beautifully Ilhan, not too much more to do now cheers Pat
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Hi Francis, I am not aware of any machine, but you can make up a jig if you have several planks/strakes that require exactly the same taper to be applied. Simply use a long clamp, or clamp several planks beween metal strips such that the amount to be sanded/taken off the plank is left exposed above the edges; then sand away. To determine the amount, use the spiling rules etc that can be found elsewhere on this site, mark the lines on a single plank then clamp as many planks together as is possible with the marked plank outboard and sand down to this line. If the marked line is aligned to the edge of the metal/clamp then it is much easier to simply sand down to the metal/harderwood/smaterial. It can be as elaborate as the AMATI Keel Clamp as shown here (I have no commercial connection) or simply by clamping the planks between to strips of old hacksaw blades or strips of hardwood and lining up the lines as explained above - then simply sand away I hope this is what you were asking about? cheers Pat
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Hi John, good to see you back safe n' sound and having enjoyed your break. Now back to some real fun huh cheers Pat
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I 'think' the updates/new work you decided to do really adds to the build Piet; the semi-working vanes look great! Never too much thinking, just a mater of filtereing the good ideas from the bad - in this case the filter woirked just fine cheers Pat
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Nice work on those anchors Ilhan, yet another way to make them - I'll file this idea away I'm keeping well thanks - your progress would appear to suggest all is well on your side of the globe also. cheers Pat
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Lovely clean and crisp work on the canon tackle and rigging Dan, those sort of tasks are enough to make one consider the asylum cheers Pat
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Ditto, I hope you have a great break. cheers Pat
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Thanks for looking in and your kind words Doug. That is a great connection to the replica, I hope you son was able to continue on in that trade? It's been a while since I updated the build log as I have been on an overseas jaunt and I am only just recovering I hope to be back in the model shipyard within the week (just have to finish one of the Admirals chores first ) cheers Pat
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In the esky chilling down Paul; look forward to that! cheers Pat
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Mark, that planking is very neat! With that quality of joinery she would not need any caulking of the seams; the old shipwrights (original builders) would be proud of your efforts. cheers Pat
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That lot is going gto keep you busy for a while, but at the rate of progress you are already showing it will be quicker than I can complete my build Looking very good Paul. Now, you do realise that we will expect that the boats davits/falls will work don't you?
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Ah Piet, wouldn't be a scratch build without at least one 'goof' Luckily you found it now an not later when it would have created all sorts of issues for you. Enjoying watching your p[rogress. cheers Pat
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Hi Wefalk and Jan, @Jan, yep - I was at work and could not recall enough detail to say more @Wefalk, I have attached some photos of the vessel. Not great, but I hope enough to identify it? I can provide higher resolution if needed. cheers Pat
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Great job on the rigging Greg; she is looking really good. I agree on the kit blocks; I too am using the JB blocks (bought them before Chuck's products were available) - Both are a great improvement! cheers Pat
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Hi Wefalck, I am just back from my overseas jaunt and slowly getting back into the modelling side of things That is a very nice model you have created (you know we Aussies always understate? ). The paint finish you have created over resin is very realistic and the whole diarama fits together very well. During my travels we actually visited Volandam (and very much enjoyed it) where I came across a Dutch wood vessel that I may try to model at some time. If I remember, I will try to post a pic of it; you may be able to identify the type - but it had side vanes and single mast. I am very impressed with your "smithy" Some great fittings you have turned out. I have now cleaned up my jewellers lathe; just need to find a decent motor and buy a few accessories (that book you recommended is very good!) and hopefully, with some (read a LOT!) practice, I may be able to produce some metal parts to an acceptable standard cheers Pat
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computer paint apps
BANYAN replied to pppilot's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
pppilot, From what you have said, I am assuming that the underlying drawing will be just that a scanned profile etc of the ship. The easiest way I can think of trying various paint schemes would be to trace over the diagram or at least create 'closed' sections of the releant parts of the drawing. That way you can use any software, even MS Paint, to 'fill' the sections with your various options of colours. If you make the scanned image transparent, you can send the coloured sections to the back so you can see the detail over the colour sections. Your selected paint software may even allow you to set the various RGB variables to match some of the colours you have in mind. This way you don't need fancy software. Simply scan you image (assuming a black and white drawing/plan or the loke) in as a format that allows you to set the white as a transparent colour. So long as your paint software allows you to import that file format the rest is straight forward? cheers Pat -
Hi Danny, great work on those cannon mate; they look very good. I think you are using the same technique I tries (but to a higher level of finish). I found that after determining the length I made up all the breeching ropes in a jig off the model and seized the rope to the rings. I then glued the rings into the prepared holes in the bulwark walls. I found this much easier; is that your technique also? I note you are wrapping the rope around the cascabal rather than using a cut splice; I ended up reverting to a cut splice but I am modelling the year 1768, and found some advice as to the use of the splice rather than a wrap. What are your thoughts on this please? cheers Pat
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Coming along well Banksie; the sanded filled holes look quite good. cheers Pat
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Hi Banksie, I get them from Miniature Steam here in Melbourne; they are the Aussie agents. Try John Godfrey at: http://www.miniaturesteammodels.com/webcontent1.htm cheers Pat
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Hi Anja, just back from extended holidays and didn't see you wishes before this; many thanks. Great day relaxing in Paris with a show in the evening. cheers Pat
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Hi Ilhan, I have been absent from the forum while on extended holiday, so a little belated in passing my comments. That is some very neat and great looking rigging mate. I especialy like the the modified wooden peg clamps; must make a few for myself cheers Pat
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Some good progress there Capn. The capstan in particular came up well and has given me some ideas how to scratch my next one cheers Pat
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You're making great progress Augue and Syren is looking great; just like the lovely lay of the sea she would have been. cheers Pat
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