Gregory

I believe it's common to do as much as possible off the boat ..

Of course, shrouds and stays will be done on the boat, having attached as much related hardware, blocks, eyebolts etc. before mounting the masts.

Most of the rigging for the yards can be done off the boat..

There are many good examples in the build logs.

FWIW, I like the AYC ...

I apologize.  Just realized my link to Tower Hobby shows back-ordered..

How about this:

It could be refined a little bit, but this was about a 10 minute effort with my Proxxon FET, a little filing and sanding.

9 minutes ago, BobG said:

 they didn't fit the imperial size strip that I was using

That's when you make your own strips..😁

If I may?

Latina Micro Shapers No.1

On 8/19/2020 at 8:16 PM, Sheerline said:

Would it be better to buy sheet and spile them or would that make them look a bit wide compared to the rest?

Very nice work so far!

Spiling might be something to consider at this point if you feel up to it.. 

Have you looked at Chuck's bending techniques? 

For the stern just a small increase in width at the stern post for most of the planks is hardly noticeable, as seen here for Chuck's Cheerful. It would only require slightly wider strips, tapered from the stern forward to midship.

 For the bow, you might consider a drop plank.  There is only one on Cheerful.

Whatever you decide, it will be good experience for you.

46 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

Unfortunately I don't have a Byrnes saw, but will be using a Proxxon fe

Edward,

I recently replaced my old microlux with an FET.

I'm still getting familiar with it, but all of Glenn's tips work as well with the FET.

I haven't determined if there is increased clearance at the rear of the fence, but it should be easy to make that happen.

The micrometer-like fence adjustment on the FET is very precise and allows for making fractional mm adjustments.

Hopefully you will be able to get a fine tooth .030 or 0.20 kerf blade for plank ripping.  The included carbide blade is good, but wasteful..

Looking at their instructions I linked to above, it doesn't look like a kit I am familiar with..

It may be a re-packaged Constructo kit.

It's definitely their own plans.

It looks like the 1927 configration..    The actual plans for the 1927 restoration are available.

 Model Space would probably take the prize for that..

3/32 = 2.38125mm

I get ~2mm for 8 inches..  2.5mm = ~9.6 inches.

40 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

The Thurston I-292, .030 kerf slitter blade. I understand Thurston is out of business, I’m sure there are equivalents if you can’t find one.

FWIW, I've used the .020 and .030 from Malco with very good results..

The pricing is competitive but they currently have a $100 minimum order..

While I agree with Jim Lad,  I think a model without sails looks good with just braces and lifts..

It's a matter of personal taste regarding how you want to present your model.

For you, it could be a snap shot of the ship in dry dock before all the rigging was taken down..

I thought we had three for a while now..   BlueJacket = 1812, Mamoli = 1927 and ModelShipways = ~contemporary ?

Am I wrong about that?

P.S.

The Constructo kit appears to be 1927 also..

You can see the Model Space instructions here:  Instructions

It looks like an original kit based on the present configuration..

FWIW, the guy who owns Lauk Street Shipyard , doesn't seem to have a problem with pirated ship kits from China..

Have you considered replacing the strips with black cardstock and just using glue?

You can simulate fasteners with drops of glue that are painted.

2 hours ago, tonyplante said:

I can't even get email responses from Model Expo and others.

Have you tried jgarcia@modelexpo-online.com ?

I always get prompt replies from him..

How did you feel about the cost at the time?  How does it compare to BlueJacket's pricing today?

On 8/9/2020 at 10:48 PM, Jaager said:

One blade company that we use has gone away recently, so for blades, more variety is better and a backup for the ones that are really used a lot. 

Malco is an excellent source for blades, although they do require a minimum $100 order..

28 minutes ago, Liam said:

the plans show a 1 mm wire to be used with no loops of overhang

That 1mm wire represents part of the carriage structure..

It doesn't look like the kit provides the various eyebolts and hooks that would be part of the gun tackle..

You would have to procure those from other sources..

Here are some carriages from DocBlake's Blandford.

There are tables somewhere that would indicate diameter/circumference or whatever. but in modeling I go with what looks good.

Here is an example from Victory.

Out of proportion rope and tackle would be distracting..

I think the breeching rope on the cannon in my signature looks too small.  

I would change it, but the model is no longer in my custody..

The 1/4 poplar boards you can get at Home Depot are pretty decent..

Good to hear you got a saw.. 

One of the small one's?  Byrnes or other?

I have been happy with the cherry from ModelExpo ..

They have some 1/4 square..

Of course, if you get a saw, cutting from sheets will be a better value..

FWIW, I have found this adapter to work with the 1/2" arbor on Malco blades and the Proxxon FET

Saw Blade Adapter

Malco  has $100 min order requirement, but their 3 " .02 blade for $15.43 is a lot better blade than the Proxxon branded blades..

Looks good to me..

You do have an empty quote box at the bottom of all your posts.

It looks like space reserved for a signature, with no signature information..