BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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No problem Mike, happy to hear it was of interest. I use quite a few dental and jewellers tool at the scales I work with (1:72) as they are very well made usually and offer a lot to our hobby also I am no electrician or electronics guy, but I think there are inline thermal overload switch /fuse you can put into the main lead? This would then ensure you have no issues, especially if you are happy with what you have made. I found this which may help? protection-datasheet-2017.indd (oeelectrics.co.uk) cheers Pat- 943 replies
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Mike when I experienced this issue I also tried a self-made drill very similar in concept to what you have made (based on a Russian modeller's ideas [posted in MSW generation 1]) I also experienced the slippage on the bit, and also found I did not have the level of control I desired. Based on the advice offered by Paul Budzic (Rotary Hand Tools for Scale Modeling - YouTube), I looked around for an affordable dental handpiece (micromotor). I found a very affordable one on eBay that had all the features I needed including variable speed, high top speed, low speed with sufficient torque, a foot or front panel controller, and most importantly it was light and easy to manoeuvre/handle the hand-piece even inside the hull (1:64). The machine came with a straight and contra angle end-piece and accepts the standard 2.3xx mm shaft dental drills, burs, cut-off disc etc. These are easily purchased through eBay but for better quality a chat with your preferred Jeweller's Supplier will give you an idea of what you can get. I have a full range of micro-drill bits ranging from 0.3 through 2.0 mm (anything larger I use my Dremel with standard small drill bits), some excellent carbon-fibre cut off discs and burrs etc. Some of these can be expensive but the quality is great and last a lot longer than the cheaper versions. You may wish to take a look at such an option? cheers Pat
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Thank Keith B, and wishing you and your family a safe and happy Christmas; with hopefully a better 2021. Keith A, that is the hope. Fingers crossed these vaccines will bring a halt to this horror. cheers Pat- 993 replies
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Thoughts are with you mate; keep at it. Stay safe Pat
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Greg that channel down the middle is probably the track part of the helicopter assisted recovery system (used to pull it into the hangar. Have a great Christmas. cheers Pat
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Just my two cents (sorry pence) on those electrical 'boxes'. Keith, they look suspiciously like the bronze 'junction boxes' used in RN warships (well the Aussie variants anyway). Used as the name says as a junction box so it is possible it connected wiring running inside the mast to the external part of the wiring. A similar type of box but with larger ports/sockets in them were also used to connect upper deck portable electrical gear/equipment such as lights, pumps, grinders/descaling hand (electrical) tools. We used to call that type of socket connecter a 'donkey d***' May or not be the same sort of box? cheers Pat
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Most ships, especially warships, use a self polishing paint on the hull bottom these days. If there is algae at the waterline it is more than likely she did not move around much recently (like sitting alongside during, or waiting for refit). This type of paint goes on one colour and is 'polished' off as the years go by - when it gets to the last colour it is time to have the bottom cleaned. cheers Pat
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The trunnion caps are kept closed at all times otherwise the barrel might jump from the carriage. The whole gun (barrel and carriage) is trained using the bars to move/lever the rear of the carriage. cheers Pat
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Wishing you a safe and happy festive season Keith, I hope your family remain safe and you can catch up again soon. Following your anchor discussion with interest as a similar arrangement will have been used with Victoria's anchors, although hers were stowed outboard. cheers Pat
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Hi Ilhan, that is very nice detail. Thanks for posting the sequence of photos showing how you you are doing this. I assume you will be bending the davit arms to a curved arc extending outboard at some stage. I am following with interest as I need to do something very similar at scale 1:72 and you are showing what can be achieved. cheers Pat
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Terrific detail Alex; so nice to see you back making sawdust again. cheers Pat
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Fantastic build mate, the display case with the backdrop is just what was needed for the final 'flourish'. cheers Pat
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Nice detail Keith; Eberhard has said it all. Your upper deck is certainly coming to life. cheers Pat
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Brian, as Keith says, who can challenge unless they have a 'wayback' machine. For my two cents worth though, but I have no experience with US ships at all, is that if the museum model has a red hull, then you would like to think they researched this properly? My leaning would then to be to follow the museum model (unless you are aware the model was not that well researched?) cheers Pat
