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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. The horseshoe shackles are commonly referred to as 'bow' shackles and the straight or standard ones as 'D' shackles - each had a purpose. Bow shackles are often mistakenly referred to as anchor shackles (they look a little the same but a bow shackle has a more defined/larger arc or round than an anchor shackle with the latter usually a lot bigger as well. The curve or clearance of a bow shackle allows it to bear a load from more directions than the smaller curve in the straight sided 'D' shackle - so the bow can take significantly more side loads which is better for cargo handling etc. So a bow shackle is used where some amount of articulation may be needed. If only a straight (in-line) load/pull is required (as with much rigging) the standard or 'D' shackle is normally used. The smaller arc can take higher loads. The opening, with a bolt or clevis pin, is usually moused if a threaded bolt is used. I hope that helps clarify a little? cheers Pat
  2. Very nice woodwork Woodeater, those spars are very well executed. cheers Pat
  3. Another question for you more enlightened folks please. I am about to add the 'charlie noble' which is located between the fore hatch and foremast. It has a tall riser/funnel for use in harbour. I have not seen a photo with it fitted at sea, but one lithograph hints at a shorter one when at sea and an engraving a tall one again at sea - perhaps telescopic or a two part funnel? My main question though is how the funnel would have penetrated the deck. The stove is on the platform deck below, and even if the joint was below the upper deck, it would have required some form of waterproofed seal/gland at the upper deck. Not sure if you want the cook going up on deck to place the funnel in the correct position to draw air and clear smoke in the right direction - would that have been a function of the upper deck guys whenever they changed course? I don't see any wind vane adaptor on it to automate this. My leanings are to have a stub of the lower section from the stove penetrate the upper deck through some form of gland and then the charlie nobe (whether 2 piece or telescopic) would simply fit to this stub? I would then make that stub with a waterproofed cap that could slip on when the charlie noble was not fitted. I would greatly appreciate any feedback noting that we are talking 1855. I have found a letter from the Officer supervising the construction of the ship in London (Limehouse Docks) in which he states that the builders had chosen a galley/stove by Bedpath (The writing makes it look like Bedpath but perhaps Redpath? - There was a Redpath engineering in this era connected with improved stoves). Any info on the following most welcomed: 1. telescopic or two part? 2. type of upper deck gland/gasket or the like? 3. Bedpath/Redpath galley/stove (galley could feed 200 people and the stove was fitted with a "Grant's style condenser - This was a two part stove which could be isolated to cook from both or one part, and produce water with the other as required. cheers Pat
  4. Hello all, and many thanks for the likes and supportive comments. Carl, the levers are from brass strip (K&S) about 1.5mm wide, then hand shaped after drilling the holes at the appropriate distance apart. Eberhard, I cheated ; the Elliott pattern bitts are 3D printed then airbrushed - I added hex head bolt to the four corners as the hold downs. There should be a second set of bolts further in but I would damage the part adding those. The compressors are correct for the Brown and Harfield pattern of that time as far as we can research. They were the same as fitted to the 'Queen of the South' a contemporary mercantile vessel of 'Victoria' and commanded by Captain Norman, who was also the commissioning commanding officer for the 'Victoria'. One of the Brown and Harfield patent drawings actually shows the fit as on the 'Queen of the South'. There are two cable stoppers up forward near the hawse pipes, and these after pair, leading into the 'naval pipes' look a little different and were called 'controllers' but had the same function - control the run out speed of the cable as it approached the desired length on deck, and also to stop the cable slipping back. They took no real strain, that was done by the stoppers and the capstan. In Victoria, the cable lockers were located midships (5 tiers athwartship as far as we can tell) just forward of the stoke hole forward bulkhead so we believe they are positioned correctly. My understanding so far (as we don't have a better 'internal mechanism' drawing) is that the upper deck lever was actioned with a 'handy billy' which then acted on the horizontal lever below deck as per a standard compressor - no detail of the linkage found yet. If you have some additional info it would be greatly appreciated. cheers Pat
  5. Looking forward to seeing all that great detail come together at the business end Steven; looking good. cheers Pat
  6. Hi again folks, another small update with some additional detail to show. I have now added the capstan, Elliott bitts and cable compressor after checking to be sure there was sufficient room for the bars to be fitted and turned. The men would have had to peel off and regain a vacant bar in places though as even with the space available it was pretty tight. The cable has yet to be blackened and fitted properly. At least the contrast shows how it was put onto the capstan. These are 3D parts we had printed but I had to replace the control levers as the parts are so small they broke too easily. I have not included a ruler but for an idea the levers were only 9mm long and less than 1 mm wide. I have also dry fitted the stoke hole skylight/ventilator with the funnel fitted and hammocks in situ. I will add the chain tie-downs before gluing it into place. The other shots provide some idea of the deck layout and fittings now added. I have also had a chance to adapt one of the winches to better show the worm drive - still a good clean required as you can see all the filing dust. cheers Pat
  7. That is some very nice detail no matter what scale, but impressive at your working scale. And... you have a permanent memento of your work soaked into one of the parts - no arguing about who made the model as a simple DNA test will resolve that Surprising how much a small think like a bandaid in an awkward place can interfere. cheers Pat
  8. I think Druxey nailed the first. Asto the second, if it is the same thing you are talking about, they may simply be large scuppers similar in design to a house downpipe? cheers Pat
  9. Very nice Michael; I have a couple of chairs back here that need reupholstering I like the adapted tool; great idea as a pointed awl simply does not open the hole as such. cheers Pat
  10. Hi and welcome to the forums Spike. BE and Mark have essentially answered your question I believe, but an added bit of info is that the 'Train Tackle' could also be used to haul the gun 'out of battery' and/or from a close stowed (sea lashed) position into the loading position. Sometimes the gun may be loaded but not fired (that is it is 'in battery') and would need to be hauled back to have it unloaded. Sometimes in war/expecting action conditions guns would be loaded ready for immediate use, and the guns would need to be hauled back occasionally to check powder etc also. cheers Pat
  11. Very well described process and the results are excellent Steven; he looks just 'right' for the job. cheers Pat
  12. That is is some very nice detailing Greg; your 'bodging' efforts are showing what can be done. cheers Pat
  13. More stunning joinery; your skills are 'top notch'! cheers Pat
  14. That's a spectacular finish Patrick. Nevermind Luke and his offsiders, keep your maintenance shop locked as I may just be tempted to sneak in and blast it with my 'enlarger' gun and make off with a new toy cheers Pat
  15. Very nice joinery on those corners of the cap rail Michael, very nice complimentary choice of woods. Thanks for the learning experience on the leather folks; another tid-bit to store away. cheers Pat
  16. Looking very good Dave, some significant progress even if not readily visible. Mate one small thing to check if it can still be done is the lead of some of that running rigging coming from the bow where it passes over rather than under the other lines; this would cause a lot of 'chafe' on those lines - more likely that running end passed under the other lines/ cheers Pat
  17. Thanks Carl and Patrick, your kind thoughts are appreciated. cheers Pat
  18. Hi folks, there may be a short delay in updates and responses as a good friend, Karl H Marquardt, passed away very recently and I am preparing to farewell him. See regards Pat
  19. .... and despite what these companies say about protecting your privacy, the data they collect is indeed frightening. I wish Aust. would follow some of the new European privacy laws. I think I will replace the worm - will experiment a little today to see what I can do. All to late for thickening the main drive cog though. [edit: Eberhard, I will do this by using a small bolt and turning the threads of a short length for the axle. I very much like the process using the 'tap'. I have a good range of these, and in future will use that to create a better drive cog in particular, but also a more correct worm as well.] cheers Pat
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