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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Very nice work Greg, a lot of blocks but they are sitting quite nicely. cheers Pat
  2. The amount of 'pretty work' depended on the era/state of hostilities. In peace time, especially when showing the flag in foreign ports, a lot of pretty work was done to the ships with superstructure portholes polished, along with any other brass fittings (including fire hose nozzles and the like); even bollards and fairleads were painted white to get that 'pristine' dressed up look. That all changed during wartime where any polished surface was a source for reflections that at the right angles could attract unwanted eyes (from aircraft, submarines or other ships). All white and polished surfaces were painted over with grey and minimal (read only essential maintenance/ship's husbandry was undertaken when operational. We would even cover the porthole/window glass with a coat of black paint sometimes. If you are depicting a ship in its operational role then the minimal contrast/minimal reflective surface approach would be correct. As the Bismark was launched in 1939 and was operational almost immediately, this supports Brian's comment re painted surfaces? cheers Pat
  3. Hi Ilhan, I had wondered where you had disappeared, but it appears you were tucked away finishing this gem of a build. very nice finish, cleanly built and presented - an all round beautiful model mate. cheers Pat
  4. Dave, I think that is an issue with the AL kit as I had the same problem. I have drilled upwards also but it did not look right so I have covered the deck penetrations with a 'margin plank' and I will just glue the anchor cable in place but not have it run on deck - wrong but not much choice. cheers Pat
  5. You need to visit your optometrist again Mark - that's a pretty tight formation (of timbers) with some very disciplined sailing masters maintaining close station keeping :) cheers Pat
  6. Ditto, I have the extended bed and vertical riser and find it easy enough to use. The motor position has not been an issue at all when it comes to ergonomics etc.. cheers Pat
  7. Very nice Danny and thanks fr showing your techniques - I like the vice jig in particular. cheers Pat
  8. What a milestone event Greg - thanks for reminding me it is not far off Nice work, they will look good on the model when fitted finally giving that very familiar skeletal masting look of the ol' sail ships. cheers Pat
  9. Dave, that's a good idea with the channels, much more strength but I would also be tempted to use wood pins (dowels) into the hull (2 or 3 along the channel length) to provide additional strength when gluing them in. The other mistake I made with these was to glue the outside capping strip on too early. Since then while doing the shroud rigging, one or two of my chains (soldered joints) have parted under stress and I now have to prise off these capping strips to replace the chains with their deadeyes - oh well lesson learned - leave this until you have rigged the shrouds completely cheers Pat
  10. Hi Mike, A couple of thoughts to keep in mind and depending on your budget. I have found using Daylight (55000K) light the best to work with. These are readily available in fluorescent tubes as well as gloves; just make sure you buy a standard size light to accept the tubes. If you are REALLY serious about the light, you can get a 'medical' quality lamp that will produce a light that ensures no colour change to what you are working on if you wish to seriously match paint etc. cheers Pat
  11. Ulises, if you approach the task with the same aplomb you have with the deck planking I am sure it will look great. cheers Pat
  12. Thanks BE for you comments, and to all for looking in. A bit of experience with the jig has allowed me to achieve a tighter weave and using a less 'fluffy' thread has also helped with the final presentation. Some credit also to Cristikc whom sent me some photos of his work on his Endeavour (very nice build) and his rigging efforts and some ideas posted by other members (using plastic versions of this) inspired this. I hope the evolution of this jig continues; I look forward to seeing some of the output by Gregor and see if there are further enhancements to make the task easier. cheers Pat
  13. Hi Gregor, glad it was of some help to you. That is one jim-dandy of a jig you have created - it looks very efficient I am assuming it has the serving part built into it which would make it much better. cheers Pat
  14. Small but nice Coming along very nicely John but I note you have reverted to my rate of progress/building cheers Pat
  15. Nice work Mark, and a major (not minor) milestone now met cheers Pat
  16. Welcome ( a little belated) to the Endeavour build club Dave; you've made good progress. Another reference you may wish to pursue if you can get your hands on them are the plans (volume 2) of Ray Parkin's book also; I have found it useful for some items but there are significant differences between Marquardt and Parkin in some areas (rudder post trunk, stern windows and bumpkins as a few to highlight). I have stayed with Marquardt mostly and use photos of the replica as my fallback. Also, s Shipaholic has pointed out in some of his posts, the original plans are also very useful. cheers Pat
  17. Hi Greg, nice work on the yards mate; look great! Better hurry up though I am catching you at a snail's pace (just finishing the lower standing rigging - will post an update soon). cheers Pat
  18. Very nice work Ulises and great discussion on the various issues you have encountered and the remedies applied. Have you thought about installing any LEDs to highlight those windows? cheers Pat
  19. Extemporary work as usual Alex; a joy to see. cheers Pat
  20. Nice work Danny, looking really good (especially for a set of heads ) cheers pat
  21. Nice detail Piet, these tubes are becoming a true masterpiece in metalwork and detail. The original 'spaghetti junction perhaps? cheers Pat
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