1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Beautiful...you will never go back to planking any other way. 

Is there another way?

A lot of images going into  my " How I want things to look " collection...

Are the bulkheads on the MS kit bass or plywood?

I have found my 5/32 plywood to be pretty robust, and those cross pieces seem strong to me..  

I broke this one with a little thumb pressure while sanding.

Have been working on the skeleton and some mini projects, including the anchors and the cannon, that I will be documenting soon.

Other things to look forward to are the capstan, binnacle and long boat.

Here is the rough bow filler.

Smoothed out.

Counter and stern filler.  I find it easier to work with layers rather than one big piece.

Getting close to a final shape.  Starting to anticipate the run of the planking.  The MS plans have some very detailed planking info, which I find very helpful , but I am calculating my plank dimensions based on the larger scale and what I feel looks good based on some other models.

I will be double planking because I want to finish with some cherry veneer I have.  I'm laying this first plank even with the gun deck so I can get a foundation for setting up the gun ports.

I need to get something going with the bulwarks to make it harder to break off those bulkhead extensions.  I have only broke one so far, but I see it happening again.

Something that made laying that first plank a little easier for me was to use these little pieces to butt up against while the glue set.

I also split the plank up into two pieces instead of using the the typical full length plank, which I have done before, following most kit instructions.

I find the long planks unwieldy, particularly on a longer model like this. I may use more than two pieces at times as the first layer continues.

I apologize if I came across as being critical..  You have a great build going that I am following.

I was just offering an observation.

FWIW, The stack on that binnacle does not seem to be documented anywhere, nor does it appear on any contemporary models that I am aware of.

What we have seen are vent holes in the side of the cabinet..

A bit of discussion here.

John McKay's AOTS shows 12.

Goodwin also shows 12 on Blandford.

While I agree it's a nice jig, something with variable spacing/size would be more useful..

9 hours ago, Jaager said:

We have wooden houses and many other wooden objects that are at least hundreds of years old.

Most of the wood in those houses and objects is not on the order of .5 - 1.5mm thick

If you want to build it, I think $75 would be a fair offer.  You might mention the the wood is probably dry and brittle and may need to be replaced to be able to build the kit.

Many a good model has been built with just the kit parts.  No one, me included, didn't know any better.

Use the kit parts as a starting place and refine what you can..

Please don't cancel the parade.  The rain was just a pop-up thunderstorm..

Hey Dave, at the risk of raining on your parade:

This simplified drawing from Mondfeld shows a basic anchor design for the 18th-19th century.

Note the two halves of the stock have a gap when viewed from above.  This design seems to be prevalent

in multiple sources that I have.

Here is a drawing from 1797 found in Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War

15 minutes ago, Dave_E said:

If I were to “bash” the anchors, what’s the recommendation for wood?

The basswood that comes in the kit should work..  There should be  a little extra square stock. or use scrap  sheet stock from the laser sheets.

You might experiment with some dye or stain to get it looking the way you want.

Final version of the stem I plan to go with.

I changed the scarf pattern a little compared to the earlier work I posted.  The upper stem was probably constructed of more pieces, but I decided to not

go to any additional work that would be obscured by the cheeks and other head work

  I added a seat for the figurehead.

Just for fun and practice, here is an AYC stem I made.  I'm going to have to base a project on that stuff some day.

Those are some generic balusters found in a lot of kits.  How do the dimensions match up with the 'scaled' drawings on the plans?

You could use some square stock to make something like Ian's pic, without a lot of trouble.  I think the Mamoli parts are a fair compromise.

Making every detail look like the real thing sort of negates the purpose of building a kit.  It's not a realistic goal.

If you run short of those balusters, I'm sure I have a few of those in my stash I would be happy to share..

I love the color of your AYC, prticularly in the 2nd shot..   I have saved that one and it is my standard now..  If my work doesn't look close to that-tear it off and start over..😁

I hope the lighting doesn't change it much..  Of course it may darken some with age, but you are achieving an exceptional finish.

Have I misread somewhere that you are using boxwood, and not AYC?

Something that makes you go " Oh wow " when you are copying the plans and building  your own.

A little redesign after running into issues with the backbone ver1.0.  I will be updating my log soon.  The scrap pile is growing

Here is a chart that will print out to scale.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/Suren Ultra Scale Rope Size chart.pdf

P.S

In the future, you might consider not following through with a butt joint when it involves a very short piece of blank.

Without anything else to go on,  you lost your symmetry somewhere..

So, you lost your mirror image..

This has happened to me before.

Could be a flaw in the kit design..

Something to keep in mind next build..  I don't think it is a big detractor in an otherwise good build so far..

let me see what I can see

Do you have a close-up of this area.  I would like to see if I can sort out your mirroring problem..

I have three different Dremel tools.

This one is easy to hold and has very low torque..  It usually stops before doing damage..

Dremel 2050

With all Dremel's  I would recommend the three jawed chuck..

Keyless Chuck

Doing a lot of prepping & planning in the background, wondering how helpful or informative it might be to include it in the log.

Does the MS kit provide any pre-shaped fillers?

I took the plans and made several 1/4" pieces to build up the counter filler.

Glued them up..

Did some early finishing off the frame. Have a pretty good match to the plans so far.   Will see how  things fair up as the build progresses.

It looks like a beveling tool rather than tapering, and would work with very small bites.

I see the angle of the blade ( flat ) as a design shortcoming.