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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Those eccentric pins are a great idea Wefalck, certainly better than a normal pin. I also like the idea of the former you use - clever idea for those sorts of parts. cheers Pat
  2. Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc. I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'. The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do. Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high. The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched. The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into. I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'. The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned. The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm). The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily). The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached. The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently with the tension held by the drum brake. My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck. cheers Pat
  3. Thanks for the likes, and Roger and Denis for your very kind remarks. cheers Pat
  4. This will be one-stunning model Michael. I love the detail and quality of the work. cheers Pat
  5. Very nice work GL, a very nicely detailed cross-section. cheers Pat
  6. Vossy, Hobby Tools Australia in Melbourne stocks K&S wire and posts out very quickly cheers Pat
  7. Nice work Patrick, that is looking very good! cheers Pat
  8. If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good. cheers Pat
  9. Dave, I think AOTS had cleats on the inboard part of the bowsprit instead of belaying pins? Nice job on the additions. cheers Pat
  10. cheers mate; appreciate your compliment. cheers Pat
  11. Great to see you back Mike; hope to see your updates soon. cheers Pat
  12. That's looking very good Vossiewulf - very crisp work. cheers Pat
  13. As Mark says, nice to see the shipyard back at work again Gaetan. Very clean work. cheers Pat
  14. Thanks for looking in and the comments Carl, Mark and Patric - much appreciated. Now to attack the circular skylights, that is going to be a bit of a challenge but only 4 to make 😨 - . cheers Pat
  15. More of your excellent work Ed; that rigging looks really good - love the colour of your running rigging. cheers Pat
  16. That looks very good Rob, the level of detail at the scale you are building is excellent. cheers Pat
  17. Looks pretty good to me Dave; rope still appears proportionate to the buoy size even if a 'tad' oversize. cheers Pat
  18. You would never of known had you not tried Rob. One day a new idea may 'pop-into your head' but for now we will enjoy the sails you have done. cheers Pat
  19. Another small update folks. This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted. I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes. There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area. Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me. The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones. I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life. Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight. These were only fitted when required. The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion. cheers Pat
  20. That should be a very nice 'home' for her Rod. Something I amy do with my nxt case is add some 'strip' leds around the inner bottom edge for better lighting. cheers Pat
  21. Quite the crew and dignitary ensemble you have there Steven; they look good and far superior to anything I could carve. As you say, the more practice and times repeated certainly improve skills. The pseudopation is coming along very nicely also. cheers Pat
  22. Lovely work Doris on the model and the dolphin support stand; and thanks for sharing the process. cheers Pat
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