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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Gregory
    You might look in on the Winchelsea build. It would be similar.. How much is going to be visible when the build is complete?
  2. Gregory
    In this topic, Chuck said: Hard to argue with that..
  3. Gregory
    I suspect Chuck sold thousands of feet of the stuff. We should have some feedback on the sag factor..
  4. Gregory
    I feel like the baking tones that down somewhat..
  5. Gregory
    How much time? Isn't just bout any material going to change with humidity if it is not sealed in some way?
  6. Gregory
    Thanks for checking it out and reporting back.
  7. Gregory
    Here is an image I found.
  8. Gregory
    What kerf are you looking for?
  9. Gregory
    Why do they have to be metal?
  10. Gregory
    The one on the right is looking good.. Just take care to remember the holes are square, so the battens should be shaped to make that happen.. I'm not sure what the pluses and minuses are for the increased tooth count.. Someone with more info would have to chime in..
  11. Gregory
    While I am well aware of the qualitiies of boxwood, the cedar has more of a glow. I look forward to seeing how it ages.. I wouldn't want to wait 200 years for the boxwood to take on the amber look that looks so well.😁
  12. Gregory
    Allan, I think Don is looking for a source.. Do you have one? I would be interested also.. Thanks
  13. Gregory
    I get the cutting blades from Malco. On my last orders a few months ago, they have required $100 minimum order. I don't see any thing in the 200 tooth range. I know I have made super fine cuts with teeth in the ~100 range. Byrnes also sells blades Not sure about the arbors, but they also sell arbor adaptors.. For the gratings look for a thickness that suits your job.
  14. Gregory
    At that scale, and with all the fittings and deck furniture, I don't think the center line will be all that obvious. However, I understand how that sort of thing can eat at you.
  15. Gregory
    Have you tried changing the file extension to .STP and see if Tinker can see it? You might consider installing the free version of Fusion 360, import the STEP files, then export them in a format TinkerCAD can use.. Meanwhile you might want to up your game by playing around with Fusion360..
  16. Gregory
    While you are here.. Have you heard of Meshcam ? While it targets CNC users, it is a very powerful tool for refining STL files.. It is not free, but some might find it a worthwhile investment. Here is a demo video of what it can do.. Meshcam Video
  17. Gregory
    Do you mean Blender ? Blender seems to be more about 3D animation rather than creating objects for 3D printing. Fusion 360 might be more of a go-to for parts creation. It's free for hobbyists.
  18. Gregory
    I'm revisiting this in response to the original post. There was a discussion about staining/dyeing boxwood where it was agreed boxwood doesn't take some stains very well. One or more people mentioned dyeing with an alcohol based stain. I proceeded to get some Fiebling's dark brown shoe dye to experiment. It actually worked pretty good to make my boxwood blocks darker. I had thought, and mentioned above, that I didn't think synthetic/polyester would take dye very well, with the idea that it was like trying to dye plastic and wouldn't stick. Well, I was wrong. On a whim, I dyed some of my home made polyester rope with the above mentioned dye and it really worked pretty good. Top is before, bottom is same rope dyed. ( Please ignore the unravelling.. That happened before I baked my rope.. ) Getting the color you want could take a lot of experimenting, and have a lot to do with the color you start with. For home rope makers, I see it as a way to avoid getting different colored thread for standing and running rigging.. Find a good light color you like for running rigging, then dye it dark for the standing.. Note: The dye can be very messy, but it cleans up pretty easily with alcohol, depending on how long it sits before you get to it..
  19. Gregory
    When I described extra bulkheads, they don't have to extend to the backbone like the original framing. All you are looking to do is fill out the outer profile to provide a surface for planking. Just add what amounts to shims to the edges of the existing bulkheads. Create as many layers as you feel necessary. It is a lot like adding blocks, but laminated so you can reduce the amount of shaping needed.
  20. Gregory
    I would use bass. I personally wouldn't go for a solid fill. I would add what amounts to several additional bulkheads, using maybe 3/16 -1/4 sheet. Use the plans/existing bulkheads to interpolate the shape..
  21. Gregory
    I'm going to toss this out here.. I can make what I feel is very acceptable model rope.. However, I do not think I want to go into the model rope making business.. If someone has a particular project, with details in color and size, I would enjoy working with them to provide the rope they need. The cost would basically be postage and materials. I do not have the space to create 20 foot lengths like Syren used to do. It would be more in the 4 to 5 foot range. Of course, I could provide as many 5 foot pieces as someone might think they need. I never made anything for my own use that was more than a couple of feet. No one line in a project was ever longer than that. Send me a message if you would like to discuss this or get a sample..
  22. Gregory
    The gun ports outside the forecastle and the quarterdeck are on the weather deck. Port lids would serve no purpose..
  23. Gregory
    Are they going to be visible on the finished model?
  24. Gregory
    Interesting how this keeps getting lost or ignored in the discussion..
  25. Gregory
    Like these: Watch Old Parts Gears Wheels

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