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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. You are creating some very nice drawings/sketches ClipperFan. The high level of cooperative input will result in some very accurate renditions. cheers Pat
  2. Nice work on the planking Mark, slowly but surely will get you there. cheers Pat
  3. They look good (no excellent) Rob, I should never have doubted cheers Pat
  4. For my tuppence worth, my mantra on this subject is that "there is always more than one way to skin a cat" (sorry cats). All I aim for is that the finished item looks right, and I make use of many 'false' finishes to achieve it Each to their own, and rather than take offence I simply ignore the 'rivet counters'. cheers Pat
  5. Hi guys, thanks for the offers; much appreciated. Rob, speaking for myself, but I am sure many others, are well and truely getting tired of the continuous lockdowns - made all the worse by idiots who will not do a few simple things - only interested in their own interests. Now that our vax levels are getting better we are all hoping to be able to avoid the lockdowns. Online has been OK during the lockdown but some supplies are getting scarce - I have heard a rumour K&S have stopped making some small shapes which may explain why I can't find much. John, thanks for that; certainly a fall back option. Tony, many thanks - much appreciated. I think I can easily stretch the 5.5mm ID tube on a mandrel to make it work; but either would work as I can ream out the thicker walled one. Would greatly appreciate a short length of either. Please let me know costs and postage etc. cheers Pat
  6. A lot of excellent detail there Rob, looks very good - even close up. Are the channels dry fitted? Doing the holes for the deadeye straps/chainplates will be difficult on the model? cheers Pat
  7. That is one very fine model Greg - and you are not even finished with it yet. Your best yet I think. cheers Pat
  8. Thanks for the laughs guys; the levity is much appreciated while we are in lockdown Seriously though, back to the product: yep the spacing was out between three of the holes. Greg, I did use a a rotary table for the test piece but I made the error (about half way through) of miscalculation/set-up in only progressing 20 degrees instead of 30 degrees. Shows you really need to concentrate. I am having some difficulty finding the appropriate stock (tube) to use for the mizen mast spiderband. I need brass tube of 5.75mm ID, or something close to it with enough meat in the walls to ream it out a little. I have searched the online stores here in Australia, and some overseas with no luck. Does anyone happen to have a short length of something suitable that I could use? Edit: or point me to somewhere I can et it? cheers Pat
  9. ...and here I was thinking it was a band of spiders (mates to those guys that do rigging) cheers Pat
  10. Just for Rob (and others if interested ) I have made a start on the spider bands for the three masts. I experimented with several methods but settled on using my tried and trusted soldering a brass tube into a brass washer as the starting point. Fiinding a brass tube that is of the correct diameter is the hardest as the OD can be thinned if need be, or the hole in the washer can be reamed out a touch. Below are two shots of my progress. The one to the right (as viewing it) was my test piece where I used a mild steel washer to work out how to set-up the mill to allow me to drill the 0.8mm holes equally spaced (for the belaying pins. The specification is silent on the type or material used for the spiderbands - the belaying pins were specified to be brass. I am going to leave them brass but equally, they could have been painted white. I will part the inner part on the lathe to the same height as the test piece once I finish polishing it. Points to anyone who can spot the error in the test piece. cheers Pat
  11. Very clean and crisp work Dave. Funny how all those distractions come along oh so regularly cheers Pat
  12. I'll jump on the rollin' band wagon - centre stain for me. I think the others are too deep and hide some of the detail/overpowering. cheers Pat
  13. Wow - impressive work Brian! Some extraordinary work there, and I love the attention you are giving to the plumbing - that adds some lovely detail to the model. cheers Pat
  14. Thanks Roger, appreciate your very kind comments. I think you have convinced me that I will go with grey cotton/linen/rayon (not sure which yet) to emulate the wirerope. I think your comment re scale provided that last little 'nudge' I needed to settle on a method. cheers Pat
  15. Ah Rob, you embarrass me; I don't think my work is that great when compared to some of the 'masters on here. I am somewhat 'becalmed' at the moment due to research etc, but have a made a start on the spars and some of the fittings. I will post a couple of small updates soon. cheers Pat
  16. That's really nice work Rob. Do you know if they used a 'trick stopper' to release the anchor? cheers Pat
  17. Nice work with the 'plug', look forward to seeing all the planking in-situ Steven. What you have done looks great. Pat
  18. Grant, this an era in which a lot of things were happening. The type of fid may have been one of several designs and possibly influenced whether the tops were iron or wood. Also, by this time preventer fids were also in vogue, these were iron round rod put in about 8" or so above the fid - see attached set-up from Lees page 7. I have also attached another commonly used one in Clippers of this era from Underhill, Masting and Rigging the Clipper and ..., Plate 6. Another from the Rigsarkivet Plan C460b, and a line drawings for a patent jacking fid (cannot remember the source). The fid arrangement provided by Alan is another option for topmast fids. Sorry to confuse you further, but as you see there were a lot of options in this period. My suggestion is that if a reasonably simply rigged vessel, use a simplified fid arrangement unless you can find better or more specific info. cheers Pat
  19. Take a bow Rob, very nice work (and moving along with some speed). cheers Pat
  20. Impressive! Love the tooling. cheers Pat
  21. As John has said Tim, a clever and what could prove a very useful tool - I can certainly see the value in removing that external step of having to use the calculator. I currently generate a look-up table at the scale I am working, but 5 times out of 10 the scale is not posted where I am currently working. How do you see the input of the scale? A set of preprogramed buttons, or input via an external source? cheers Pat
  22. These were specified in the Contract for the building of HMCSS Victoria (1855) - so in use by then - Wefalck has probably nailed the possible date range. cheers Pat
  23. Hope your issues are addressed soon Michael, wait lists are a real pain (I hope not literally for you). cheers Pat
  24. You're a fast worker Rob, you will have caught me up soon and I am 5 years in Your model is looking great, very elegant and nicely finished. cheers Pat
  25. I have seen that before Eberhard, but it still amazes me to see the very effective sails you produced for your Botter. cheers Pat
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