Gregory

Do you have a snip from the plans?

Is the point where the bowsprit  is mounted visible on the completed model?

The video is episode 18.  I posted the link in the post above..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKFi-mjYzgE&list=PLGC1fmQp8LDsu0EKRM9nen3HqOzD8Y3F2&index=18

For the first planking I would use 1/16 x 1/4 bass like this:  MODEL SHIPWAYS BASSWOOD STRIPS 1/16X1/4X24" 12 PACK

I will try to find you an example of the grain issue..

On 9/14/2020 at 8:51 AM, ronald305 said:

I  decided to remove 4 of the stern planks on both sides and  will remove  the cardboard shims as well and will start over 

                          Ronald 

Do your plans include body lines similar to this?

It might help to cut out templates and check the shape at the indicated stations.  This would make sure the shape of your hull is correct.

You should be able to soak your planks and get them to bend to follow the bulkheads/frames.

Let them dry in place before gluing.

When you bend your planks, watch how the grain tends to rise.   It will often want to rise in one direction more than the other.  Use the bend that creates less rise..

You said the video does not help, however he is showing how to bend the planks.  I do not believe there are any other instructions that show it more clearly.

Here is  someone building the Modelspace ( Artesania Latina ) Victory on YouTube..  I jumped to episode 18 where he is doing the stern planking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKFi-mjYzgE&list=PLGC1fmQp8LDsu0EKRM9nen3HqOzD8Y3F2&index=18

Here is a log that shows a nice progression for the planking.

What kit is Modelspace Victory based on?

Thunder's image of Victory above, and this image of Mark's Vanguard is typical of what you should be seeing on your model..

Here is another view.

The bending is not that extreme as far as a lot of kits go.

Is this a first planking you are working on.  

6 hours ago, starlight said:

I have reworked the hatches so that the gratings are now flush with the coamings.

A lot of kits  ( not yours ), have gratings ( the openings )  that are way over-sized to the point that a foot would likely pass through.

Us naïve would be ship modelers didn't have a clue.... 

13 minutes ago, starlight said:

• I installed my gratings slightly recessed into the coamings (as opposed to flush or proud). I don't have any historical reason for this... I just thought they looked better that way.

 

Then, your little sailors will be tripping over your recessed gratings..😁

9 hours ago, catopower said:

Though it's not perfect,

It has it's shortcomings, but I had to get a lot deeper into wood ship modeling before I was aware of that.

I came across it in the library before I built my first wood model, and I found the Vanguard on the cover to be mesmerizing.

It is the kind of book that can get young people hooked..   Just try getting them hooked with Steel as a first book..😁

I was just thinking, if someone had the information, they might share it, instead of sending the questioner off to a source that might, or might not, have the information they were looking for...  Maybe David Antscherl could share.

Here is a plan from the book :

The Frigate Constitution and Other Historic Ships

by F. Alexander Magoun

On 10/16/2020 at 12:22 PM, Roger Pellett said:

Allen,

 

Several year’s ago David Antscherl published an excellent article in the Nautical Research Journal about a model of Mayflower that he built based on original period shipbuilding documents.  If you have not already done so, I suggest that you order a reprint from the NRG office.

 

Roger

Did the article have the capstan information?

Has anyone mentioned blade height?

I wouldn't have the blade height much higher than the final thickness, and also at low RPM..

If you decide to glue them, just some white glue in the hole should keep them in place, but allow for easy removal if you need to later..

Meanwhile your cutter is really looking great!

Just found this in another discussion:

36 minutes ago, WalrusGuy said:

...should the coils be oriented in a clockwise direction?

What sources could we check in this regard?

Someone mentioned AOTS, which is 32-Gun Frigate Essex (Anatomy of the Ship, which would be the best source, depending on your budget.

Not cheap, but Googling shows copies for less than $50..

While there are those who would argue the details, the general arrangement of the Constitution might be an option.

There are lots of resources for Constitution rigging plans.

21 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Really? I didn’t think CA needed a porous material as it is often used for metal bonds (I understand epoxy is another choice). Now PVA on the other hand I’ve always heard needed a porous surface.

It may not always be the case, but I have never found CA to work well on, say, two varnished surfaces unless they were roughed up.

I have had success with laser char as long as the loose stuff was removed.

CA needs porous material to work well.  If the char is preventing penetration of the grain, it might be a problem.

Have you checked out the pricing at  Cornwall Model Boats ?

Even after shipping costs, the price can be very competitive..

I've been  told the flat coils might have been used for inspection, but not on a working ship.

I have never seen a contemporary model or illustration with  the coils.

Here is what you see on brig Niagra

Another method is called frapping, as seen here on Victory.

I think the coils are a modeling convention from who knows where.

In the end, it is how you choose to present your work.

1 hour ago, mtdoramike said:

Where are you going to put the already together hull? It ain't going to in a 30x8x4 box, the original kit box maybe. 

I was just putting that out as an example of what it cost to ship USPS.  Did you see the part about:  

Quote

While your actual numbers may be different,

But thanks anyway, for your help...

I think that ringbolt may be for when the gun is mounted on a rolling carriage.

These carriages only swing from side to side, and are moved and secured by the tackles that are shown.

Have you considered US postal service.

I have shipped large packages with them Often.   ModelExpo uses USPS and Chuck at Syren does also..

While your actual numbers may be different, I calculated a 30x8x4 inch package at 5 pounds  from VA to CA would cost $26.70.  2-day Priority..

Postage calculator.

48 minutes ago, Gahm said:

Therefore I would adjust the location of the ring bolt on your model.

Which ringbolts are you referring to?

The carronade carriages are fixed on pivot points and do not move backward from the bulwarks.