Jump to content

Glen McGuire

NRG Member
  • Posts

    1,837
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Glen McGuire

  1. 28 minutes ago, Knocklouder said:

    Is it in yet!!!  Frist Mate wants to know lol

    Yes!  I just finished posting the video that your First Mate requested.  

     

    Apparently I am unable to build anything with greater than a zero margin for error.  The insertion process went pretty well, but it took a while.  The oars and tips of the stem post were scraping along the neck of the bottle as I pushed each half of the hull inside.  I ended up bending a few of the oars but they can be straightened without too much difficulty.  


    I got the hull pieces in pretty quickly.  The time consuming part was getting the rigging threads out of the way (while making sure they did not slip into any of the small epoxy blobs) and then lining the hull pieces up and pressing them together.  The whole process took about 10 minutes but felt like an hour!  Long video link below.   

      
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqDFXTSlX2s&t=116s

     

     

     

    Screenshot_20230207-085503_QuickPic.jpg

    Screenshot_20230207-085556_QuickPic.jpg

    Screenshot_20230207-085919_QuickPic.jpg

    20230206_110818.jpg

    20230206_110856~01.jpg

  2. 1 hour ago, Javelin said:

    but do you recall any heating of the epoxy inside the bottle? Did it turn the bottle (at least at the bottom) warm? 

    Hey Javelin, unfortunately I don't know if it heats the bottle up or not.  After I pour the resin in, I do not touch anything for fear that I'll slosh resin up the sides of the bottle where I don't want it.

     

    I like your idea of doing a test run on the process.  Let me know what your results are.

     

  3. The rigging is complete.  With only 1 sail, there are not too many lines.  However, the split hull and separate insertion will make things quite interesting.

     
    I’m using black thread for the stays and shrouds.  The Oseberg has a fore stay and back stay.  The back stay is tied at the top of the mast and to an eye pin at the base of the stern post.  The fore stay is also knotted at the top of the mast but runs thru an eye pin up front and will act as the pull thread to raise the mast.


    There’s 1 shroud on each side.  The port side shroud is tied to the top of the mast and to an eye pin on the bulwark.  For the starboard side, the shroud is tied at the top of the mast but runs thru the eye pin and all the way out of the bottle.  


    I’m using tan thread for the braces and clew lines.  They are affixed similar to the shrouds with the port side tied securely to the mast and eye pin on both ends, while the starboard side is tied off at the mast but the other end runs thru the bulwark eye pin and out the bottle.  


    All of the starboard side rigging runs thru the eye pins and out the bottle because the starboard half of the hull will be inserted after the port half is already in the bottle.  Rather than trying to thread those lines thru the eye pins inside the bottle, they are threaded outside.  As I push the starboard side of the hull into the bottle, the lines will run thru the eye pins.  Once both halves are inside and joined together, I will pull the lines tight, glue them to the eye pins, and cut off the excess.  


    That is the plan, anyway.  Next post will either be the thrill of victory or the agony of defeat! 

     


     

    20230206_091839.jpg

    20230206_092609.jpg

  4. On 2/1/2023 at 4:51 PM, Ian_Grant said:

    Phenomenal work at that tiny scale, Glen! That shot of the whole ship is amazing!

    Thanks, Ian.  Just getting back and catching up on all the action I missed on MSW the past week.  We lost power on Tuesday during the great Austin ice storm and just got it restored yesterday.  Never seen this much tree damage my entire life.  We have mostly live oaks around here which still have all their leaves.  So they accumulate a lot of ice (and weight). 

  5. The resin finished curing, so I was able to figure out how much the oars could extend from the hull and still fit inside the bottle.  I got all 30 oars installed and gave it a test.  The tips of the widest oars just slightly scrape the inside neck of the bottle.  Perfect!!

    20230131_220726.thumb.jpg.9d13e5f323561c5416ab105edd023045.jpg

    While working on the mast, I realized that my original plan of stepping it into the hull while inside the bottle would be extremely difficult if I wanted to rig shrouds, stays, and braces.  So I went back to a hinged mast which I will affix to one half of the hull before insertion.  I've still got some thinkin' and figurin' to do on the rigging plan because of the split hull.  Not exactly sure how I'll pull that off yet.

