BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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This will make into a great cross-section Doc. The keel is progressing very nicely with nice tight joints. cheers Pat -
Hi again Alan, I am also commencing this journey and have been doing a little experimentation. I purchased some plastic coated wire, which I think may be fishing trace to try; mine is clear but you can also get black coated. it did not matter for me as I intended, and did, melt the coating off. I also wish to experiment with control wire used with the tethered RC planes. I tried the former type first, as once the plastic is off the lay of the wire is more like the real thing with a 'flatter' longer lay. My initial worries are that it kinks a little too easily and if you tension it enough to remove these, there is too much strain on the fittings; but I am at scale 1:72. I found that by stretching it, it did remove many of the kinks but still not good enough that it would look right. I have not tried the control wire yet. I am also considering using a silver or grey thread made up into a loose/greater angle lay rope instead. The problem is that I am not sure it would stay together so well if laid at say 70 degrees. I will be interested in your thoughts on all this also. WRT to setting up the wires, for my build at least, the wires were not spliced but rather turned on a thimble and seized back on themselves (according to Underhill). I am assuming that yours may even be 'swaged' or ferrule crimped? Also, mine were set up with rigging screws and for the shrouds - rigmaiden lanyards ( metal tensioning device that had the same purpose like rigging screws). This will make things a little easier but finding or making (I am doing the latter) rigging screws is difficult/frustrating at 1:72 I also have to see how wire will respond in my serving machine as Underhill writes that the foremost leg of the shroud gangs, the eyes, and the tail ends of the wire ropes were parcelled (not wormed), and served. I have read somewhere, but not yet found it again, that the parceling was painted with white lead before being served, then the whole wire treated with boiled linseed oil. Not sure what the modern practices are, or whether you will need to do any serving. Hope this helps a little? cheers Pat
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Geeez, life is tough in the west, spare a thought for us 'pariahs' in Victoria still in lockdown Great idea for the bread boat though. Seriously though Dick, that hull is very well constructed, looks great! cheers Pat
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I'm still waiting for the lower tier of rowers (Ducks for cover to avoid the dynamite) That has turned into a very interesting and well executed model Steven, so I am guessing that that if you are going with the same sort of theme - your new build will have crew to carve, be quite colourful and very rarely modelled? Now what fits into that theme........ cheers Pat
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What are you on about Allan, that skylight looks really good. Are you talking about the porthole shaped skylight? The only thing I can see is that the 'glass' may need some polishing/cleaning. Excellent work on the wood finish, it will look great when sealed and polished. Nice work overall. cheers Pat
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Wishing you the best for a quick and full recovery Clipperfan. cheers Pat
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That looks stunning Steven, and I think you may be selling your building skills a little short noting the scale of this model. You have taken us on a wonderful voyage of discovery with this build, and I am looking forward to your next project - any hints? cheers Pat
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Ah, sorry Patrick I thought you were referring to the jeweler for the coating job. cheers Pat
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Nice work and research Steven. I note that in the second image above (Sermons ....) that the steering oar has another small cross piece where the swivel point would be. Have you considered and/or eliminated that? cheers Pat
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Ditto - that is some nice metal work Patrick cheers Pat
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If it helps, the Contract for HMCSS Victoria (1855)called for brass belaying pins. cheers Pat
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The Introduction and Use of Copper Sheathing - A History (PDF)
BANYAN replied to Bob Cleek's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thanks for posting this again Bob, I have also linked to it in my build log or associated posts as I think it is a great reference. Bruce, interesting to hear he is responding to contacts; how did you approach him. I tried sending an email to the university of South Australia but no response. I wish to pick his brain on whether he has much material/information on reinforcement plates (usually gunmetal) around the screw aperture in steam ships. cheers Pat -
Another stunning update; your workmanship is first class Keith and I always enjoy seeing your updates. cheers Pat
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If not a beam, what about a 'lead' block on a strop or pendant Steven? Is there anything back there to attach one to? Welcome to my world cheers Pat
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Well researched and executed; a lovely model! Nice collection of historical boats there also. cheers Pat
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Hi Steven, better minds might have more to contribute, or refute this as I am basing it on my limited understanding of 'coasting' practices of the time. As you say they usually anchored, or beached, each night. It is my understanding, but perhaps overly influenced by movies, that it was more common for them to beach whereby the bow was put up on a suitable beach. To stop the vessel broaching, and to allow them to get off the beach, the stern would be 'anchored' by dropping a 'kedge' anchor as they approached the beach. This allowed the cable to be taken to the windlass to haul the bow off the beach if required. These were not that big an anchor and, once pulled off the beach with the cable 'up-and-down' could if required even be lifted by hand. If the sea was quartering, or the sea direction might change overnight, it was sometimes good 'insurance' to drop a second anchor such that the stern was 'moored'. In these days I would have thought the cables would simply be bent to a bollard/timber and only taken to the windlass as required. If they were using them frequently, it might not have been practical to stow the cables below and may even have been coiled down on the upper deck (aft) out of the way. Then again, they probably had sufficient manpower to stow and raise these cables from below. Just pure observation based on my practical experience with smaller vessels, and not based on any evidence. of ground tackle or anchoring evolutions of the time. cheers Pat
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An unusual product indeed Rob; any particular reason you use it and not a builder 'bog' or the like? cheers Pat
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Quite the fleet now Greg; another fine model commissioned into your flotilla. cheers Pat
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Exceptionally good work - your model is looking really good Steven. Another idea to try for the centenary of the ropes is wax (preferably conservators type). Using a minimal amount well worked into the thread usually results in the rope laying in a much more natural centenary. Pull the thread through the wax two or three times, then work it in using a lint free cloth or paper so that it doesn't sit on the thread but is worked into it. Don't put too much friction on the rope when pulling it through the cloth/paper or you may burn your fingers. The downside; well I have heard of two things. First the wax sitting on the surface of the thread may collect dust over time if the model is not in a case, and second there is some talk, that over a long time, the wax might give off fumes which, rather than preserving the thread, might make the thread deteriorate faster. The more learned here may offer better advice on this (ding ding - Druxey are you out there :)) but it certainly makes the thread lay better in a centenary and cuts down a lot on any fuzz the thread may have. cheers Pat
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And so the lady (of the seas) starts to dress. Look forward to seeing the profiles emerge Rob. cheers Pat
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That is looking superb Steven. Having seen this in real life, the photos do not portray the depth or richness of the colours as they really are, despite looking great on screen. cheers Pat
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I think your client will be very happy, and impressed with your hull Allan. cheers Pat
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