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Hi guys thanks for looking in and I should have posted an update on what is happening. The lack of posts results from a few reasons, chiefly that after a 4 month hard ( I mean very very restrictive) lockdown here I had to put the model aside for a while to catch up on all the Spring/Summer chores and the 'honey please do' list At least the outcome of the lockdown has been great as we have all but eliminated any community transmission of covid for the time being. The other reasons being tied to RESEARCH (ugh, it is becoming a chore now ) I cannot progress the remaining deck furniture until I finalise the Rigging and Belaying Plans. I am about 25% into that. In the meantime the lower masts have been made and I will soon post an update on the 'tops' which are also of a very 'different design to those commonly seen, even in this era. Unfortunately analysis of the available imagery when compared with the Rigging Warrant results in a rigging and belaying plan that does not align with those offered by contemporary and other authors such as Kipping, Fincham, Underhill, Crothers, McKay etc. As such I am having to follow each line individually in a 'virtual' configuration to determine the likely rigging arrangement and belaying points such that they do not interfere with each other and conform with the imagery. One example being that unlike the options proffered by the authors, the topmast backstays were configured the opposite of the usual rigging practices in that the forward backstay was set-up as a breast (permanent not temporary) and the after set-up as a standing backstay (preventer) to a rigging screw in the channels. Anyway more on all of this as I get to grips with the rigging in the new year. Hopefully the new year will bring a return of the 'mojo' I need to complete this. cheers, and again, thanks for your interest Chuck and Keith. Pat- 993 replies
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Daniel, I don't comment in your log much anymore as I have run out of superlatives for your stunning workmanship and model. Seeing these regular updates is very inspirational and shows the level of quality and detail that can be achieved in a model. Have a safe festive break. Pat
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Sorry to hear of your tribulations Remco; especially in these times. Best of luck in finding new employment soon and that we see you back at the building table. cheers Pat
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Imagina, you are quite correct (from an RAN perspective anyway) - Not only to keep the fuel loading down, but also you would be surprised how heavy that paint is. The RAN collected the paint taken off one ship while in refit and the collective weight was considerable. The particular photo Greg showed may be the result of a couple of things. Firstly, the poor paint adhesion definitely shows poor surface preparation by the crew when 'pretty coats' were being applied (probably after a long deployment and to look good coming into harbour/home port). The other may be the result of a long refit (docking period) where the hull (paint) has yet to be addressed. In a long refit, the ship can be decommissioned, or 'handed over' out of navy control to the the dockyard. The dockyard will not waste time in keeping the paintwork looking pretty especially if it is contracted to provide the ship back in a fully restored condition, and this may be one of the last things done (rather than ruining good paintwork with welding, scrapes etc incurred during the refit). cheers Pat
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Keith, could the 'nuts' (with internal bars) also have been to allow easy removal/placement of the rails for maintenance/access to some of the mast/deck fittings? Very effective way of making those rails, another gem I will tuck away . This will be another 'gem' of a model. BTW, if you ever find a way to reduce that list created by your 'Admiral' let me know - I have to work on reducing mine also cheers Pat
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That is some nice etching Eberhard, how did you achieve the nice rounded rivet heads (or is that just 'photographic' perspective/contrast at work). They certainly made up nicely soldered together and look very effective in-situ. cheers Pat
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Love the history, and your 'anecdote' of the WW2 construction comparisons You will have perhaps the best made model keel to show for your efforts Love the wood BTW. cheers Pat
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Again for RN ships, but I am sure there will be an equivalent for the USN guns, the breeching rope sizes were tabulated and published. The following is from 'The Sea Gunner's Vade Mecum_Robert Simmons (1812)" cheers Pat
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Always the way Keith, when Murphy is on leave, Sod's law takes over I think you may be reasonably safe having thought it through; even if not, with your skills you always find a way to 'fix' it. cheers Pat
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That sea is developing very nicely Dan. cheers Pat
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