     

    For the sail, I wanted to display another iconic look of many Viking ships - the Mr. Peppermint jacket sail with red and white stripes.  I cut strips from red shirt fabric and slightly off-white muslin and glued them edge to edge with fabric glue.  I was not sure how sturdy the edge to edge connection would be so I decided to add a hand sewn, modified zig-zag stitch to make them a bit more secure.  I glued a bolt rope around the edges and also added a stitch to help secure it as well.

     

    20230131_081724.thumb.jpg.dae82e8bcb6a82e9f612e820f0bac599.jpg

    20230131_144810.thumb.jpg.167843c1df510d51a3188b139b52f00c.jpg

    20230201_092506.thumb.jpg.f9c0ebf833f33a3728198e0cc78a20a4.jpg

     

    20230201_092609.thumb.jpg.13ad1aec347ad57b4d98c2a72beaaccb.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

  6. 55 minutes ago, Knocklouder said:

    Sorry Robert did not mean to Hijack your thread.

    I'm glad you posted on Robert's thread.  I would have never seen his work if you had not.  

     

    Robert - really cool project you've got going here.  I had no idea that there were metal model kits like this (and only $25 - wow!).   Very nice work so far!

  7. I was quite ready to do some easy stuff after those dang shields, so I hit the oars and rowing benches.  The oars are made from .5mm brass rods.  I cut 30 of them into 5/8” lengths and smashed the ends down with some pliers for the paddles.  Then I painted them a shade of brown.  I drilled holes for the oars in the hull between each shield at a downward angle so the oars will point towards the water.  I won’t install the oars into the hull until I get my water in the bottle and see how much room I have to work with (i.e. how far to let them stick out towards the water).

     

    20230126_213117.thumb.jpg.404749a339fb0b700743b93817fd60b8.jpg

    20230127_202041.thumb.jpg.e75f5e16b72742b27cb1d9f6966c273d.jpg

     

    Next up were the rowing benches.  I took a 1mm x 1mm walnut strip, cut it into 3/16” long pieces, beveled one edge to match the curving angle of the gunwale, and glued into place.  I also added the mast step.  It is glued to one half of the hull and overlaps the other.

     

    20230128_155405.thumb.jpg.4888044fff7546af19c26d8572b7b180.jpg

    20230128_201542.thumb.jpg.677c474587786860de7449e9081cfc53.jpg

     

    Finally, I added epoxy resin water to the bottle.  It looks like I got sloppy and drizzled resin in the neck of the bottle.  For once, however, that was on purpose.  Since the bottle will be tilted a bit towards the Kraken’s mouth (as if he’s trying to drink the ship out of the bottle) I thought it would look better to have a little water in the neck.

     

    It will take a couple of days for the resin to dry, so now I will begin work on the mast, yard, and sail.

     

    20230128_201713.thumb.jpg.8941fcbc29014b55086499d268fda99a.jpg

     

  8. 4 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

    Amazingly, you seem to have positioned the punch exactly right to have the pattern centred properly - not an easy thing to do at all

    You are right again, Steven.  I quickly realized the difficulty you describe after doing a few practice punches.  So I took a hi-tech approach and used a sharpie to mark to mark the tip of the punch at 0, 90, 180, and 270 degrees to line up with my crosses.  Once I did that it was a breeze!

  9. Looks great - especially the sewing job on the sails!  Your first mate deserves a promotion!

     

    Regarding the water, please avoid my Hannah build log for ideas.  You do NOT want to try what I tried.  Epic fail.

     

    My preference now is epoxy resin for the water's base with a touch of acrylic paint dabbed on top (after the epoxy dries) for texture.  If you look at page 5 of my build log for the Independence (link in my signature below) you can see some pictures of what I do with the resin and acrylic paint. 

     

    The resin also works well for just a thin layer of water.  See my build log for Zheng He's Treasure Fleet for an example.  My bottle for that build had 3 bulbs and the resin was a different thickness in each, and super thin between 2 of the bulbs.

×
×
  • Create New...