Gregory

Nice work.. FWIW, timberheads are extended frames, Much more robust for belaying than cleats would be.

What's affordable ? Here is a 1:24 model of a Yawl that might be a basis for your 4th boat.. Falkonet F0503 Four-Oared Yawl XIX Century $150 This 1:24 Sailing yacht come in at $800 COREL CORSARO II WOOD SHIP MODEL KIT There is not a lot of variety at 1:24 scale that I am aware of. What kind of size when built are you looking for? This information would be useful when looking at kits at various scales.. Common popular kit scales are 1:72, 1:64 and 1:48 .

What kind of budget do you have? The Master Korabel 'Avos' at Crafty Sailor, is a nice kit with very good instructions a very builder friendly design and you will get free shipping at that price point. MSW member and sponsor @etsinko who is the owner of the store has a nice build log where he shows how he did a nice job on the sails. The information could be very useful if you decide to go with another kit. @Peta_V also has a very good build log. Just another option for you. PS Here is a great sail making tutorial that you could adapt to any project.

Do you have another angle of the quarter galleries? They look a lot like the Constitution model and not the United States.. But it might be the angle of your pictures..

Some horizontal planks would seem logical. The diagonal a little more glitzy.. I may have to go with what I like best ..

I never suspected it was made from a single piece of wood. That it why I asked about the planking method. Dziadeczek's solution after Boudriot is a place to start. I wonder if the English might have done it differently. Is diagonal planking a possibility. I'm curious as to what kind of framing underlaid the planking.

You might look here: If you don't have iPhone, not sure what other issues people have.

I had a look at your longboat log and didn't see a clear shot of the transom planked or unpainted. Did I miss something?

Most of the longboat kits have a solid piece for the transom. I assume on the actual boats this would not have been a solid piece and would have been built up with some kind of planking involved. Anyone aware of any references that covers this? I'm guessing some kind of framework with horizontal planks.. Or, would there be some other arrangement?

There was also a drain system installed along with lead sheathing for the ' garden '.. The ' scuttles ' had covers according to AOTS . However, covers are not apparent on the NMM drawings. Seems that covers would be logical.

We also had this discussion in another Bounty log a while back..

Might be a solution here:

I wish you had asked last summer..

Not just you..

A little more info about the kit would be interesting.

How long? If you are plank bending, I would do it until visible moisture disappears, then an extra minute or so... Distance? A couple of inches or so.. Just make sure you let it cool down before unclamping. If it springs back after unclamping, do it again and let it cool longer.

See my signature! 😁 Welcome aboard!

You can also unravel the rope and pull a strand through for starters..

How long are those? Looking in another log, they look a lot like the ones that came with my Resolution. I modified them to look like this, and feel they don't look too bad. I'll show you the steps I took if you are interested.

Vanguard Models has open and closed hearts in sizes starting at 6mm.. They are offered with the 1:64 kits in mind so they should be a good fit..

The planking information and tutorials can be difficult to navigate; there is a lot to digest. Buried in there somewhere is information on how to calculate the width of the planks from stem to stern. You should determine how many planks are needed amidships then measure the available space at the stem and sternpost. You would then divide those spaces by the number of planks amidships, and that would tell you how wide the planks need to be at bow and stern. Typically the planks at the bow would need to be tapered to half their width or less. At the stern they would need to be wider, and that is where stealers would be used To avoid the planks being to narrow at the bow, you would utilize drop planks. This illustration from Mondfeld calls the drop planks stealers, but the principal is clear. I have not seen the " English " method used at the bow on any plans or models, so Mondfeld may have the terms switched. Allan's example above is like that shown on the right side, labeled " Dutch" Note that 12 strakes have been reduced to 8. It looks like at this point you would need a lot of drop planks to fit your amidship planking into the bow area. I may not even be doable without having planks that taper to a point. You will have to decide how you want to proceed, which could involve removing some of your existing work.

FWIW, Lavery in " Arming and Fitting etc.. " describes the SB/DB, with no mention of SB/SB..

Depends on the material. I think water based dyes would be a problem with polyester. Natural fibers should be OK.. I have used alcohol based leather dyes successfully with polyester.

P.S. Checked, and see that Chuck used .012" = .3mm for ratlines on Cheerful at 1:48 which would be .576 " full size.. Close to 1/2 " and looks good. .008 = .2mm is the smallest size Chuck sells.

I would be surprised if the typical ratline were bigger than 1/2" diameter =12.7mm.. At 1/64 = .198mm Sryen's .008 = .2mm would work at 1;64 Probably not done to scale for most projects. When all else fails, go with what looks good.. Smaller is better.