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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    You select some very fascinating subjects to model Steven - missed the start, but it seems you have made a very good start. Any room left in the front row? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Tom, as I offered in my first post, I think it is higher than usual due to its placement so close to the hatch. Once the windlass barrel is added etc, some additional clearance may have needed to allow the hatch to be used effectively? A bit of a long draw of the 'bow string' but... cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Hi Brian; wow! looks great. If it is only the edges of the planking in the cutaway area, I say go for it. As you say, it will highlight the area and differentiate between the planking and framing (which look in natural timber). cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    The suite of sails look great; good effort on perservering with the broken yards. If you are staying with the glue on method Steven, perhaps put some clear 'contact' over the template which will stop the glue sticking to the paper? cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Initial thought is they look like the standards for a windlass? A little high though but that could be due to the close proximity of the hatch under them. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Thanks Steven - awfully big matches you have (are they the BBQ long ones?) Seriously though, you are making great progress and those sails look great. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Very nice joinery Dave; especially on those complicated joints. Are you using experience (eye balling) the cuts or using a jig? cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice work Steven. You should add a ruler to one of the shots to remind us just how small this work is. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Some really nice 'bodging' there Greg. The added detail will look great when added and certainly show off the differences. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    I'm late to the party again Greg. A very nice build of an interesting subject matter. How have you found working with resin? Appears you have had no probs at all. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Nice recovery and fix Steven, these frustrations are sometime so close to making you want to ..... cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    That looks great Dave; the subtle trennels are very effective. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Hi Rob, nice work on the detail; looks very effective. We used threads (soaked in PVA) for the scroll work; I'll be interested in seeing how you did it? cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi George, I would have to agree with your deduction/assessment that a sliding hatch better conforms with the detail shown in the Admiralty Drawing. I can understand your apprehension, but I think these sliding hatches were used extensively and were constructed in such a way they did not jamb when operated. Also, while occupying additional deck space (horizontal plane), this may have been necessary to minimise height (vertical plane). This would be particularly important for operating the capstan etc where the bars needed to clear any obstructions; the flat (sliding) cover allows crew to walk on them. Not sure what equipment was in this area based on the cropped plans you show, but may need further consideration cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    I have found that once blackened and rinsed, immediately 'polishing' the parts with a soft cloth/paper towel (to remove the powdery residue) works wonders and I then have no issues with 'scale'. This leaves that nice iron grey finish Tim refers to. I have no issues with polishing even very fine parts by simply rolling/rubbing them in the cloth/paper. Allan, I prefer a nice juicy steak - I'll leave the snails for you cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    The completed (repaired) model will look great with her new suite of sails Steven, you are managing to add some significant detail while remaining true to your very early efforts. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi Allan, just to be sure, the brass belfry (and bell) in the earlier photo are actually brass - the FW tank cock and breather pipe are painted. The following is the brass compass cover (dry fitted) on the binnacle and the EOT - this is the dulled look I was talking about. You can compare the colour against the watch bell which has been turned from brass. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Allan, not the Mr. Metal/Colour brand as of yet I think - will need to check. I have used a gold paint for the gilding on the figurehead. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Allan, the paints are both from Gunzo (Japanese): 1. The more silvery (with flake) is Mr. Metal GX201 - Metal Black 2. The canon is don with Mr. Color MC214 - Dark Iron If you intend using the former also, make sure to shake the bottle really well before decanting off a little for diluting. Both paints dry very rapidly so leaving the cap off will thicken them really quickly. The brass paint I use is also from the Mr. Color, I haven't got the code but there is only 1. I like it as it softens to a dirty brass (aged) look and can be hand painted (all Mr. Colour paint can be brushed or airbrushed, but the latter requires a little dilution with Mr. Paint thinner (get the right one for the right paint). I like to use Tamaya (spray can) undercoat. Hope this helps you? cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi Allan, my mate is the expert in these matters - I simply do the research and he draws it up in 3D (Fusion I think), then he prints it. I sometimes provide a 2D CAD drawing that he uses as his start point (extrudes them), but he still needs to 'tweak them' for the details. This barrel was in grey resin, but he can do black - I just find it easier to view detail etc in grey. All the detail was printed, I simply painted it. I used an airbrush in order to get the overall even higher quality finish - I think I used Mr. Metal 'black iron' - there are two types one has larger 'flakes' in it which I used on the freshwater tank (see attached), the other I used on this barrel. I'll try to get the right product name and number for you if you wish). The details were hand brushed, again with Mr. Metal 'brass'. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Looks good Steven, and you handed me an 'English' lesson - had no idea what gestalt view [point] was, but am now the wiser - from the internet: Gestalt theory emphasizes that the whole of anything is greater than its parts. That is, the attributes of the whole are not deducible from analysis of the parts in isolation. The word Gestalt is used in modern German to mean the way a thing has been “placed,” or “put together.” cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Look good Allan and can only concur. A mate printed my 3D barrels for HMCSS Victoria using resin also, and they look good. Here is an example of a Blomefield pattern (c1847) - you can see the embossed cipher, dispart sight (forward) and Miller tangent sight abaft the breech: The gun barrel is about 1.5" long. cheers Pat (p.s. - the compressor (rear upper carriage transom) is also 3D resin printed - the bar part of the lever handle is only a few microns thick (less than 0.2 mm))
  23. BANYAN
    Many thanks Tim, while for modern yachts/boats this may well apply. I have not yet found anything in Peake, Kipping or Fincham whom were the most prolific naval-architect qualified authors writing in the 19th century. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Tim, I was not aware of any rules of thumb so I have been educated (thanks) - do you recall where you found this? I would also be interested if the rule also included some guidance on the size of the throat/centre bit in relation to the horns'. I am building a mid-19th century ship and would be grateful on any guidance you find/mentioned here. In the meantime, if I find anything I will post here. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Ah, now she really starts to show her lines. Coming on nicely Rob. cheers Pat

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