BANYAN

There may also be some affect from transport and packaging and then the storage conditions at the customers end? Keeping the wood at a specific humidity and then sending it in ordinary packaging, sometime for weeks of transport, and possibly to a place with a much greater (significant) difference in humidity and temperature may cause it 'shock' or change? I admit that I have no idea of the dynamics of wood etc but this begs the question of whether treating it with kid gloves would be better or worse for the final product? That is, if it has constantly been stored at a particular temp/humidity and it is then sent to a place where it may not be used for some time and where it might be stored in conditions that are much different (and may vary significantly) have some effect on the wood? In my very limited knowledge I would have assumed that as long as it has been well seasoned and is now stable it should produce a good result? If I then store it in different conditions to those in which it was milled (and previously stored) would that not influence its final dimensions? As long as the quality of the wood (grain, figure etc) is good and it does not warp, twist etc I would be happy. cheers Pat

Thanks - that helps cheers Pat

Now, the outcome of that discussion is something I would like to read and see implemented cheers Pat

Coming along nicely Alan. I think that when finished a condensed version of this log would make a great article for the database? cheers Pat

A metric version of dimensions would help? cheers Pat

As long as it is a good finish - mirror perfect may be a waste as most surfaces will need final sanding by the modeller in most circumstances anyway? cheers Pat

I don't use the Hahn method - having a poll that does not include Not Applicable may skew the responses a little? cheers Pat

Varied strip lengths would be OK as long as they are long enough to do the job - I would not appreciate lengths that required me to make scarfs/joints etc where not actually needed, or I would end up with a lot of useless offcut lengths from the strip - useable lengths (sorry cannot quantify but dependent on the scale) - having a selection of lengths (user specifies) would resolve some of the scale issues and minimise the 'over ordering to meet a need' issue? cheers Pat

A great initiative mate cheers Pat

All fits very nicely so far Mark - practice makes perfect? cheers Pat

Welcome to the Endeavour build club Ollie - I am building the AL version only. Well, I used the kit for the basic hull and threw the rest out - the remainder is scratch based on Marquardt and other research. I wish I had replaced the timber for the hull also =, but it was a lesson learned In my battle station I used holly for the deck and it turned out very nice. For our club's build (HMCSS Victoria) we are using birch - I''' post a photo but it may be a bit late for you noting the speed you work at I have also bought some Vic Ash (Mountain ash is another name I think) to see how that goes in my Syren build. For the hull, I have used Kauri pine in the Victoria build and it is wonderful to work with - it is a great colour if you wish to leave the timber natural? Good luck mate; I'll follow closely. cheers Pat

Looks great Greg, that is a very nice treatment of the transom. cheers Pat

That's real nice work on your ratlines mate, especially as this is your first go! cheers Pat

Thanks for the regular updates Alan, an interesting project to watch. I am even contemplating updating my desk with a lift - great adjustment during the rigging phase especially. That is if my son doesn't come aknockin' cheers Pat

Thanks Oliver, thanks for the feedback. It is nice to look at you 3D model as it gives some interesting perspectives as to what it might have been on deck. this is sometimes more realistic in a 3D drawing rather than a model as it is more "subsmersive" and makes you much the same scale. cheers Pat

She's lookin' great Ron, nice work. I'll have to drag up the duds as I think you'll catch me before I know it cheers Pat

Hi Ollie, great to hear you are enjoying the journey. Apart from you learning, logs such as yours are interesting to follow, not simply for the build what others can learn along the way also. Your log has helped me in the case of the ratlines (thanks John) as that was a tid-bit I wasn't aware of. keep pluggin' on mate, the build is looking great! cheers Pat

hi - a name would be nice I am modelling Endeavour so I find you project fascinating. You have done a great job with her so far, especially with some of the textures and finishes. Looks great! One point you may wish to research a little more is the colour of her bottom. From the research I have conducted, I believe she had "brown stuff" and not the white lead payed bottom - just for consideration cheers Pat

Thanks Moo, a good article. cheers Pat

Lookin' good John, she will make a very pretty little craft indeed. Odd about the frames knowing your penchant for accuracy; but, as you say it can be fixed later. cheers Pat

And so the Pagoda takes shape - it is isn't it? Seriously though Mark, this is looking good so far. I must have missed a post as I thought you were reconsidering the Hahn method? cheers Pat

Nice work Piet; now while your at it and have a nice work flow going - I'll have a dozen cheers Pat

Very clean work Danny, the result is stunning and makes a difficult shaping task look easy - always the sign of a good tradesman. cheers Pat

The type and quality of the stock thread is important when it comes to making scale rope - there are some Cordenet crochet threads, that at some scales looks OK off the spool for small scale stuff, but if you are making up scale rope, there are a few considerations for you to ponder. You need to minimise stretch so a lot of users go for cotton or linen for this; if you use poly you need to stretch the rope a bit to 'set it' after it is made up to remove the elasticity otherwise it will 'change' tension on the ship with use and humidity etc. You should also try to find a thread that has little or no fuzz to it, not just off the spool but also after working it. You also need to find the right lay stock. You need LH lay to properly make up RH lay scale rope. If you cannot find the right lay, some modellers will find smaller stock thread, make up the appropriate lay and then remake that into the rope desired. You need to do a bit of experimenting to find what stock size you need to get the final dimension of the made up scale rope. Don't let this put you off as once you have found good stock thread, and experimented a little it is actually reasonably easy to make the scale rope (with an appropriate rope walk that is) I have used Gutterman, YLI and Cordenet 100% cotton for stock and each produces good end results. Personally I stay away from poly as while the resulting rope looks really good and has a nice 'feel' to it; the amount it stretches causes me some problems - but I stress that is a personal choice. If making scale rope is a little too fiddly for you at this stage of your hobby there are a couple of good after-market suppliers - you need look no further then Chuck's rope available from his Syren shop for example (no association etc....) - there are several plaudits to his rope in the various build logs. Good luck Pat

Great to see you back at it Rowan, and I trust all goes well for your wife. These types of speed bumps are inevitable with the poor quality / sparseness of the AL Instructions to the point I ignore them completely now and simply follow the Marquardt and Parkin drawings as need for my version of the ship. Good luck with the recovery process, at this stage it should create no further problems down stream once corrected. cheers Pat